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K100 RS Re-spray on Wed Sep 23, 2009 4:41 pm
Paul
active member
Just wanted to let you know my experience and the outcome of my K100 Paint Job. If it is of any interest I used one litre each of primer-filler, Basecoat and Clear coat the primer and clear were a 2 pack system. Initially I found it difficult to find a supplier prepared to sell to me, a non-professional. Did eventually, materials cost £150.00
including a 3m Respirator half mask, the technical data will tell you to use a full face visor with independent air supply,as the paint contains toxic Isocyanates ,check this out for yourself as there are dangers.
I used a ABAC 3hp compressor and added a filter to catch contaminates water and oil which you definitely don't want in your paint. the gun was a cheap Clarks suction fed model with 1.4 nozzle, have to say it produced a very smooth finish @ 40psi. Next time will invest in a decent, used DeVilbiss.
Preparation of panels is key and a good range of wet and dry paper, i used grits 240,400,600,1500,& 2000 ,any chip,dent, oil and grease mark is going to cause problems or look bad on fresh paint if not properly dealt with and will involve a lot more work to correct after painting the primer will deal with very minor scratches.
Mixing; Primer 4 paint -1 hardener with 10% thinners apply 2 or 3 coats, this covers and levels off well. Basecoat 3 paint -1 thinners ( I used a good thinners here which I also used to clean the gun) applied 3 coats allowed drying between coats which I finally flattened with 1500 grit paper, I've read this can knock out the metallic but worked ok for me, finally Clearcoat 3 -1 with 10-15% thinners also minimum 3 coats ( Ist coat thin and allowed about 20 mins drying for better adhesion of following coats and reduced risk of runs. for final finish I used 2000 grit followed by Rubbing compound and finally a quality wax polish. I got a lot of pleasure out of this project, and the satisfaction is enormous. This is most of the stuff I wanted to know when I started so hope this offers some help
including a 3m Respirator half mask, the technical data will tell you to use a full face visor with independent air supply,as the paint contains toxic Isocyanates ,check this out for yourself as there are dangers.
I used a ABAC 3hp compressor and added a filter to catch contaminates water and oil which you definitely don't want in your paint. the gun was a cheap Clarks suction fed model with 1.4 nozzle, have to say it produced a very smooth finish @ 40psi. Next time will invest in a decent, used DeVilbiss.
Preparation of panels is key and a good range of wet and dry paper, i used grits 240,400,600,1500,& 2000 ,any chip,dent, oil and grease mark is going to cause problems or look bad on fresh paint if not properly dealt with and will involve a lot more work to correct after painting the primer will deal with very minor scratches.
Mixing; Primer 4 paint -1 hardener with 10% thinners apply 2 or 3 coats, this covers and levels off well. Basecoat 3 paint -1 thinners ( I used a good thinners here which I also used to clean the gun) applied 3 coats allowed drying between coats which I finally flattened with 1500 grit paper, I've read this can knock out the metallic but worked ok for me, finally Clearcoat 3 -1 with 10-15% thinners also minimum 3 coats ( Ist coat thin and allowed about 20 mins drying for better adhesion of following coats and reduced risk of runs. for final finish I used 2000 grit followed by Rubbing compound and finally a quality wax polish. I got a lot of pleasure out of this project, and the satisfaction is enormous. This is most of the stuff I wanted to know when I started so hope this offers some help
if you want it he he. i,m not that good at this type of thing so if interested then mail me
not really