Point-Seven-five wrote:

Point-Seven-five wrote:.........  The correct wrench makes a big difference.

Saw that and read it Point-Seven-Five but too late in my case to make a difference. Thanks for posting it tho', I'm wiser now.

Quick update. Head off thanks to all. The three stripped ones got drilled out with 8mm then 10mm Cobalt bits from a local hardware store.

It's the great thing about this forum; the quality of the advice gives amateurs like me confidence to tackle these jobs. The responses overnight from around the world were nothing less than I've come to expect but I'm non the less grateful or complacent for that.

Plenty of pics and vids of the internals for those interested in following the thread later when time allows.

Right now I'm off for a ride on the Ducati to clear my head and hopefully find a long reach valve Spring compressor!

Point-Seven-five wrote:

Point-Seven-five wrote:By the way, the heads are not standard Torx but an improved Torx Plus that has a different driver geometry and are capable of higher torques.  Standard Torx will sort of work, but break or strip out the heads when used on Torx Plus fasteners which are under high torque. 

http://www.stanleyengineeredfastening.com/sites/www.emhartamericas.com/files/downloads/Torx_Plus_Brochure_EN.pdf

Just curious, did anyone happen to see this post?  The correct wrench makes a big difference.

Did see it and take note but I would not have benefited as none of mine striped the head but I still cant understand why they would not crack, it just does not make sense to me.

If there is a next time, try using the Torx Plus with an impact wrench.  Unless water got to the threads and rusted them into the block, the bolts should come out quite readily.

Point-Seven-five wrote:

Point-Seven-five wrote:By the way, the heads are not standard Torx but an improved Torx Plus that has a different driver geometry and are capable of higher torques.  Standard Torx will sort of work, but break or strip out the heads when used on Torx Plus fasteners which are under high torque. 

http://www.stanleyengineeredfastening.com/sites/www.emhartamericas.com/files/downloads/Torx_Plus_Brochure_EN.pdf

Just curious, did anyone happen to see this post?  The correct wrench makes a big difference.

As yet, I don't think I have the need to take the head off my not yet run recent K1100 acquisition, but I made a 'note to self' should I need to. I would have presumed standard Torx without this info, so much appreciated. 

Bill

As yet, I don't think I have the need to take the head off my not yet run nib recent K1100 acquisition, but I made a 'note to self' should I need to. I would have presumed standard Torx without this info, so much appreciated. 

Bill

Hopefully not Bill!!!

I bought this one with an exhaust issue which was reflected in the price paid

I'll let the pictures do the talking:

Bores:



Valves/Head:


whole head:


Drilling out:


Grotty Valves:


This one might be the culprit:

I thought there was a bit of a valve missing,it looked like the seat showing but was the clean metal of the valve When I put the video to full screen is not like what happened to mine. In the 1st video I think I see a mark on a piston like it has clipped a valve #2 I think and front exhaust valve, it  may be just an oily mark its hard to tell as the piston is at BDC.
Were the bolts seized in the thread or was the thread clean.

To .75 I tried a 3/4" impact gun and the bolt just sprung with the impact but would not crack. I twisted one to near 90° before the bit shattered and the impact bit twisted but when I used a 18" breaker bar not with the impact gun. Like I said it makes no sense at all and yet when I finally ground the head off the thread was finger tight all the way and clean as you like.

RicK G wrote:I thought there was a bit of a valve missing,it looked like the seat showing but was the clean metal of the valve When I put the video to full screen is not like what happened to mine. In the 1st video I think I see a mark on a piston like it has clipped a valve #2 I think and front exhaust valve, it  may be just an oily mark its hard to tell as the piston is at BDC.
Were the bolts seized in the thread or was the thread clean.

Hi Rick, bolts came out in my fingers. There was some bang when they let go tho' I guess the torque was holding them in.

Those marks on the first piston (if you pause it a second or two in) are oily and sooty. I poked at them before I got the camera out unfortunately and smudged a few but they look like some carbon or soot bounced around in there. I cannot see any visible damage yet. I too expected to see a chunk of valve missing. 

More to follow in a few days once I've sorted valve spring compressor.

RickG:  I used a 3/8" impact wrench.  It hammered on the bolt heads for a second or two before spinning them out.  The only one that gave me trouble was the last one that wouldn't let go.  When I used a breaker bar with a cheater I broke the damn bolt flush with the block.  25 years of water in the threads corroded the bolt into the block. 

The Torx Plus bit even worked in the bolt heads I buggered with a standard Torx before I discovered the correct bit.  Using the correct bit really makes a huge difference.

This job is baffling me, well not the job but the problem.

Just to recap Why I went in there...
I was on a motorway run doing about 6-6500 RMP for 35 mins or so. 
There was the bang, drop in power, drilling/bark noise, off throttle, slowly back on , full power not there, temp climbing, off throttle - freewheeled up motorway exit (Thankfully was right on one). Drove gingerly about 1.5kms into town sounding very sick and very hot.                        
Came home took off exhaust. Confirmed exhaust header #1 completely burnt out. Fitted Remus exhaust with perfect headers, started no bother. Bark still there (see older video in thread).

All the valves are out and none have visible damage, neither do the seats although the exhaust ports on Cyl #1 and 2 are definitely a bit charred. 

All of the intake valves are almost pristine and the outletValves are pretty coked up. A picture below is the valves from Cyl #3 to show the contrast.
.

One valve shows a chunk of carbon blown off the back, that could have been the bang I guess.

I will clean everything thoroughly and examine again. 

Thankfully I have a loan of an ultrasound cleaner and those valves will get a run in it and a steam cleaner to go at the head cleaning. Shiney pics will follow I hope!

If it was overheating Will there is more to it. I would suggest checking the timing as the plate carrying the hall sensors could have moved and retarded the ignition which would cause very rapid overheating.

I couldn't see a whole lot wrong in there Rick and when the plate lined up to the timing mark the cam sprockets were spot on.

I couldn't see a whole lot wrong in there Rick and when the plate lined up to the timing mark the cam sprockets were spot on.

A steam cleaning to de-carbonise and a polish up of the head with a brass brush has revealed what appears to be a crack in Cyl #3 leading to the Exhaust port (same one that blew the crap of the back of the valve). I'm guessing this can open a bit when it warms up.

I think this head is fubar. 


The pitting is a curious feature of this head too. Was somewhat visible under the dirt and varnish last night during and after steam cleaning but became more apparent with the brass brush. Anybody seen it before?

Not just confined to the cylinders:

Next step for me would be to have it crack tested but that combustion chamber doesn't look to me that coolant has been leaking through. usually the valves would be very clean if that were happening. If a crack test shows nothing then a surface grind to get rid of the pitting and my feeling would be to put it back on and see what happens.
A crack like that can be fixed fairly easily but it may mean inserting a new valve seat but a good secondhand head would be more cost effective.

I just got the head back from the precision engineers before I had to travel so no time to do anything with it.

I've had it planed (skimmed) and the exhaust ports soda blasted.
The scratch planed out and the pitting remains but is just a harmless imperfection in the aluminium according to the experts.

 turned my attention to cleaning the piston tops today and I found the source of my rattle....#1 Little end:


I wont have a chance to take it out until the weekend but will do so before ordering parts.

good to find it now Will

good luck

Thread update. Work got in the way this week but I pulled the piston tonight and the small end is rattling but worse there is evidence of oil starvation in the big end. The big end shells are worn and the crank scored.

Given the cost of stretch bolts, bearings, machining Etc Etc I'm thinking the most cost effective repair will be an engine swap but with my reconditioned head fitted. 

This bike is now being repaired to be sold to make way for the next project and the restoration of the Bullion Brick.

Bad luck about the K1100 engine Will. Thankfully not many of us K owners experience major engine wear/damage.

Enjoy the coming work on the Gold Bullion.

Cheers

If you can find a K1100 engine that you hear running then just put it in and save the reco head for later or sell it.

I
Just to update the thread.

I've had the head rebuilt, #1 piston was gone at the top and bottom bearings. The shell had completely broken up on the big end. #2 was starting to go.

I pulled the crank shaft and pistons and brought them to my local engineers who pronounced the shaft Fooked (or words to that effect) as is #1 conrod although the piston and rings are ok.

Since buying the K1 I'm now in this to get out of it and the economics of the rebuild suggest the bike will yield more value to me in cash and spares as a breaker. Pity but I have had some fun out of it.

I can't bring myself to break a good K......gonna mothball it.