Have got some hot grips I want to install for Winter. From the grips, the wires meet via two blocked connectors. Another blocked connector joins the thermostatic switch to the loom at the same point. The wires resolve into a fused red wire, and a ringed earth in black. What is the best way to connect to the K75 loom? Should I use the existing connectors under the tank in some way? Is a relay the best way to go? If so, how do I do that? I'm OK doing most stuff, but I hate electrics! I've read various posts, but I think I need an "Idiots Guide'! Will try and get some photos up if I can work out how to......

Here's a good link! Not specific to K's, but the info will translate.
http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/relay.html
Wow, I replied to myself!! I must have learnt something! Cool.

Ah Hu sitting in the corner mumbling into his beard and talking to himself a sure sigh of owning a K

been doing it for years .......its the only way im sure to get the right answer !!!!



cheer up boog ...we're all good at something



heres an idea ....get as much as you can done by your self ....take some photos and then ...we can help with the tricky bits .....huh ?

So far, so good! New (2nd hand!) heated grips on. Switch mounted. Both grips routed to switch, then out of switch, under tank. and nestling next to the under-seat toolbox! I have two wires : a black earth with a ring on it, and a fused red, the end of which has been cut. Earth is easy to sort out. What's best for the red at this stage? Am I right in thinking the Headlight and load shedding relay are one and the same? Does this mean that if I soldered the fused red wire to the rear light wire, this would be an appropriate way to connect? The headlight relay would then act for the grips also?

boog ...if you follow the cables to the accessiories socket (usually on top of the ignition coils ) that wire is fused and takes off the f1 relay (so it will be switched off durring start and kill switch ) that positive cable would be a good thing to wire too .

hope this helps

I like the cut of your Jibb, Charlie! Good shout. I think I'll do that.

Charlie have an good suggestion, but in my opinion this is an easier way:

In the relay box you allready got a connector for extra euqipment (round, black, 5 pole).
On that one you got a 1,5mm² red and yellow wire that is protected via fuse #5.
There you can connect directly in the female connector, which have a standard diameter.
(not quite shure if this connector was male or female, to many years since.........)

This circuit is unswitched, don`t forget to turn off your grips when parking.

Inge K.

yes i agree inge ... i had looked there also as a suitable location .... to some folks, a wire is easy to find ....and thought that it would be ... erm.... less complicated

cheers brother !!

Charlie, about the power socket connection, it`s using fuse #4.

But it`s not routed via kill switch or any relay, but the same circuit is the power feed (terminal 30)
to various relays and ignition switch before the fuse.

At least it is like this in the various diagrams I got (BMW own among them), but it could be that they not cover all models/markets.

Inge K.

youre right inge ....i was following berts fuse layout ..which more or less indicates that the stop light ...bulb monitoring unit and the accesories socket comes off fuse 1 .... reveiwing my assumption..... its not load shed protected ....doh !!!
i was thinking of one that comes off the load shed relay which would make that fuse 7 instead ? .... maybe im still confused
your suggestion is a good one for the takeoff location all the same .

You probably mixed it with connector for additional instruments or special eqipment, not a bad choice since the genuine heated grips
is connected at the same circuit.

The power socket isn`t included in Bert`s diagrams.

Inge K.

So I solder a female connector to the red fused wire from the grip switch and connect it straight onto the relay which has the red and yellow wire attached to it (in the relay box under the tank?)?
Does that sound right?

The red and yellow wire goes to a round, black, 5 pole connector not a relay.

if you want to have it connected through the load shedding relay, you can use green and black wire (almost Charlie`s suggestion) in the same connector.

The red and yellow is a heavier gauge wire, and no other loads in this fuse circuit (unless other equipment or anti thieft alarm allready fitted).


Inge K.

If you want to have it connected via the load shedding relay, the easiest way would be to use the genuine connector for heated grips.
Under the tank, left side, green and black wire, then you also have the main ground point in the same area.

Inge K.

aye ...sounds good to me ...!

I`ve posted genuine wiring layout in this thread, so you know where to look for heated grips main connector.

Inge K.

from the forum here ...this should help

Great! I was just looking for that. Is there a schematic for K75's up here at all?

i shouldnt think there would be a great difference .....but i havent seen one before ...still a newb i am

Charlie is correct, only small differences.....
Diagrams can be found here.

Inge K.

Nice! You guys rock!

All done! Grips work OK. Took the live off the green and black wire which feeds into the round black 5 pot connector. Took it for a run around the block and they seem to be heating up OK. I did notice the battery light very slightly glowing at low revs. If I turned the grips off, the charging light goes out all together. Didn't seem to occur at higher revs. Normal?

yeah normal ......same happens with the headlight ?

Like Charlie says, quite normal and nothing to worry about.

I also did get a bit worried when I noticed the same, when I installed heated grips on mine 24 years ago, until I measured the charging.

The reason is that the grips causes a small voltage drop, and is connected in the same circuit (green/black)
as the charging warning light.

If you find it disturbing, a fix for this you can find here.



Inge K.

Is it poss to make the grips warmer? They are fairly good, but I reckon they could be a bit toastier maybe?

Three steps to warmer hands:

1. Buy a pair with better heating elements.
2. Buy a pair of electrically heated gloves.
3. Click.





No, since heated grips normally runs direct coupled without resistance on full power,
it`s no easy fix for this AFAIK.

Inge K.

BooG wrote:All done! Grips work OK. . Normal?

So what are they like to ride with...for those of us with thick gloves? Are they a worthwhile upgrade?

88KE

Normally, in the high position, they get quite warm!