When I bought this old 1988 K100RS, someone had removed the rear mud guard....I think that's what it's called. So no where to hang the tag, and I just prefer the guard to be back there.





There were several for sale on ebay and this arrived today. It's in pretty good shape and it should mount up ok.




However, I have a couple of mounting questions


In the pic, I assume that tab(S) marked with an "A",




Mount under the brace marked with a "B"?



And, would anyone know the correct size and type of screw that mounts in the holes marked "C". please?

I appreciate any help!

Philip

All your assumptions are correct but there are usually two screws in the "C" holes that go into the screw hole thingy. The screws are captive so you dont lose them but from memory the size is what I would call a No8 screwwith a phillips No2 head. Get a screwand try it in the clip thing and it is fairly apparent when the size is correct.
Now for the bike you lucky guy scoring one of those Blue and white ones they are one of the more sought after K100s Congratulations a good find and buy.

K Freak wrote:All your assumptions are correct but there are usually two screws in the "C" holes that go into the screw hole thingy. The screws are captive so you dont lose them but from memory the size is what I would call a No8 screwwith a phillips No2 head. Get a screwand try it in the clip thing and it is fairly apparent when the size is correct.
Now for the bike you lucky guy scoring one of those Blue and white ones they are one of the more sought after K100s Congratulations a good find and buy.

Excellent info, K Freak! Thank you! I will start with trying a No8/philipsNo2. Any idea of the correct length? I will measure and guess if all else fails.

Again, thanks!

Philip (no relation to the screw head)

The correct size of this screw is 4,2 x 19 mm, and PH2 as K Freak allready said.

Congratulations with a very nice "special edition", if you like to get it as close to factory specs as possible,
search a tinted screen + screen spoiler and a belly pan.

Inge K.

Inge K. wrote:The correct size of this screw is 4,2 x 19 mm, and PH2 as K Freak allready said.

Congratulations with a very nice "special edition", if you like to get it as close to factory specs as possible,
search a tinted screen + screen spoiler and a belly pan.

Inge K.

There is a belly pan and mounting bracket on ebay with an unknown reserve. I am watching that. Where is the best place to find a screen and spoiler. i may have seen them on motobins?

Back to my original post, do the mudguard tabs go above the inner fender or between the inner fender and the bracket? I would assume above the inner fender?

Thanks, y'all!

Philip

Between the inner fender and the bracket (don`t forget to tighten up the nuts under the caps inside the ducktail).

Motobins is a good source for the tinted screen and spoiler, it was on their site a couple of weeks ago.

Inge K.

Hi DSCR!

Been looking at the picture of your bike, and it seems like the filler cap on your tank is wrong mounted (the hinge should be in the rear end).

The way it`s now mounted the water drain is blocked, and you have the possibility to get rainwater into your tank.

The drain is a small hole on the left side on the tank flange, and it`s a cut out in cap flange and gasket. Remove the four screws and turn it 180 degree.

Inge K.

Inge K. wrote:Hi DSCR!

Been looking at the picture of your bike, and it seems like the filler cap on your tank is wrong mounted (the hinge should be in the rear end).

The way it`s now mounted the water drain is blocked, and you have the possibility to get rainwater into your tank.

The drain is a small hole on the left side on the tank flange, and it`s a cut out in cap flange and gasket. Remove the four screws and turn it 180 degree.

Inge K.

Now that is an incredibly good eye right there! Impressive find from that photo! Technically, that photo is from when the PO placed his ad to sell. I forget how I figured it out, but it certainly took a lot longer than you did. And I was here looking at the bike.

However I figured it out, it has been turned around as you described since a few days after acquisition.

Again, good eye! And thanks!

Oh .... can you tell by looking at that pic why my headlight and left indicators wont work!

Brand new glasses!! :cyclops:

Inge K.

Inge K. wrote:Brand new glasses!! :cyclops:

Inge K.

LOL, I understand! Let's see how they work again if you or anyone else is familiar with this....

Please note wire bundle "D" in this pic.




And the gap and groove labeled "E" and "E"....




I have been trying to fit the mudguard into place with (hopefully) the right screws. The wire bundle wont let the mud guard fit up to the starboard side. I have removed the tail light to see better and I dont see any other way. The bundle is just too fat to fit into the depression or groove moulded into the piece at the lower "E".

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Philip

I`ve owned the same bike 25 years, and haven`t noticed that extra groove in the mudguard until this moment!! (the brand new ones is only three days old, seems like it was needed).

It looks like your wiring have been modified, also the connector back there seems to be missing.
Provide a picture, to show what it should be look like.

Inge K.

[img]http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/[/img]

im guessing he has the abs options and the cable loom is just bigger than early models inge , as well as looking like there is a different diameter protective covering ...at a guess

You are certainly correct about this Charlie 99, done some work on these early ABS models with the ABS ECU in the ducktail...years ago. (but didn`t noticed this detail).

Inge K.

I have just had a look at my 75 and it has the ABS computer in the ductail but the loom is sitting outside the frame rail and above the pannier bracket mount, it fits together just fine.

Yes, I see some differences. Please excuse the pics. If they are too fuzzy I can take more.





The larger bundle above goes to the computer thingy in the tail. I dont see that in your pic. How does yours get into the tail to the computer module? if I only had the smaller that goes to the tail light connector, it would be fine.

What do you think?

I checked the part numbers of the mud guard from several different bikes of the era and I thought the part numbers were the same. Maybe the ABS version is different with a deeper cut for the larger loom? Maybe I can modify/cut out the groove to accommodate the larger loom?

I would be inclined to "make" it fit by doing some careful triming with a sharp knife.

K Freak wrote:I would be inclined to "make" it fit by doing some careful triming with a sharp knife.

LOL....That is my inclination as well. I am a former KLR owner. You never totally get rid of it. I will own a KLR again.

or some plastic re-welding (manipulation ) ....just to make that groove deeper and wider that way you wont have any erm loss of suport material ....just a thought .

charlie99 wrote:or some plastic re-welding (manipulation ) ....just to make that groove deeper and wider that way you wont have any erm loss of suport material ....just a thought .

All tips are appreciated. I am not familiar with this process. Would you share more info, please?

Thanks!

i use a gas powered soldering iron ....with a largish flat tip (about 3/8 across ) a normal type soldering iron about 60 watt would do the same i guess ...what id be doing is melting the high spots out and down rather than using a blow torch or something similar ....to keep the melt process verry localised .

charlie99 wrote:i use a gas powered soldering iron ....with a largish flat tip (about 3/8 across ) a normal type soldering iron about 60 watt would do the same i guess ...what id be doing is melting the high spots out and down rather than using a blow torch or something similar ....to keep the melt process verry localised .

Ah. I see. Very good, I wouldnt have thought of that. Again, I sort of head for the sharp blades....LOL.

I think I have an old soldering iron around here......

Well, I tried the soldering iron with a 3/8" blade tip. Made progress but it was just pushing rope.

It was not my preference, but the only way I could get this to work with that fat loom was to break out the dremel and remove the section that was in the way.




The looser side is still very stable. If I can find the right screws It should mount up now.

Thanks for all the help!!

Philip