nice news about the m/c og ....

nice seat too

Thanks mate. Still hoping to find time to get the solo finished as it fits me better and I prefer the looks. Have you had time to get your front brakes sorted? If I remember correctly you got a hoard of parts from MB...

OG

last few weeks ive been riding , not a drop of brake fluid has passed my lips ....oops leaked from the m/c mate ...so its looking kinda promising

now preparing for our trip south , but have found a weeping crank end side cover seal (thought it was brake fluid from the m/c for a while ,,,when it drips it kinda falls in that area )

i guess ts just the 20 + year old rubbers thang .

i just know that ill have to replace it all over the comming months.

cant decide if i should fitt up the lower side covers and radiator fairings for the trip though ...i had prommised myself that i wouldnt till we got a good spray gun and redid the whole thing properly (the fairing repair is kinda rought still as i was rushing to get it registered before christmas last year ) yes its painted but the finish under was...erm rushed to say the least, although you dont really notice from 5 feet away .

Wow, nice work on the m/c mate! I've finally got my system sealed with the parts from Rob, but she's giving me a challenge with the bleeding. May have to try CF's method with the syringe and pumping it up from the nipple.

Ah, yes the rubber isn't it almost always the rubber!!

sounds like my rush to get her registered for fall mate. i was going to take a workshop on painting and redo some of the panels that the PO rushed thru with the expected results, but just ran out of time this summer. my roomie is fond of telling me frequently if you're not happy with it back your *** up another five feet and you'll feel better!

That is a nice seat. Wish I had one like it.

hey C,
It's an old Corbin I got on Flea-bay from a kid who snaps up old ones and recovers them in modern vinyl. He does good work, but the Corbin sits lower on the frame rails and my legs are a little cramped compared to the stock solo.

No joy on the front bleed yet. Tried speed bleeders with the manual method, a power vacuum system, and I'm going to get some more syringes off of Flea-bay and do Bert's reverse method. Hopefully, third method will be the charm!

OG

I use a vacuum pump and it works great for me. I have experienced cases where it seems that I pump fluid through the brake system forever. Such was the case with the change to 4-piston calipers on my bike. However, all of a sudden, the hydraulics would firm up and the process would be complete. Did you give the vacuum system enough time to work properly OG? This is especially true when you've completely drained the brake lines. I've also found that cracking open the caliper bleed screw barely 1/8th turn is enough to let fluid flow; any more has a tendency to let air enter (mind you, you did say you had speed bleeders installed).

Sorry, I didn't follow the post on the brakes
When removing a part of the brake system, follow simple rules:
-Pre-fill the maximum of parts (hoses, MC, caliper) before re-assembling.
-Let them sit for a while in order for the air to raise.
-Reassemble everything and fill up the MC
-Wait for a good 15 min, then pump on the brake when opening the bleeder. This is to ensure that the circuit is filled with fluid.
-Go to enjoy one or many cold ones.
Usually, the cold ones may last for a night as the air bubbles will take their time to raise to the highest point(which is the MC).
Next morning, take a couple of pills to cure your self inflicted headache then start to push the fluid from the bottom using a syringe.
Just follow the rules of physic... Air is raising but it can be slow.

As a note: If you don't have a syringe, an oil can will do the trick:




Bert

Often too, like an old toilet that won't stopping running, jiggle the handle a fair bit, watch the bubbles appear in the reservoir, then leave it for a good while - those few requisite coldies CF talks about. When I did my recent 20mm master cylinder swap from the original 13mm, I could not get any 'piston' even with copious amounts of clean Dot 4 brake fluid and constant bleeding. So I let it sit over night with a sturdy rubber band pulling the lever back hard against the grip, a clean rag over the open master reservoir, and by morning it had tightened up a fair bit. In two minutes of re-bleeding the next morning it had firmed right up to normal.

Thanks guys for all the info and tips! Went thru over a can Rob which is usually way more than enough and I went thru all the normal "tricks" and even did the overnighter TWB so I'm going to return to square one with the lines and calipers and make certain everything is assembled properly and leak free. At this point I'm betting I missed something silly or simply didn't assemble with the proper care that the old girl demands.
Will report back with where I screwed the pooch.



OG

Just a thought OG is there an air leak in one of the connection? You could disconnect the mc at the head stem and fill the callipers from there and bleed mc then reconnect good luck

Tony

Hey Guys,
Finally made some time to order some needed parts and hope to get the old girl ready for the winter commute season by the end of the month. Also, wanted to thank all you guys who've helped me out this quarter. You know who you are! I've said it before, but it's worth repeating: We have some of the best guys out there on a bike board!


Regards,
OG

Along the lines of great guys helping out I wanted to post a pic of the "seal Kit" that yankeeone sent me! I will post more pics of getting the new gen thee crank seal in properly in hopes of saving some folks a little time and money.



OG

Purchased some of the new Performance Friction .10 compound pads for the street. Had a very nice chat with Riccardo DiSilvestro who is their program manager and he was willing to do wholesale pricing if I ordered three or more sets so if any of you North America guys are interested in doing a group buy send me a pm and if there is enough interest we can make it happen...




OG

Picked up this 95 Showa fork on Flea-bay. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction TWB! I am hoping to do a little horking on it so I can swap out the old 85 pogo stick. Not thrilled about the rust forming on the tops and mid-section of the tubes, but we shall see..







OG

Are you going to use a 17" wheel with that fork set-up? Check to be sure your original two-piston callipers align with the mounting holes in the fork legs and that the original brake discs and mudguard (fender), axle depth (width is OK), spacers for the bearings and such fit. Bearing 'preload' it set on the inside of the wheel intended, but you can bind them up if using the incorrect external spacers against the machined part of the axle shaft.

Was it me who pointed you in that direction?

Thanks mate! I haven't gotten that far along in my research and that is good info to have. I'll be using the original 18 inch Y-wheel, and for right now just going to be bolting everything up from the 85 front end except for the newer fender that is required...

Decided to go ahead an do the whole front end while I'm finishing up the brakes. Got the Showa fork apart and everything cleaned up fairly well with the pitting I was concerned about being confined to the upper third of the tubes. Going to talk to Dave Hodges at GP suspension in Oregon City this week about getting new springs and emulators installed.

I have both halves of the 'new' style front mudguard. One of the bits, I believe the front portion, has some minor road rash on it. They're red like my bike but repairs and a respray would be in order anyway. Postage by weight wouldn't be much except for the size. You'd have to source the attachment nuts, bolts and long screw, and ancillary bits.

nice one og .....can i see 4 pot calipers happening soon ?

Thanks TWB! I think I've got one lined up state side, but if it falls thru I'll be in touch. I think for right now Charlie I'm going to just get the stock brake setup sorted out properly and see how happy I am with it. I want to get the radials on first as I really want to commute on her this winter and the extra stick will be very welcome in our beloved Pacific Northwest climate.

OG

About the only thing you'll possibly have to deal with brake-wise on the later forks is brake disc offset from the wheel hub to the centre of the caliper, caliper alignment, ie, mount bolt spacing on the fork legs. Your stock 285mm diameter brake discs have a 31.5mm offset. Have you given them and the calipers an attachment 'dry run' yet?

No mate I've not had a chance to do any dry fitting or take measurements yet. Just got it apart to confirm that it will be a useable specimen condition wise.
Fingers crossed!

OG

That bloke you mentioned at the suspension place...he's been at it a while. The local club racers at PIR and sports riders all over that region use his services. You of course won't have anything to compare to, but the before and the after are amazing with those emulators! No one will sinking that Bismarck!

Yeah mate I remember when I dropped the old Ohlins off to be rebuilt and he had all these pictures on the wall of racers thanking him for his work and I knew I was in the right place.

Once again the old parts cleaned up better than I was expecting and it looks like the flea-bay forks are going to be usable.



Hopefully, I can find some time this weekend to do a little mix and match and see wherer I am with the fitment...

OG

crikey og you didnt put them through the washer did you ?,,,,grin

Charlie,

The forks didn't go in the washing machine, but will be install on it.
This is to damper the violent shakings when he will wash the rest of the parts.
OG:
When you will wash the calipers will you use "Cotton, linen" or "Delicates, hand-wash, wool" cycle?

By the way, the parts look good.

CF (You know why they call me Crazy Frog)

lol thanks for the laugh bert ... i wish you all were out here, on our meetup ..way down south of you guys ...

we have many things in common .....if you could meet our mate rt,and so many others , i'm sure they would have you (like me ) laughing all night long ...i guess with age comes wisdom and dry humour

dontcha love the community that is around us ....

cheers guys ...

great pics og mate

Yep, always count on you guys to keep me smiling! No washing guys, but it is good for solvent bath or two when the rommie isn't looking.


OG

charlie99 wrote:i guess with age comes wisdom and dry humour

I have some doubts about wisdom but dry humour, yes definitively!

Found a cheap little oil gun on Flea-bay they were advertising as a brake bleeder.
Hopefully, once I get the calipers off and check that I didn't screw the pooch on the rebuild I'll be able to finally get the brakes bleed properly. Thanks again CF for tip!


OG

After looking around a bit I got some Rancho shock boots from Amazon for about eight bones a piece.




OG

The dishwasher is the best, much better than the washing machine for parts cleaning just wait till SWMBO is out and get a load on but make sure you are finished before she gets back and then get a load of crockery in on wash cycle. Then instead of grief you will get a gold star!
Regards,
K-BIKE

A man of experience is talking....
With all the gold stars that you already acquired, your rank must be at least Five stars General

I nearly dropped the laptop!!

dont forget to wipe the grease stains off the control buttons
deadset giveaway if you dont

That's where the latex gloves come in after removing the gloves the hands are clean and no tell tale evidence is left behind.
Regards,
K-BIKE

sneeky bugga @k-bike ....giggles

Dont use that latex for any other task !

K-BIKE wrote:That's where the latex gloves come in after removing the gloves the hands are clean and no tell tale evidence is left behind.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Do it the other way around, sometimes they even look for fingerprints.

Inge K.

Lol, I had no idea we had such a devious group of guys on board!


OG

Hey OG. Don't forget to make air holes in those new shock boots if they don't already have them.
When I put mine on and compressed the forks they blew up like balloons with the trapped air in them. Used a wood drill bit to make a few holes in them at the top.
Wouldn't like you to develop a saggy looking front end!

good recomendation john..... i did mine with a hole punch tools ...works a charm ...just 2 small holes at the back of the boots in each one, about 5mm in diameter

dont forget to wipe the grease stains off the control buttons
deadset giveaway if you dont

Same rule applies to the Oven if changing bearings!!

....changing bearings ......

Fenders finally arrived today after a shipping SNAFU. Not in great shape, but they were dirt cheap and with some primer and paint hopefully will do the job. Anybody have any experience with soda blasting on these plastic bits to remove old paint and junk?




OG

I have had problems with painting and cracks comming through from older coats. Sand the old paint off completly. I painted the K75 about 18 months ago and thought the guard was fine but noticed very fine lines from cracks in the previous coat starting to come through. The K1100 had fine hairline cracks from the guard being twisted so I used a another one I had of a K100RS but had a lot of problems with silicone in hairline cracks that were not even visible till the first coat of primer I then sanded all 11 coats of colour and all the primer that goes with them back to the black plastic. The plastic was very furry when I sanded it but was ok after 3 coats of primer and a light sand with wet paper in between each coat. It seems OK now but I am keeping a close eye on it.

Agree with Kfreak. You don't want this to happen:

What Happened to my Paint Job?