Hello all,

This is in regards to a 1992 k100rs (16valve).  As I get closer to graduating college and going on more long trips (camping etc), I'd like a bigger windshield.  I've looked in to windshields like the aeroflow, laminar lip, etc, but none of em really give me that "damn that's cool" feeling.  I'd love to put an LT upper fairing on it, and am wondering if it's even possible.  As far I know, here's what I would need:

k1100LT upper fairing
K1100LT touring dash
A windshield for said fairing
I can likely use the RS inner side fairings still
I can find a way to mount the fuel / temp gauges somewhere
Some LT bars, because I also want the riding position
-due to LT bars, a longer brake line, and I can splice some wire in where needed for controls
-longer throttle cable?

From what I've seen so far, the 16v k100 is basically a k1100 that's got a slightly smaller engine.  This is why I'm saying I'd use k1100 fairing etc etc.  Is this an accurate assumption, or does it even matter if I use k100LT fairing vs k1100LT fairing?

Am I missing anything?  Is this even possible, or am I barking up a tree?

Anything is possible, they say.

I think that it's more work than it's worth. You'd be better off selling and buying an LT. Unless you can find someone locally who wants to do the reverse swap.

I was thinking the same thing, but I looked on eBay and found mostly everything I'd need and I'm probably looking at around $300 USD total for the change. I don't see it as a ton of work, maybe a fun weekend in the garage.

I would sell and buy a k1100LT, but I've done so much work on this bike and it is running flawlessly, something I'm sure I wouldn't find unless I bought brand new.  Also, with the cost of parts and labor (when I end up takin it in), I think I'm the event I sell this bike I'm going to pick up a honda adventure bike or something.  That said, there's a nice looking k1100LT for sale in my area  .

shouldnt be too hard

there is a few delux mods for guages on the lt models that i have seen (up on the crossbar behind windshield )

and i dont supose extending the cables would be particually hard

the only question in my mind is the fairing "tree" (bracket that holds the main body of the upper section ) if it is mounted simarly on the k1100 as the k100 ....just a question in my brain .

stronger mid level brackets are easier to make (radiator / frame to lower part of main fairing) and strongly recommended if you are not mating up a full fairing (uppers and lowers ) of the same type   , and keep the whole thing solid as well .
brake line , clutch and accelerator extensions - swaps along with rt bars ? would also need to be aquired 

just a couple of thoughts

sounds like a good plan , much better if you roll your own ....from the big bmw parts bin

good luck

Why not an RT fairing?
No gauges.
Same if not similar riding.
Doubles your chances of getting it cheap (LT or RT)

The 1100LT fairing would probably need the 1100LT front mount at the steering head.  I'd expect the 16v RS still uses the K100RS/RT front mount as the fairing is in the same position as the 8v RS.

I've got a complete 1100LT fairing sitting in the garage with a working screen motor.  Gonna sell it eventually, anyone?

I'm actually thinking I'd like to find a K1 fairing for the 16v RS I'm getting.  Same bike underneath afterall.

Al

charlie99 wrote:

the only question in my mind is the fairing "tree" (bracket that holds the main body of the upper section ) if it is mounted simarly on the k1100 as the k100 ....just a question in my brain .

stronger mid level brackets are easier to make (radiator / frame to lower part of main fairing)

The best way to find out exactly what is comparable in terms of the mounting hardware is to use something like the Max BMW fiche, select the part numbers and then use the search facility to see what is interchangeable.

For example. Part #  46 63 1 450 585 item 17 in the image below:



Looks very similar to the RT/LT support bracket. But a search shows that it doesn't even fit the pre-16v RS (it only fits the 16v and the 1100RS).

(I happen to have a redundant set of minor LT faring brackets here)

Part #46 63 2 309 060 item 10, the main fairing mounting bracket is the same - it fits only the 16v RS and the 1100RS.

AL-58 wrote:

I'm actually thinking I'd like to find a K1 fairing for the 16v RS I'm getting.  Same bike underneath afterall.

Al

Al,

You'll find that there's much more to the differences between a K1 and a 16v RS under the skin. The running gear is much the same (except for the FD) but the packaging under the K1 skin is very different. For example, the radiator expansion tank is much bigger and is mounted in the upper left side of the fairing along with the front ABS modulator here:

Hmm.. If all of it sits in a different place due to the different bracket, I probably wouldn't be able to use my RS side panels, or any of my current fairing for that matter.  I'm pretty good at making things work, but that's a lot of stuff to do and it's getting expensive real quick.

I suppose, depending on how much AL-58 wants for his K1100LT fairing, I could order a bracket and then make the rest of it work as I go.  I had just given up on an electric windshield too, as I was looking at the parts diagrams for it and realizing what a hassle it'd be to find a motor and put it all together.

Just get a K1100LT and have 2 bikes to ride, we all need 2 BMWs don't we? yes I'm sure we do. 

Ahh I wish I could, but alas, that terrible thing we call money.  I can spend a few hundred on fairing, but not 3k+ on another bike.  Which is really too bad, there's a k1100LT for sale near me for $3300 and it's got everything I ever wanted, but I just simply can't.

But seriously, AL-58, I could be interested in that fairing.

I would think that international freight from Aus to US would be a killer for something as bulky and heavy as a fairing.

Al

RicK G wrote:Just get a K1100LT and have 2 bikes to ride, we all need 2 BMWs don't we? yes I'm sure we do. 

Good idea Rick.

I've got 3 red BMWs in the garage and just about to pick up another red BMW.  And I don't like red that much.

Al

I expect the easiest swap is to use a K100RT or LT fairing and that should be easy to find. My K started out as an RS and became an RT at some point. There is no changing of clocks involved. If you are getting the firing with the storage boxes the locks on the lids were originally keyed with the ignition key. For convenience its worth trying to get the matching ignition but not essential. I have a tall screen on the RT and its great in poor weather. I don't think you see much of that in San Diego.........But for heat to avoid overheating yourself make sure you get all of the internal baffles and lower panel to engine gaskets and check that the baffles and deflectors under the gas tank are correctly in place.

The K1100LT fairings sit further forward so many of the components are likely to be very different.

So you were able to just swap in a K100RT/LT upper fairing with no new bracket or anything, just a direct fit?

Side note: what exactly is the difference between the RT bikes and the LT bikes?  I know the LTs are more packed with goodies, but as far as looks, functionality, and which people prefer?

Rabidchiwawa007 wrote:So you were able to just swap in a K100RT/LT upper fairing with no new bracket or anything, just a direct fit?

Side note: what exactly is the difference between the RT bikes and the LT bikes?  I know the LTs are more packed with goodies, but as far as looks, functionality, and which people prefer?

Check this thread to learn more  

Nice, good stuff.
So it sounds like, and looks like, a K100RT fairing would be a fairly direct fit to my current bracket, and then I could use a dash from a K1100LT? See below:

If I could achieve this, that'd be perfect:
Is this the dash from a k1100LT?

Rabidchiwawa007 wrote:Is this the dash from a k1100LT?

Yes it is.
Check on the thread the slight modification to raise the cluster by 1"

Apologies, but let me double confirm.  The bracket on my 1992 16valve k100rs looks more similar to a k1100rs bracket.  It looks just like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-BMW-K1100-K1100RS-FAIRING-STAY-BRACKET-/320912938534?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab7e6d626&vxp=mtr

Are those mounting spots essentially the same as the earlier K bracket?  From a previous post above, I'm under the assumption that my current bracket ONLY works for the 16-valve k100rs and the k1100rs.  This would mean that a K100RT or LT fairing would not fit correctly as those are fitted to the earlier more square-ish and X style bracket. ???

I'm in the sell the RS and buy an LT camp.

Here's why.  The LT electric windscreen is awesome. Lots of electrics your current wiring harness doesn't have.

It will end up being more complicated and expensive than you think.

I certainly would if I could.

I am sure I have seen a screen that attaches to an RS fairing that comes up just as high as the RT/LT. It was on this forum but for the life of me I cant find it.  Maybe that type of set up would allow you to have both your cake and eat it or at least nibble around the edges. You can put bars on an RS that are much higher than standard which may also suit you better with the screen.
It maybe not be the coolest thing but what the hell if it does the job and the people dont roll around the street as you pass.

That's the aeroflow.  It dual-locks on to the existing RS fairing.  I found a full complete working electric screen on eBay for only $60 USD.  I bought it.  I think I'm gonna buy a k1100LT front bracket, and an LT fairing and make it all work.  It's gonna be more than I planned on spending, but I'll make it work.  I think with the LT front bracket I'll have the basis of what I need to do for other supports / brackets.  It'll definitely be a summer project, and I suppose I'll take pictures and such to post later.  Wish me luck! 

FYI: One of the weak points of the LT fairing is that the main bracket has a tendency to crack near the steering head.  Usually not an issue but since some LTs end up seeing more bumps and potholes than others it can make finding a good used one occasionally difficult.

There are also some frame differences but I suspect it's doable.

Ever seen the Parabellum RS windscreen?  Nice because it swaps on and off in a few minutes without using dual-lock or making you drill holes.

That parabellum was the one I was thinking of.

Yeah, that parabellum looks nice.  I've become determined to put that electric LT windshield on there now though.  I found a carrier and complete motor with arms and everything for $60 on ebay.  All I'm going to have to do is make a circuit for it.  Right, that's "all"...

So I'm looking at this thread: https://www.k100-forum.com/t50-mounting-an-electric-windshiel-on-a-k100rt

I have a pretty good understanding of it, but I'm just wondering where to get some of these things.  

When I search for micro switches, I only find switches similar to the side-stand sensor switch.  Nothing that's purely internal with two contacts on it.  I'm also trying to wrap my head around where the micro switches come in to the circuit.  I understand that the relays switch polarity to the motor when the limit is reached, but am unsure as to what the microswitches have to do with that.

The relays should be fairly easy to find, I just need two 15A 12v relays.  As long as they are 15A and 12v, it doesn't matter if they're automotive or general purpose or etc, right?

I fail to see where this "6 pole AMP connector" comes in as well.
I'm also lost on the "SPDT momentary contact"  Is that a micro switch?

I'm also lost on the "SPDT momentary contact"  Is that a micro switch?

Single pole dual throw switch can have a locked position and a momentary on position.....assume with windscreen you would want variable movements rather than all the way both ways.

 The 3 terminals switch is normally a latch which means that the switch can be latched and connected?with either one terminal or another from a specific terminal. It means that you can throw the lever to NO or NC from the C (common or center) terminal and leave it in the position until you want it otherwise. So the label for the 3 terminals is usually labelled with C, NO, and NC. This kind of switch is called SPDT - single pole?double throw to distinguished from the original one which is called SPST - single pole single throw

http://www.amcmotorcycles.com/contents/en-uk/p40601.html

Check this out http://parabellum.com/K100RS-K1100RS-Windshield-System-P6.aspx

Crazy Frog wrote:

Rabidchiwawa007 wrote:Is this the dash from a k1100LT?

Yes it is.
Check on the thread the slight modification to raise the cluster by 1"

Looks like the K75RT, not the K1100LT.

This is the 1100LT;

The instrument cluster on the 75 is mounted on the upper fork brace, the 1100 has the cluster on the bracket wich holds the fairing.

Then what are these 'switches'?  (The ones labelled as micro switches)
https://servimg.com/view/11165681/107

Rabidchiwawa007 wrote:Yeah, that parabellum looks nice.  I've become determined to put that electric LT windshield on there now though.  I found a carrier and complete motor with arms and everything for $60 on ebay.  All I'm going to have to do is make a circuit for it.  Right, that's "all"...  Usually the circuitry with micro switches is on the carrier with the motor and arms, post a photo of the underside of the carrier and we can tell from that.

So I'm looking at this thread: https://www.k100-forum.com/t50-mounting-an-electric-windshiel-on-a-k100rt

I have a pretty good understanding of it, but I'm just wondering where to get some of these things.  Radio shack should have the bits you need or just use change over relays from any auto store.

When I search for micro switches, I only find switches similar to the side-stand sensor switch.  Nothing that's purely internal with two contacts on it.  I'm also trying to wrap my head around where the micro switches come in to the circuit. The micro switches are used to detect the upper and lower limits of the movement and cut power at that point so as not to damage any parts by straining them when they cant move. I understand that the relays switch polarity to the motor when the limit is reached, but am unsure as to what the microswitches have to do with that.
The relays only switch polarity when you choose to put the screen up or down and the micro switches dont have anything to do with that part they simply detect the upper and lower points of movement

The relays should be fairly easy to find, I just need two 15A 12v relays.  As long as they are 15A and 12v, it doesn't matter if they're automotive or general purpose or etc, right?  Yes but they need to be a change over relay so that the polarity can be reversed.

I fail to see where this "6 pole AMP connector" comes in as well.  The 6 pole connector is the connector which is mounted on top of the motor and connects to the wiring loom on the bike.
I'm also lost on the "SPDT momentary contact"  Is that a micro switch?   A momentary switch is one that connects when you push it and as soon as you take your finger off it disconnects or the opposite A SPDT means Single Pole Double Throw switch that is it is single pole means it only switches one leg of the circuit not both pos and neg.  The double throw means it has 2 positions where it makes contact as the switch that Klompy has shown.

Hope this helps

There is a circuit for the screen on the downloads section but it is not drawn quite right (from factory) if anybody has noticed so here is the corrected version.


To get micro switches try this mob I got a new front brake switch for the K1100 for about 1/4 of the OEM price and it is identical. They are world wide. The switch shown is bigger than you would need but I am sure they would have the right one.
http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/microswitches/0320512/?origin=PSF_428118|fp&cm_sp=featuredproducts-_-FeaturedProductsContent-_-0320512

About the windshield microswitches, have a look at This.

Rabidchiwawa007 wrote:Then what are these 'switches'?  (The ones labelled as micro switches)
https://servimg.com/view/11165681/107

Those particular switches have been added to that windscreen assembly because the original unit had been immersed in flood water for enough time to ruin the factory switches on the motor.  This is a repair to get the windscreen operational.  If the windscreen assembly which you have an eye on is fully functional, then you won't ever need to replicate this repair.

Rabidchiwawa007 wrote:I'm also lost on the "SPDT momentary contact"  Is that a micro switch?

The SPDT switch is not a microswitch.  It is a rocker switch with one set of poles, double throw, momentary contact with center off.  The dash mounted window adjust switch is has the following features:

• The center resting position of the switch is off; no contact is made by the wiper with any of the poles.
  
• The action is momentary.  When the switch is pressed and released, the rocker returns to the center off resting position
  
• The switch has one wiper and a pair of stationary poles.  Pressing the switch upwards will connect the center wiper with one of the poles.  Pressing it in the other direction will connect the wiper with the other pole.
  

Any type of panel mounted switch could be used -- rocker, toggle, rotary.  The selection is up to you.  The switch I ended up using was a surplus automobile window UP-DOWN switch.  It had all the characteristics needed, the right markings and fit the hole in the dash.

Awesome, guys, thanks.  I know what everything is but my terminology was severely lacking!  That all helps.

Here are the only two pictures of the bottom of the carrier I have. (haven't received it in the mail yet)

The micro switch is there

The 96 and later bikes had the windscreen switch built into the left combo switch.  I use it for cruise control though as I use that MUCH more than I adjust the windscreen.  I pretty much leave my windscreen down unless it's raining.
\

Nice!  I had suspected that was it after taking another look at it with new information.

@duck, I think I'm just going to wire it to a switch in the dash as my wiring harness doesn't have a spot for that K1100LT left combined switch.  I'd prefer it in the dash anyways as it seems it would be easier to access / work on.

There are two separate connectors for that left combo switch. The connector for the "regular" functions will plug right into your main wiring harness as is.  Then there's another 3 lead connector for the windscreen switch.

The built-in windscreen switch is much more ergo-friendly than a dash switch as you don't even need to remove your hand from the grip to operate it.

Another bonus is that is doesn't burn up a dash switch slot.

In regards to the long metal brake pipes for the front ABS on my '92 K100RS,

Is the front end of the one that connects to the handlebar hose in the same spot as the one on the K1100LT?  I'm just wondering if replacing the brake hose from the handlebar with the K1100LT hose would be a direct fit.  If the metal pipe sits in a different spot on the K1100LT vs the K100RS, I'd run in to problems.

That said, that K1100LT brake hose is $54 USD for less than a foot of rubber hose.  Would it be such a terrible thing to replace all of that metal pipe and hose with a braided steel line that runs directly from the handlebar to the ABS modulator?  As long as it's long enough, I don't foresee any issues aside from maybe rubbing and wear over time.  (fixable with a layer of tape!).  

I really like those venhill brake lines and it'd be cheaper to do it that way.  If this is a sound option, any idea how long of a hose I'd need to get from the high LT bars back down to the ABS modulator?

I don't think that getting rid of the solid metal lines would be a good idea as you would lose any of the advantage you get by replacing the rubber lines with stainless braided or it could even be marginally more spongy.  The stainless braided lines do expand and contract with pressure but not as much as the rubber lines.

An update a few months later:

All is going well.  I've successfully built the windshield circuit, heated grip circuit, and auxiliary fuse block to plug them in to.  The windshield worms took quite a bit of cleaning and lubing to make it work, and I had to fix part of the track slider on one side. Electrically, everything is great.  The radio is next once I figure out where to mount it.

Regarding the fairing, everything else is great there too.  The side panels and radiator cover come in this week.  I had to make quite a few bits and pieces to make everything work right with the RS mounting points and such.  I decided that I wanted to leave the RS version of the bike completely alone.  Yes, I've removed the fairing and replaced it with all the LT bits, but what I mean is that I have not altered the original RS fairing mounting points, brackets, fairing pieces, etc, in order to make the new fairing work.  This way I can just do a quick swap if I want to, or can sell it either way (probably not gonna sell my baby).

Here are some pictures:
Yes, I know my welds look like crap, but they're functional!

Windshield circuit / fixed slider:


Had to add a bit to the new bracket for the hydraulic steering dampener:


Left side brace, just attaches to the RS brace, and is rubber mounted to the fairing:


Right side brace, same idea:


LT mirrors are, for some reason, around $200 on ebay, while the RS mirrors go for around $30.  So I used my RS mirrors and finagled them on.  It's mirror mounted to a rubber piece which is then mounted to the bike.  It looks a little funky and I need to think about it some more, but they're on there and they work.  Also, ignore the sharpie marks on the edges of the mirrors, they're gonna get painted.. someday.  Eventually, I want to put LED's in the mirror lights and have them as running lights:

Right mirror:


Left mirror:


Bike front end:



Aux Fuse block.  I had to move one of the existing relays to the other side of the box in order to make room for the auxiliary fuse block.  As of right now, both the relay that I moved and the relay that I added for the aux fuse block are just sitting in the fuse box not really mounted to anything.  I don't like it, but I can't find a way to fit everything in there and mount it.



So that's it for my update.  Will post a picture when the complete fairing is on.