does anyone have a reference or diagrams concerning the Clutch cable nipple holder fix? This is to keep to keep gravity from pulling the nipple holder down and creating an un even rotation while pulling in the clutch. Trying to keep the new clutch cable strain free. Just replaced the clutch cable and the nipple holder due to a breakage in this same spot. Thanks

I can't recall this being mentioned anywhere.

I had a look at mine and the tension on the cable keeps the nipple (oooh I like that word...) holder in place with no chance of dropping.

Anyone else out there heard of this fix?

Unknown problem to me, on my oldest K I`ve changed the wire one time in 25 years.
And the reason wasn`t that it did break, but just being stiff to operate....after 15 years in service.

If the nipple (ooh yes) falling down by gravity, the spring in lowest end of the cable
or the one at the pushrod piston have breaked off or lost it`s tension.

Inge K.

The spring has tension and it seems to operate correctly, it just seems to fall a bit in the lever hole after several pulls on it. I saw somewhere mentioned on this site about a fix for this. I have adjusted the cable exactly as laid out in this forum. If you have any ideas please let me know. Thanks again for the help.

Don't understand some responses. A properly adjusted lever has a bit of clearance (clutch 2 to 4 mm clearance) and therefore no continuous pull on the bullet. The issue mentioned is well known, relating to the possibility of the bullet to drop in the holes in the handle in its free position. This is a progressive problem as with each incremental drop the holes wear unequal further. Some have fitted a ring with a little bolt/screw to keep the bullet from dropping to prevent the unequal load and therefore fraying/breaking of the wire at the bullet. Once a handle has unequally worn holes you better replace it, as the 'bolt with ring' fix only works with limited wear.

It could be that this is a well known issue, but unknown to me after 25 years/ over 200K km with the same bike.

To me it looks to be maintance related (or lack of). The specified clearance should be 4mm at the opening in front of the lever, and the strength of the springs would normally keep the wire in tension on the upper bullet.

This also depends on that all other items related is well lubricated and moves freely: clutch lever and pivot screw, bullets in both ends, needle bearings at release lever and a wire without kinks.

Just my thoughts.

Inge K.

When the clutch is properly adjusted, the small coil spring inside the rubber boot at the back of the gearbox keeps the cable in tension, which keeps the handlebar lever against its stop. The initial pull of the lever opens the 4mm gap at the handlebar before the lever at the back of the gearbox makes contact with the push rod to operate the clutch. If there is any stiffness in the bearings in the lower lever then the small spring inside the boot will not be strong enough to keep tension in the cable, and the handlebar lever will be slack for the first few millimeters. You should be able to pull the handlebar lever easily with one finger for the first 4 mm, and when you let it go it should snap back against the stop. If it doesn't then either your cable is incorrectly adjusted or is sticking, or else the bearings in the clutch arm at the back of the gearbox are seized.

good point avenger

I am going to have to make sure the cable is adjusted correctly again to see if I missed something. The lever is pulled against the stop when let out. When pulled in slightly it is semi easy to pull then gets more tension on it when engaged. The clutch seems to perform fine but I notice after several pulls that the bullet drops inside the lever a few millimeters and you can literally push it back up with your finger when the lever is not pulled in. I just replaced this cable and would like to prolong it's life expectancy. The previous cable broke right at this bullet area because the old bullet which was replaced showed signs of a flat spot and old greas which had hardened and kept the bullet from moving forcing the cable to bend and thus break. Can you use lithium grease on the bullet? It seems to me that the bullet does not rotate as freely as it should but I am not an expert. Maybe the lever is worn unevenly.

"The lever is pulled against the stop when let out. When pulled in slightly it is semi easy to pull then gets more tension on it when engaged." Yep, that's how it is suppose to work.

Lithium grease is ok, I use bearing grease. Grease it every six months or so (the lever end as well as the "arm" on the other end of the cable).

Indeed check the clutch lever for wear in that area. I think that's where you'll find the problem.

Avenger is spoton here, I battled with the same problem, then changed the clutch arm bearings( bought from a local bearing dealer, half the price of Bins).Clutch feels brand new,
I have been advised not to lube any part of the cable, so don't go there.

Oh no, don't lube the cable, just the end bits (I didn't want to say nipples, as I know you lot will go all silly...).

Oh yes,, it does bring a tremor to the lip

If you have the barrel dropping at the grip it normally indicates wear and quite often uneven, which forces the barrel at an angle and shortens the life. However it will break when it drops so far that it only holds in one of the holes. Drill a little hole next to the lower hole in the grip and fit a little screw with washer that holds the barrel up. Should give you a lot longer fun!