I have persistent leak from the oil filter hatch cover although it takes several weeks to drop 200 cc of oil.
Started when i did a filter change so today I removed the circular plate, cleaned it, tried to ascertain if the seal was still standing sufficiently proud ( and it seemed to be) of the plate. 
But it's got to be the seal - right?

can you get replacement rings.?

I've just got an order from motobins and have got a spare set of K100 fork seals if anyone has an emergency and needs some.(44200A)  Likewise 2 spare sets of brake pads (22800). location Lismore.

Sounds like the little bolts holding the plate aren't tightening up properly, or you are using an after market filter that is a bit too long. There is some concern about Ryco 418 which Supercheap have been selling being a tad too long, not letting the plate get tight enough. Or the little bolts have been tightened too much and stripped the thread, I did that once and it was a bugger until I found a replacement sump plate.
When you buy a BMW filter from Munich motorcycles in Pert, you get a new rubber. I have a heap here if you
want one.
RT

You get a new O ring for the circular cover and new sump plug crush washer when you get the BMW oil filter. However lots of us reuse the O ring. Remove your circular cover and take the O ring out of the groove and clean the groove, mating surface and the O ring. That might possibly cure it. if not a new O ring is needed. Drain the oil to a clean container and you can reuse it but if its few months go for new oil and filter. It is possible to crack the ears on the circular cover if it is wrongly tightened up. 

If all is ok after your change today you can leave alone but put a new O ring on next time. its worth buying spare O rings and crush washers if using non BMW oil filters.

Despite the savings I have never been a fan of non 0EM oil filters. i didnt realise that about those Ryco filters. The bolts don't need to be overtightened either.

had a similar issue


changed the screws In the sump cover ...I had put in a different brand as replacement thinking they would be good ...the solution was to change to another brand of screw ...which appeared to have more metal in the thread cuts ...od that may sound  but honestly that leak is gone with the change .

likewise the seal area should be cleaned properly time to time and the seal changed periodically...there is some merit in trying to tighten up the screws in  a staged manner ....don't go for one only done up full tight ....take them all up to near firm ....then work around torguing up a little tighter each time


good luck

Tks for all that stuff.
Have been buying aftermarket filters so didn't know about getting a new ring when buying genuine filters.

If you could spare a sealing ring RT, 'I'll return when i next get a new filter.

Incidentally - don't buy SAKURA filters. They don't fit the filter tool and just get rounded corners on them when you try and take off.

No- the filter is not too long and the bolts are not failing to tighten.

My bike had a oil leak when I got it.
Turned out previous owner had used the 3 filter cover bolts on the sump and 3 of the sump ones on filter cover. Theres a big difference in lengths.

RT wrote:Sounds like the little bolts holding the plate aren't tightening up properly, or you are using an after market filter that is a bit too long. There is some concern about Ryco 418 which Supercheap have been selling being a tad too long, not letting the plate get tight enough. Or the little bolts have been tightened too much and stripped the thread, I did that once and it was a bugger until I found a replacement sump plate.
When you buy a BMW filter from Munich motorcycles in Pert, you get a new rubber. I have a heap here if you
want one.
RT

I have been using Ryco Z418 filers for near 10 years without any problems.  The only time I had any problem was when the old O-ring stayed behind and when I put a new filter on it was too long.  They don't fit the OEM removal tool but I put a thin strip of aluminium about 0.5mm thick and 20mm wide inside the tool and jam it on and it has worked all but once for me.

Dave you may be able to get an o-ring from a local supplier like Ongmac. Its 88x3mm
Sounds like its been squashed too many times and needs replacing.
Cheers

Tks Nigel,
Will have to drop the oil again and unbolt the cover. Will take the ring with me to Ongmac but wouldn't surprise me if not in stock and has to be ordered in. Where do you get your filters from and do you always use aftermarket ones?

Do you see that i have spare brake pads and fork seals sitting here if you need some.

I bought a Mahle from MotoHansa in Sydney $24. The wrench for that is $16. They have a flat $10 freight
Apparently the Ryco Z200 fits as well but I've not used it. Was going to try that one next time. They're pretty cheap from Supercheap Auto.

You could try North Coast Bearing Supplies and Hydraulic Equipment & Supplies both in South Lismore for the o-ring. When you take the old one out check if its flattened.

Re Pads and fork seals. Thanks. I'll keep that in mind. Cheers

The Z200 is a fuel filter for a VL Commodore which is what I have bee using for ages

RicK G wrote:The Z200 is a fuel filter for a VL Commodore which is what I have bee using for ages

Sorry... I meant the 418

Werewasi....next time you place a order at Motobins, get some gasket kits too.

gaskets for what ? The oil filter hatch O ring?

werewasi wrote:gaskets for what ? The oil filter hatch O ring?

Probably no.3 and 5 from here:

http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated_catalog2/MicroList.aspx?id=51709&catID=&catname=&bindName=Oil%20Pan&bindCat=11_4677

tks 

I used to think that the filter hatch cover would go on only one way i.e. 3 bolt pattern was such that it would only attach a certain way. Now I'm not so sure and the hatch cover is now fitted with the ribbing running north/south.
I was working with the bike on the floor rather than on a lifter and my knees are bad, so with the cover in my left hand and the bolt in the right I didn't want to spend any more time than was absolutely necessary shagging around. 

What's the story?

Check that it is not warped and hasn't got any gouges or high spots, put a new O-ring and bolt it back on. If it still leaks then send me a PM and I will send you a good one from my collection.

werewasi wrote: . . .  the hatch cover is now fitted with the ribbing running north/south.

What's the story?

Correct. The lines on the hatch cover will match the rest of the plate

I just had a look in the o-ring kits at work, and grabbed a few of the ones that fit in the groove. Thanks for the tip on the Ryco filter Rick, I knew there had to be one for it. Top Two got me some Hi Flo ones for $17 each, so I'm right for a while.

Tks Rick,
i'm sure the hatch is Ok since it didn't start to leak until I removed it for a filter change. Got to be the seal and i think Bob in Sydney is sending me an O ring. 
Have a couple of Sakura filters to use up first before I get a genuine (with o ring supplied)

Sakuras are cheap but...........

All you guys were right about the overheating and coil breaking down. Has not happened again because the days have not been 35C.

I used KandN  part number KN-163 oil filter. Its got a bolt head on the bottom for install. No special tools required.

Supplier?

price?

werewasi wrote:Supplier?

price?

I got mine locally.
Google and they are everywhere. Amazon 

http://www.amazon.com/KN-163-BMW-High-Performance-Filter/dp/B000E28CBS

Had the same problem here after I did my first oil and filter change. It wasn't the bolts, because I replaced the OEM ones with same length stainless allen bolts and it wasn't the filter, because that was OEM. The plate wasn't warped either (I checked it carefully with a straightedge and a flatplate) and the O-ring was new. The sump face area was pristine - no gouges and no dirt. LFB just insisted on dripping intermittantly whenever she was parked up - most days she dripped, some days she didn't. Next oil change I lost the rag (Irish expression for 'got really pissed off with it') and refitted the plate with another new O-ring and a thin smear of gasket sealer around the outside step and the O-ring and I've done the same ever since. No more drip.

I have to agree that the solution suggests that the filter cover is slightly warped. I should have scraped it with engineer's blue but I didn't think of that at the time and I've only just thought of it now. Maybe at the next filter change...

A word of caution on K&N oil filters. I tried the KN163 oil filter on one of my Oilheads twice and each time when turning the tacked-on 'nut' off using a box-end spanner the nut twisted right off forcing me to have to jam a large screwdriver into the guts of the filter to get it started. Old black gold gushes. I torque the oil filter to the spec. It never happens using a traditional fluted design oil filter. I reckon there are better for the money.


K&N