quick Q concering procedure for trans removal

hi,

When removing the transmission completely, must I remove the rear break reservoir and drain the system or is there someway to keep system intact?

Roy

Just remove the claw and the hose clamp on the swingarm and tie the lot off on the frame.

hi,

Sorry for being so thick but:
1) By "claw" do u mean the entire "thing" that is over the break disk?
2) what should i do then about the break pedal and piston on RHS footpes assembly? should I take this assembly completely off like the LHS one?
thank you,
Roy

Hi Roy,

1 - Yes
2 - Yes, and then use a piece of rope and hang it all off the frame so you don't need to remove the reservoir etc.

Hi mate,
Yep just hang the whole lot (brake caliper, reserve, foot peg mount ect...) on a bit of string from the frame. Dont drain the the brakes. Dont drain the gearbox unless you have to work on it, but beware that it has to stand 'upright' or there will be oil leaking everywhere. If the gearbox is coming off, it seems a good idea to replace its seals, front and rear, which are as cheap as chips, but have caused me real trouble when i did the same job to replace the clutch last month. If it is the clutch you are working on, replace all the spinning bits, find the BMW marks painted on the edges. Set it all at 120 degrees and, hey presto, no vibration. Well none for me.
Cheers
Boris the Bike

Boris the Bike,
Makes a profoundly important point, if you are going to the trouble to get the gearbox off it is worth doing the seals as the box has to come off to get to them so it makes sense on an old bike to do them whilst you are in there.

Similarly well worth greasing the clutch actuating lever mechanism which attaches to the end of the clutch cable and drives the clutch push rod.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Hi Roys, Just as K. Bike says the clutch actuation stuff outside the gearbox, from the clutch cable to a pivot rod that runs on tiny little roller bearings, are very exposed. Not a good bit of BMW design which gets well knackered, then it just siezes. If you are down there in that part of the bike have a look and replace if worn. Again, like seals, not very expensive but well worth it. Take care getting the pivot rod and bearings out, it is easy to snap the alley crank case lugs off. I did!! Heat is the answer. Heat and WD40 lub oil. Check the outside rubber boot as well, this holds a spring inside under a little tension, if worn it will fail to hold the spring and also leak a little oil. The pivot bearings are a bugger to get out by the way. Good luck . B.T.B.

Hi,
thank you for the advice.
Sorry if Qs are so naive (dumb?) - I have never done any mechanical work before so even small things go slow; - i will look at scheme and try to identify the seals and their numbers.
only yesterday eve i remove the swingarm and am seeing relevant area better.
I have some trouble connecting between the verbal description in technical english like "alley crank case lugs " and what i see - a pic (or bmw scheme with mark) pointing this out will be very nice.

meanwhile it seems my driveshaft rear splines are about dead - so here is one more unexpected expence.
Roy

Hang in there Roy. Big job you have taken on. See if you can get a mechanic friend to help as you work. Two brains really are better than one. Take your time and dont panic!!! It will work. Getting the thing apart is the very hardest part. Don't worry to much about things like 'torque' settings and finer mechanical details, it is a solid engine and using your own COMMON SENSE goes a long way.
This is what happens once you start a job. You just find more to do... Just look at it this way. The bits you find broken were needing fixing and once each bit is done they will be like NEW. Feels great, and the difference to riding the bike is massive. Boris te Bike.