Hey guys I've been trying to refit my triple tree clamp but fear it is not seated properly as when I attempt to fit the upper triple clamp is doesn't become flush with the top of the steering stem as shown in the pictures. I can't remember what it looked like when I took it off as its been ages, Is it seated properly? if not what have I done wrong. There is a tiny gap at the bottom also shown in the pictures.






Thanks,
DBRMN

Throw the bearings in the freezer for 30 minutes.  The fit should be very easy after contraction.  I just assembled last fall.

I believe both bearings are tapered?

Ohts wrote:Throw the bearings in the freezer for 30 minutes.  The fit should be very easy after contraction.  I just assembled last fall.

I believe both bearings are tapered?

That might be hard don't really have a freezer near by, is there another way to cool them?

Also just looking at the pictures do you think it's fully seated as I feel it might be because if the steering stem was flush with the top triple clamp then there would be no room to tighten the top nut as it would just compress the steering stem if you know what I mean?

Thanks
DBRMN

That's not right. The picture showing the upper bearing race proud of the steering frame member looks wrong. Did you replace the bearings as part of the work you're doing on the bike? I I know there is supposed to be a lot more of the steering stem visible above the top of the bearing. The upper triple tree is not seated low enough.

Remove the inner race, then have a look to see if the outer race is sat square on the lip in the steering headstock. When fitting the outer race as you tap it home there will be a distinctive 'ring' as it bottoms out. 

Perhaps some freezer spray would work if you can't get the outer race to a freezer.

Mike

If the captured part of the bearing is proud of its seat, you could find a piece of PVC pipe that was the same diameter and carefully hammer it down until seated.

robmack wrote:That's not right.  The picture showing the upper bearing race proud of the steering frame member looks wrong.  Did you replace the bearings as part of the work you're doing on the bike?  I  I know there is supposed to be a lot more of the steering stem visible above the top of the bearing.  The upper triple tree is not seated low enough.

I'm not replacing the bearings so I'm not sure whats stopping it

robmack wrote:If the captured part of the bearing is proud of its seat, you could find a piece of PVC pipe that was the same diameter and carefully hammer it down until seated.

I used a appropriate sized socket to tap the bearing into place but it went a bit then would not budge so I became scared of bending it or hitting it too hard.

mike d wrote:Remove the inner race, then have a look to see if the outer race is sat square on the lip in the steering headstock. When fitting the outer race as you tap it home there will be a distinctive 'ring' as it bottoms out. 

Perhaps some freezer spray would work if you can't get the outer race to a freezer.

Mike

ye perhaps i need to check the inner race. Freezer spray sounds gd

DBRMN wrote:

robmack wrote:If the captured part of the bearing is proud of its seat, you could find a piece of PVC pipe that was the same diameter and carefully hammer it down until seated.

I used a appropriate sized socket to tap the bearing into place but it went a bit then would not budge so I became scared of bending it or hitting it too hard.

If you didn't tap it in square then the outer race will jam before it is fully home. if the bike is still like in the photo, then it will only take a few minutes to remove the inner race and have a look at how deep the outer race is in the headstock.

Mike

The projection of the stem through the top race doesn't look too bad. If you haven't removed the outer races from the steering head, then there should be no issue with seating. If you tighten down the big knurled cap/nut by hand (before you fit the top yoke), then you should be able to feel how the yokes turn, and rock them to check for any play that would indicate the inner races not nipping up enough on the outers. Sometimes you can get a bit of roughness on the stem that prevents the top inner race sliding down it smoothly but, again, the check is too see if the steering can stiffen up as you overtighten the knurled cap (just a bit!)

Other bikes seem to have a better way of fixing the top yoke - I always wonder if the act of tightening the top yoke centre retaining nut (or should I call it a bolt) causes the top yoke to twist a bit. I now check the fork legs (the stanchions, if I have the sliders off) for skew by holding a piece of plate glass against them - lo and behold, I find I have to apply a counter torque to them as I am tightening the top yoke retaining nut...bolt...thing. This could just be wear in my yokes though, they are decades old and have been off and on countless times. No need to panic.

Did you remove the outer race of the old bearing before installing the new one?

mike d wrote:

DBRMN wrote:

robmack wrote:If the captured part of the bearing is proud of its seat, you could find a piece of PVC pipe that was the same diameter and carefully hammer it down until seated.

I used a appropriate sized socket to tap the bearing into place but it went a bit then would not budge so I became scared of bending it or hitting it too hard.

If you didn't tap it in square then the outer race will jam before it is fully home. if the bike is still like in the photo, then it will only take a few minutes to remove the inner race and have a look at how deep the outer race is in the headstock.

Mike

There that might be a possibility but I think it was square as there are no obvious signs that its seated at an angle of something.

chris846 wrote:The projection of the stem through the top race doesn't look too bad. If you haven't removed the outer races from the steering head, then there should be no issue with seating. If you tighten down the big knurled cap/nut by hand (before you fit the top yoke), then you should be able to feel how the yokes turn, and rock them to check for any play that would indicate the inner races not nipping up enough on the outers. Sometimes you can get a bit of roughness on the stem that prevents the top inner race sliding down it smoothly but, again, the check is too see if the steering can stiffen up as you overtighten the knurled cap (just a bit!)

Ye I've tried assembling it with the right torque set to the top nut and it feels sturdy and smooth so my guess is that its probably alright, but with such a key structural element to the bike I think I need more than 'probably alright' to quote myself.

chris846 wrote:Other bikes seem to have a better way of fixing the top yoke - I always wonder if the act of tightening the top yoke centre retaining nut (or should I call it a bolt) causes the top yoke to twist a bit. I now check the fork legs (the stanchions, if I have the sliders off) for skew by holding a piece of plate glass against them - lo and behold, I find I have to apply a counter torque to them as I am tightening the top yoke retaining nut...bolt...thing. This could just be wear in my yokes though, they are decades old and have been off and on countless times. No need to panic.

So what order would  recommend assembling the front end?

RicK G wrote:Did you remove the outer race of the old bearing before installing the new one?

I'm didn't remove the outer race nor did I use a new bearing I'm just using the same bearings.

DBRMN wrote:

robmack wrote:If the captured part of the bearing is proud of its seat, you could find a piece of PVC pipe that was the same diameter and carefully hammer it down until seated.

I used a appropriate sized socket to tap the bearing into place but it went a bit then would not budge so I became scared of bending it or hitting it too hard.

I'm a little confused.

In the above you said you used a socket to tap then bearing into place. Then in your last post you said you hadn't removed the outer race. Are you saying you used the socket to tap in the inner race?

Mike

Hope this helps:



This is my K100 (so no actual guarantee that it's assembled properly - at all!)
The stem is around 3.5mm below the yoke, and the nut/bolt/thingy takes around 3.75 turns to tighten down - about the same as yours I'd guess.

chris846 wrote:Hope this helps:



This is my K100 (so no actual guarantee that it's assembled properly - at all!)
The stem is around 3.5mm below the yoke, and the nut/bolt/thingy takes around 3.75 turns to tighten down - about the same as yours I'd guess.

Thats exactly what I was looking for thank you! That makes me feel much better about mine. I fitted the whole front end today I'll attach pictures soon!!