A KKK convention and you're serving drinks. What's that box of tools for?

kkk ? im lost .....

We're from the South, it's true, but perhaps not the Deep South. White robes. All going into one room. Ku Klux Klan....

oh ? gotcha ...

Note to self: Best not to use a razor blade to "free up" a liquid gasket when there are electrical wires underneath. One little slip and snip snip!





OG

oh no !!!! did that just happen og ?

um oil presure and temp sender ?

Yep, this morning mate. I'm beginning to think my best work isn't done early in the morning, lol! Just genius...

lol .....put it down as adrenalin rush huh ?



shall i lend you my gas soldering iron and some heat shrink ?



and a clip round the ears huh ? .....coffee and breky before starting anything ...mate ....giggles

I know mate...engage brain BEFORE picking up tools right! ON the up side it gives me an excuse to dig out that soldering iron I got last x-mas that hasn't been touched.

mate try and get some double wall , glue lined heat shrink ...itll go together just fine ..and the glue seals out the water as well....(from much experience)

Thanks mate! Hadn't heard of that one.

Mcmaster has some adhesive-lined. What to you think Charlie?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-shrink-tubing/=dsju8n

That's the stuff. Adds a bit more protection to the cable as well.

Thanks again mate!

Front master cylinder rebuild kit arrived from Beemer boneyard today. Great price and customer service! Even included two new brass washers.




OG

looks good to me og ...... im gussing you will need something that shrinks down to about 3-4mm ...so i guess 6-8 mm od .

the stuff i have used before has a shrink ratio of at least 3-1 and this looks like the same stuff .....bonus on the length not shrinking as much eh ?

MEASURE AND CUT THE HEAT SHRINK AND PUT IT ON BEFORE SOLDERING HUH ?

i guess you will be needing about 2.5 inches per cable and slide it away from the heat/join area as far as possible .



just make sure you cover up to about 1 inch away from the join and i might suggest ...not trying to solder the ends together with side to side overlap ....get the wire itself stripped ..(about 8-10mm of copper exposed ) and twist it around the other ...this should make the joint about 4-5 mm long with interleaving wire...then solder it , when the joint is cool slide the heatshrink over it ....then shrink it evenly on all sides i use a back and forth motion with a cigarette lighter really quickly so no hot spots ....,,,it will burn through if you let it stand ......but best might be a heat gun or something similar if you havent had experience before



hope that helps



off into the rain for twbs ride day (i have this feeling itll be a day of much talking ...but im taking the camera so hope to get some good shots )

You know we really need to set up some kind of international paypal account for the board so I can buy some of you guys a bear!

Re-doing the cam chain cover with the Hylomar this time. When its warm like this it takes maybe 35-40min to finish the entire job and you can fill up with fluids straight away after joining the surfaces.

Send cash...we'll get it exchanged at our local bank
I'm not wishing to look a gift horse in the mouth, what are we going to do with a bear?

blakey wrote:Send cash...we'll get it exchanged at our local bank
I'm not wishing to look a gift horse in the mouth, what are we going to do with a bear?

Just opened a bottle......it would be empty in about 12 minutes.

Inge K.

A man after my own heart Blakey!

blakey wrote:what are we going to do with a bear?

Barbecue? ......should be a small piece for every member.

Inge K.

......sweet answer inge ...cheers ....(clinks stubbies /glasses )

Inge K. wrote:
Barbecue? ......should be a small piece for every member.

Inge K.

So Here we have a hero who is going to cut the bears throat while we all watch from the side of the pit.

K Freak wrote:



So Here we have a hero who is going to cut the bears throat while we all watch from the side of the pit.

Now that would be some contest, somehow don't think it would last long.





BIG D

Hey Charlie,
Any recommendations for solder mate?
Thanks,
OG

The Hylomar took care of the cam chain cover and rebuilding the front brake this am so off to DMV Monday or Tuesday to get her licensed.

OG

Get ready to crack the bottle of vino open OG we'll all toast you mate, job well done.



BIG D

Thanks D!

thats great news og .....are you taking her in ....in naked format ?
or is the fairing going back on ?.....cant think if i have seen the full effect mate .



solder ....hmm ....anything "electronic" application should do fine og



(there is a trend to go lead free in solder over the next few years , with high tin content only ....but to me its all bad news for doing cables as the tin is less maleable and requires higher melting point ....so if antbody is following ....grab your selves a 1/2 or 1 kilo roll of solder ....(about $20..) should last you for all your days

Sounds good mate. She's going to have to go in mostly naked as I've got a little box stuffed with all new fasteners as she didn't come with any of that and doubtful I'll have time to get to by Monday.

Good tip on the solder mate!

Speed bleeders just arrived and I'm heading out to Parkrose Hardware to pick up solder and double wall heat shrink. If I can remember where I stashed the new timing gun and carb sync the old girl should be up and running by tomorrow evening!

OG

10mm x 1.0 'fine' thread, I hope! Parkrose hardware! I remember it well.

Hey Charlie,

Just saw your post about ride day! Hope you guys don't get too wet and please post pics!? Wish I could beam the bike over and go with you guys...

OG

Yesterday, and everyone got wet but came away smiling!

Nice guys! How many guys went out?

Lol, I shudder to think about the time I've spent out at Parkrose since starting this project. Great selection of items that are very tough to get other places on this side of town. Yep, mate M10 X1.0 stainless and got them on Flea-bay from a very professional power seller. kirbysbrakebleeders.com





The blonde moment repair kit.

There were half an hour rides from nine AM 'til four PM with as many as eight and as few as three riders plus the lead and tail. I'm really bad at maths so you can add it up, (but I can spell all right)

Sounds great mate! I hope we can put together a PNB group like that?

OG

Ran the front master cylinder thru three cycles in the tank to get it cleaned up to a level I was satisfied with. Installed the new piston and rubber and after a bench bleeding popped it on and will bleed the entire system tomorrow morning and that's it for the front. Action and volume is much improved.











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nice one og !!!!

......cheers





question .....whats a pnb group ?....does it involve secret hand shakes ..... i got no idea ......grin

Actually, I was thinking spline lube practical exam. ;-)

OG

Going to do the throttle body sync and ignition advance today.







OG

Question for you guys just using a twin sync like me to get your four done: Do you use the number one cylinder as your reference and sync the other three up to that and do you need a splitter for the vacuum hose on number four?

Thanks!
OG

Here is a how to from another forum.

Inge K.

Except for the fact that he got the knob's functions reversed in his description that is the way I do it with my Twinmax too. Also, I set them up at half sensitivity first to see if they're really very far out then adjust them to the most sensitive position, one at a time, but not backtracking and doing them all over again. This allows you to really get any 'bounce' out of the needle and gets them as accurate as they're going to be. I've often found that unless someone's played with the air screws they're often spot on already. It doesn't make any difference whether you 'T' the last vacuum port off the fuel pressure regulator. Just plug straight into number four's vacuum port. Be careful the springy covering doesn't get away from you. It's a tricky foreskinny thing to have to put back into place. I use a clip to hold it and it doesn't complain. :|

The linked instructions are from Drake, the K Bike Seattle spare parts dude.

Nice find Inge! Thanks for the corrected details TWB. Sadly, it looks like someone has messed about with the air screws as two and three were way out. Does the dealer have a flow bench to get things sorted out again?

OG

You won't need that unless someone's messed with the actual painted-over locknut and threaded screws between the TBs. The air screws control only air at idle or thereabouts and are at the base of each TB. Just turn each one back in gently and then back them out the desired amount, call it one and a half turns, then set them up as described in Drake's tutorial.

My bad mate. I meant to say the infamous threaded screws. Number two had to be backed out almost all the way to get it in balance and number three didn't have enough adjustment to get it right. I'm going to turn into a pumpkin this evening, but I'll look over the new info and hopefully have time to re-check everything tomorrow evening.

OG