lol ..

no worries rossco ...just make sure you bring it with you .

charlie
would a set of oxy tip cleaners do i have a set

now theres an idea col ....

as long as the right angle section to tip is no longer than about 12 mm in total ...else it wont fit in the hole ..i guess

I'd like to ask a dumb question? If when blowing down the resevoir tube the air goes out the allready free hole do we have to block it to make it go out the other hole? or is it from the caliper end where we have to blow? i cant get my head around the releif thing for the caliper

Oh please. Not another suggestion. No matter how good it is.
K75ster, I had not thought of that and it would have been a bloody good idea about 36 hours ago.
How better to find a hole than to block all the ones you know about. grrrr.
New brake is in the post now and exhibit A will be placed in a locked, sealed lead lined bag and hauled to the northern parts for closer inspection.
As it was Blakey's suggestion to bring it along, he has first dibs

K75ster, it is in the master cylinder somewhere, not the caliper.

Yep in the master, thats the frownable part to be replaced, because we cant figure out why it wont release pressure off the caliper, all good and clear, sheene used to say answers on the back of a post card, indeed will wait till blakey has perused it

because the equalisation hole aint working as the piston goes past the feed, fluid backfills the behind piston area ...(now in vacume mode )

the pressure now (positive ) behind the piston will not let the piston release back to the normal home position

if the equalisation tube was working it would bypass in the return mode and allow some fluid to go back up to the resevoir ...it would also get rid of the vacume behind the piston in the first place .



make sence ?

If there is a mystery hole it is will hidden from me.
I put an old piston in the cylinder, removed the caliper and put air backwards into the system from the nipple.
So if there was a mystery hole, I am assuming some air would come back out the reservoir hole as the main hole is now plugged by the lower (closest to the spring) rubber seal.
None did.
Pushing the piston up and down had no effect.
I looked down the cylinder with a hand lens and there are no more holes. It is clean and shiney all the way down.
I did mention earlier about a ring down near the end of the cylinder.

Found it. At least a co-worker did.
It is a pin prick about 1cm down from the main inlet hole.
Stand by.

See it there?


Made up a cleaning tool from the soft metal clip thing out of a manila folder and the end of a pin.
Hole seems pretty blocked.
Ultrasonic cleaner time. As suggested by ReneZ in post #3. Sounds like good advice, now.

In we go for a bit of a poke and then home for a ultrasonic bath.

Um, good luck with that. I used a single bristle from a brass cleaning brush. But you never know.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Thanks Charlie got it, checked pic again and still looks like a shadow no wonder it isnt viewed easily, good luck rossco

blakey wrote:Um, good luck with that. I used a single bristle from a brass cleaning brush. But you never know.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Yes, the pin is way too big. Single bristle will be fitted at home.

thats why i thought the primus valve cleaner would be best rossco ....already built ...

hey good find by the way ...

we must take some mesurements to exactly how far in that hole is huh ? then we can be "right on the ball"

good work brother

Hopefully adding to this existing post is correct. I recently lost all fluid from the rear master cylinder due to bad seals. Installed a repair kit, (shaft with seals, spring, and dust boot) the repair kit did not include the parts circled in red in the following image. Nor did I see these parts when I removed the master cylinder. Should my 85 LT have these? (no ABS)

Also, with everything assembled and installed according to the instructions in this thread, I have virtually no rear brake. If I am stopped it will hold the bike, but if I am moving it will not stop the bike. The pedal feels mushy compared to how it felt prior to losing the seals and fluid (it stopped great up until that time). Will try removing the caliper and positioning it so that with the bleeder open any air bubbles will hopefully escape out the top. But that will have to wait until tomorrow.

Any advice is appreciated.


Edit: part 6 appears to be attached to the brake pedal itself. There is nothing similar to the part to the left of part 3.

Part 6 is the adjuster and most likely will still be in the brake pedal as for the other part I cant imagine it working without it as it is part of the piston mechanism.

Today I had to replace my brake caliper because it got seized and the seals were cooked. Maybe the link between the pedal and the MC was not correctly adjusted and the return hole was not functioning correctly.

To bleed the brake, I found a good way   .
I removed the caliper from the bike and had it standing as high as possible with the bleeder pointing toward the sky. As the air is always rising to the highest point, it was really easy to bleed the system. I used a pump to start then just used the brake pedal to finish. Another advantage is that you can be sitting on the bike to operate the brake pedal and the caliper is right beside you to open and close the bleeder.
As you see on the pic, I had a block between the 2 pads.