If you look in the Portal page, in the electrical section, there is a link called electrical diagrams. Opening that will reveal an interactive diagram set, where you can select individual circuits. I would start there and follow the live and earth runs with a multimeter.

Mike

Does the clock in the cluster work?

Is the ground cable attached to the left side of the transmission near the shift lever?

Moore152 wrote:No power to dash, lights, starter, anything, no relay clicks, regardless of key on or off, like there's no battery or circuit at all. 

-triple checked connections on battery and under tank, everything is tight

-Bypassed ignition (key) switch a long time ago, I twisty tie red and green when i want to start it

Check under the seat. The electronic fuel injection control plug might have backed out enough to lose contact. If so, clean it with DeoxIt, plug it in tightly and be certain its latch is holding it in position. Check the condition of the wires at the tight bend  that emerges from that plug.

Other than that, try using a better quality twisty tie, or induce lightning to strike it.

First thing is to see if your meter shows 12.8 volts between the + terminal on the battery and the ground point above the shift lever.  If there is, connect the negative terminal of the meter to that ground connection.

Then start at the battery + terminal and check for 12v at each point where the power is transmitted through the bike.  With the ignition turned on pretty much any red wire will have 12v on it.

Next thing is to check all the terminals on the fuse block.  Pull the fuses out and stick your meter probe into the socket.  A bunch of them get power from the battery.  I suspect that is where you will find the best clues to your problem.

duck wrote:Does the clock in the cluster work?

Is the ground cable attached to the left side of the transmission near the shift lever?

I came back the next morning and saw this shifter ground wire disconnected and sitting under the battery tray.... I was almost too embarrassed to followup. Power is on, thanks guys.

onto the next issue but I'll keep the same thread.

It took 20 seconds of cranking to fire. Runs smooth for a few seconds, then roughens up, then starts audibly/visibly knocking unless I hold that starter button to add fuel. Dies immediately on throttle, unless i warm it up like this for a minute at idle w/ the starter button, then I can barely surge to 4krpm but usually dies. No oil smoke. It's running lean it appears and I want to limit testing until I think I have a solution.

It's starting up quick now...but it randomly failed to start yesterday, so I am immediately suspecting the 35 y/o jetronic "computer" or its sensors. I press that stupid "ecu" connector in every time I try to crank it, even if it looks good.

OEM fuel pump and injectors were replaced 1yr ago as they were seized
This is a new but very cheap domestic fuel pump for Fords....it could be bunk...but it ran the bike 2 years ago
I need a fuel pressure tester, but the fast starts and random no start, plus stories here, are leading me towards jetronic...wisdom will be much appreciated.

Holding the starter like that points to the FICU under the sat...or more likely the plug connector to it is disturbed, not plugged in properly or pins need cleaning.....

Meh, we're all human and do stupid stuff.

I once spent an hour and a half tearing a K75 apart trying to figure out why in the hell it wouldn't start only to remove the gas cap and discover that the tank was empty.

And then there was the time I changed the oil on my K1100RS.  Once I'd refilled it and was finishing up I saw the new oil filter that I hadn't bothered to install was sitting on the ground by the front wheel.

I had problems with my K100. I bought an Autel PowerScan PS100, it can test individual circuits as it is powered from the battery. It can check fuses and it can be reset if the circuit blows.
I thought it was expensive until I started using it, I found a broken wire hidden inside the loom.