Dear All, recently I had the misfortune of the the rear shock mount stud failing. I believe that this is a fairly common problem. My dilemma is whether to get the broken stud removed by professional engineering / machine shop type people (who can bugger it up as well as I can!) or have a go at it my self.

My thoughts at the moment are...get a spray can of "cold"...drill an appropriate size hole down the middle of the broken stud, spray in the hole the "cold", and at the same time use my heat gun to heat the area around the stud without damaging the seals in the FD, and with the best quality "Ezy-out", simply unscrew the broken stud.

If any of you out there have had a similar experience, I would really appreciate your thoughts on the matter.

Rick G has v.kindly given me a super hi-tensile replacement stud.

Thanks, Rickmeister.

Should function good, if it`s not to much corrosion.......
heat the housing,,,cool the bolt,,,insert the extractor.

I saw it at Bingara and I reckon it will come out fairly easily with some cold and an easyout

yep sounds the best way inge ...

you should be able to predrill the stud to the right size ulrick ...bang the easy out in a little bit to get some bite happening, then go put the whole thing in the oven for a while ...100 deg c ? then bang the easy out firmly home ...or as deep as you dare ...apply your freeze to the remains of the bolt and the easy out (should hold the cold better for longer ....then install your tap handle and wind the stud out ? it sounds sooo simple (but never is ) ...

good luck mate !!!

Once the stud is removed, do not throw it away. I believe that we should use it again....as a symbolic trophy to give, for safe keeping, to the person with the worst luck getting to a "meeting" of forum members. I wonder how many times it goes around to each one of us.

I am a bit late reading this post but I'll offer this advice gained from many years experience removing broken bolts and studs.

1. Select from the junk box a nut at least one size larger than the stud to be removed .

2. Place nut over broken stud and weld to the stud . This is best done with a mig welder , with stick avoid slag inclusion , easier said than done .

3. Apply spanner to nut and unscrew .

Heat from the weld breaks the bond of the threads and / or the Loctite . In 12years experience at a general engineering bus i never once used an eezy out ! In fact we never had any apart from the broken remains of the old set .

Yep! The bloke that removed the broken stud did exactly that! Managed to weld a nut onto the broken stud and then simply unscrewed it. What intrigued me was that the stud was broken about 2mm below the surface of the casting. He actually welded a v.short piece of ¼" rod between the nut and the top of the broken stud.

Have kept the broken stud (on Stan's suggestion) as a trophy for future failures.

Rickmeister.

Only problem with bad luck trophy is it has to happen on the way there and both times something has happensd to me or Marg it has been on the way home and it surely would have won if on the way to the meet. One was a broken shock stud and we were by the side of the road in western Queensland (the outback good and proper) for 3 days waiting for a spare drive to arrive.

Now as someone who has yet to break said stud ( knocking on wood like a thing possessed) do I carry out a premptive strike and change it out now?....before it breaks...and should I get a high tensile M12?

I'm with you Mr.Klompy. Why don't we get the details of where the high tensile bolts are available, if anyone knows. I.d change mine straight away, and we could have the company spare tucked away somewhere in the tool box.

There you go...I am not paranoid.....( just because I am paranoid does not mean they are not out to get me).

I do believe its a M10 x 60 so will go shopping unless Rick can recommend an alternate direction to go?

Personally I like to fit the new bits in the comfort of a dry workshop and take the unknown quantity item as an emergency spare.

What I would use is a machine screw (has thread all the way to the head) with enough thread, 60mm (you will probably need to buy a 75mm screw). The thread is 12mm x 1.5 pitch. Get a metric equivilant of a Grade 5 High tensile which is 8.8, DO NOT get a Grade 8 which is 10.10 they are not meant to take the lateral load and WILL snap like a carrot and DON'T use a stainless it WILL also snap but probably take a little longer.
If someone at a bolt supplies place tries to sell you anything else or the bolt is unmarked just walk away.
The original stud is mild steel and using a piece of booker rod (continuous thread) will do the job but change it each 20000kms to be on the safe side. I have heard if them breaking at under 50000kms.
Until Margs K75 broke one at Tambo in 2007 I had never heard of the problem but on telling a few people about what happened I started hearing about it. If I had known about it I would have replaced the studs ASAP. Fortunately hindsight is 20/20 and I fixed it after the fact.
The red one is the correct one

Just got a price from Buttsworth Engineering for one metre of 8.8 tensile M10 threaded bar for $15.00 would get about 15 units from one length.

I will get a length cut it into bite sized pieces and pass them around at K get togethers.......see you there.

For those not fortunate enough to live in Australia I imagine the cost would be similar if not even cheaper.

update....turns out they quoted me the more brittle 10.10 version and are having difficulty getting the 8.8....mmm back to finding bolts and cutting the heads off.....

Klompy...I think you'll find that the stud is 12mm, not 10mm diameter.

oooops meant M12.....

Be cautious screwing it in as the hole goes all the way through and it could touch the crown gear resulting in another disaster.

In UK....

http://www.margnor-online.co.uk/165m12x1-5px60.html

Klompy the grey brick wrote:In UK....

http://www.margnor-online.co.uk/165m12x1-5px60.html

That has a rolled thread and I certainly would not trust it and the thread looks a bit rough. Also it has not got the usual markings on the head, I will bet its a Chinese made glade 8.8

Chinese made glade 8.8[/quote]

Yep you sure have a good eye Rick ...will keep looking around..I have had some bad experiences with Chinese hardware.

I guess 28 years from a bolt is pretty good....whats the chance it will let go in another 28 years...how old would I be then!!!

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0514&mospid=51754&btnr=33_0637&hg=33&fg=10

I Too have had this happen.. I was lucky enough to find it while not on the bike.

Long story short.. I was going to the first meet up at Urunga and Nicole got her hands badly hurt at work a day before..So I stayed home with her. That night while i was supposed en route to Charlies place in city traffic..I set about unpacking the bike..sat down on a drum for a man sulk looking at bike and thought that shokie dont look right and gave it a little tug..IT CAME OUT IN MY HAND!!!!! The stud had broken off.
I keep it handy as reminder to just give things a good check now and again..

How many K's had she done...the bike of course......at that time

Not sure...original odometer not working at 170,000 km..

Rick, are you suggesting cutting the head of the new bolt off and then place a nut over the shock bottom , as normal? What about just using the bolt itself, with the head, and bolt the shock to the drive? Some form of Loctite needed, which one would you recommend?
I hope to get a couple of new bolts today......my red bike will be 30 next year, 400,000 kms and I know that I have not replaced it in the last 13 years...not sure the history prior to that. I was the first of us to get to Rickmeister after the break............not a thing I want happening to me.

Cut the head of the bolt and use it as a stud with a nut and loctite it into the drive housing.

how many do you need ?

DIN939 M12x60

Albyalbatross1 - Just a thought but the thread on that stud seems very worn where the shock absorber mounted. Like the shock was moving around on it.

I wonder how much of this problem is due to shock loads caused by a loose lower eye banging up and down and work hardening the stud.

I'm just off to check the torque on that nut and paint mark it.

Zoneinfuel - I think that design would be better, it gives a good flat area for the eye to bear on.

zonenfeile wrote:

how many do you need ?

DIN939 M12x60

Hiya Olaf;

My wife would groan to read this but I think thats a work of art, and I would agree would be much stronger than continuous thread...how many do I need one would be great although to carry a spare in case I met a stranded K100 would be good too...happy to pay for the postage and cost Olaf...let me know to sydney Australia....perhaps others would be interested here too and get a job lot????

They certainly a very poor piece of design work. I made 3 studs to replace my K100, K75 and a spare which I gave to Ulrich.
They were out of a very tough piece of 3/4inch hexagonal jackhammer shaft. I left a 3mm wide hex piece so it could be tightened against the housing without going in too far and enough out to get the shock a washer and the nut on it.
You need to be able to tighten the stud in the housing without having the shock and nut on the stud that way it can't work in the thread when the shock has the load comming on and of and changing directions.
Some have had success by making a longer stud and using a small outside plate that sits against the housing to help distribute the load when the shock is compressing, it did help quite a bit.
But to fix the problem properly it needed to have the casting modified to have another support on the outside of the lower eye.
BMW just seem to dig their heels in with some things and refuse to acknolege that anything is wrong.

where´s the prob to order the org. stud at your local dealer ?

Part no 07129908096 used in various BMW´s



or contact your local screw dealer

as mentioned before: DIN939 M12x60



but.. if someone sends me a ticket .. I might be willing and able to

The problem Olaf is the genuine stud is a piece of crap.

Rick G wrote:The problem Olaf is the genuine stud is a piece of crap.

crap after 25 years ?

in 6 jears as brick-owner and flyingbrick member i´ve never heard of that kind of problem - is that specaly local a "down under" theme ?

usualy all BMW items are top quality.

and mostly the crap is not caused by the material but the user/owner

I am not going to argue with you but simply stated a FACT.
I dare say there are many things you have never heard of and if you care to examine one of those studs carefully you will find they are mild steel and as I stated previously the design is very poor and not up to the usual standard one expects from BMW.

Went looking for replacement bolts yesterday and it would be a special order to get some. Apparently that size, pitch is not a fast seller., plenty of bolts...but no set screws...with the thread all the way. Just out of interest I stopped at an engineering place and was advised that I should get normal, high tensile bolts...correct pitch etc., and they would cut the head off and the cut a thread and leave a solid section.....as in Olaf''s photo.
I will check out costs today.

Sounds good , please do keep us informed.

Further discussions with a mate who has an engineering firm. His advice is to ride the bike into his workshop and he will cut some high tensile steel and using his new lathe put a thread on both ends of the rod, leaving a section without thread for the shock....total time about 15 minutes.
The downside is that this will happen next year as he is flat out repairing farming machinery....still harvest time here and in the 30 minutes I was there 3 farmers came in with broken bits...one said that it costs him $4000 a day for the machine to be out of action.

Tell your mate to get his priorities right, tell him you might be off the road,OFF THE ROAD. That trumps some fuddy old farmer with a crop to get in, surely.

Bob, I could be getting things pretty cheap and get a few extras for others. I had words with him already after he saw the orange bike and said unkind things about old blokes and bikes. You are absolutely right though.....we bike riders take priority...at all times.

Stanley my good man, if it's ok with you, put me down for two please!

Funds will be sent after pricing is discussed!

Tell them to use the 4 grand on a good K100 and go for a ride and stuff the crops.

RT wrote: That trumps some fuddy old farmer with a crop to get in, surely.

Beware of angry/mad farmers, with heavy harvesting equipment............it`s a lot bigger than a K.

Inge K. wrote:

RT wrote: That trumps some fuddy old farmer with a crop to get in, surely.

Beware of angry/mad farmers, with heavy harvesting equipment............it`s a lot bigger than a K.

But nowhere near as fast

Hang on Rick, one of my tractors can do 33km p h. When I bought it, it was road registered and I was driving it home on the highway.A large number of motorists were not happy in the 110 zone as there was no area for me to pull over to let them overtake.
Blakey I will let you know next year. Any others?

ainsjac wrote:Hang on Rick, one of my tractors can do 33km p h.

You daring fool don't you know that speeds like that can kill a man. The ones watching die laughing.

Inge K. wrote:
Beware of angry/mad farmers, with heavy harvesting equipment............it`s a lot bigger than a K.

Acouple of years ago,on a ride out from a sidecar rally, we met a combine harvester coming towards us along a single track road. Thirty outfits, without reverse........... he had to give way. (I don't think he was too pleased!)

Paul.

Paul....some farm machinery is easier to move than others. We have 2 tractors as we have a "hobby" farm. One tractor is 35 years old and the old one is about 50.The old one has no power steering and this can cause difficult maneuvers in corners, especially with a plough on the back. I have had to disconnect the plough in order to turn..not an easy job by yourself in hot weather. We care for a total of 215 acres, over 3 sites and our place grows rocks....don't need for too much water, not soft rocks.....those basalt ones that enjoy getting wedged in under machinery.

Stan, my tractor moves quite easily........under it's own steam.........or on a trailer behind the K.



Paul....................... How did we get from rear shock studs to tractors?

Good point Paul, I think I may have been the spark for that, yet again.
Stanley my good man, ask that kindly engineering fellow to whip one up for me please in the batch. Might have to do a studs run for Dubbo. Are there any other studs in Dubbo, my wife asks?.
RT

Do wall studs count? The biggest stud I can show her is Charles the bull.
Another order for next year...no problems.
Having a steam powered tractor is very "green".....no diesel needed, although I have come across many machines powered by kerosene. Paul you are ahead by going back to the past. My "shock" on the tractor consists of a sprung seat, with many cushions. It reminds me of a bucket seat in cars...depends what size bucket you have.

One for me too please !

Ta Ainsjac

JR

Melbourne Australia