My fan comes on relatively quickly and is almost continuously on with the overheating light coming on regularly as well.

I have flushed the cooling fluid/radiator with the two stage flush, changed the thermostat, checked level and even checked to see if the pump was actually running (it does when I kick the engine over) and am starting to wonder a bit where to look next. This has suddenly come on after changing the butterfly valves and readjusting all cables after renewal. Renewed the spark plugs and spark plug cables. Engine adjusted with motionpro mercury sticks and it is running OK. I have noted an increased engine sound (as if yourshaking a steel plate with nuts) from 3000 rpm.

Don't know what would be the best step next. I'm not loosing cooling fluid, level of the crank case is not increasing. Guess I could look at the valve adjustment, but nothing has changed on that from earlier. It seems the bike is suddenly using more fuel, but the exhaust looks good (not soothy)

I could have suddenly developed a leaking head gasket, but would expect to loose cooling fluid.

Anyway, open to suggestions! Thanks!!

I remember that you had some electrical issues with your bike. Did you find what was the problem?
Are you certain that the bike is overheating or could it be one of the electrical gremlins living in your bike?

Could you ride the bike to any good mechanic owning an infrared thermometer? Your fan should start when the engine is 103 degrees Celsius.

Have you checked the water temperature sensor?
This affects the setting of the EFI (consume more gas if the sensor is bad) and also affects the temperature switching unit (Red light an fan)
It could be a simple as a bad ground feeding the temperature sensor.

Remember that I could not idle under 1100rpm?
Today I followed your advise and untight the screws of the tps. the idle when down to 850rpm. You were right! The tps was preventing the throttle body to close.

Bert, thanks for that. Sometimes you don't see the woods for the trees and you draw a blank. I'll have to look further. Changed the temp relais and the thermostat and the result was the same. I have a gauge on it now, will have to see if it is indicating OK. I will remove the sensor for the gauge as well as for the ECU and test them. Just had a bad day as I had flushed/cleaned and was obviously full of wishful thinking when I took it for a spin today. I like my RT but I'm really done taking the fairing down and having to fit it again!

Hi Rene,
Definitely check the temp the rad is at when the fan and light kick in, the simplest test I can think of is to dribble some water on the rad and if it instantly boils you know the temperature is 100 C or over. If it does not flash off into steam the rad is not at 100C+ whatever the overheat light says. I take it the oil looks OK and has no milk shake appearance? If not you are not mixing water into the oil. A blow into the rad is a possible that would pressurise the rad almost immediately and should be detectable.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Hi, regarging overheating ¿is the bike spiling coolant by the reservoir? normaly real overheating causes that, check the radiator cap gaskets, wen the internal (small one) fails, coolant goes to reservoir and temp raises.
Best regards
JAP

Japuentes, muchas gracias amigo, but no, no overflowing etc. That would have been to much of an indication for this old marine engineer.

Ok let us know, best regards
JAP