CO1637P wrote:Mira el enlace que pongo por si te sirve de ayuda

http://hrsbstaff.ednet.ns.ca/bvogel/...ont-start1.htm

Cuando la moto lleva mucho tiempo sin funcionar y se dejó en buen estado de funcionamiento, los primeros problemas vienen por la dgasolina que se dejó en el depósito de combustible.

La gasolina se descompone, estropeando la goma amortiguadora de la bomba, ensuciando el depósito y conductos. Arruinando la bomba y si llega a los inyectores incluso los estropea.

Por tanto, lo primero que hay que hacer es comprobar y reparar todo lo citado anteriormente y nunca intentar arrancar con esa gasolina.

La bomba de gasolina vale cara pero puede ser sustituida por bombas de automóvil de desguaces.

Pasemos al punto de la batería, si está baja de carga y se intenta arrancar el motor, el rélé de arranque se estropea, así que hay que evitar hacerlo con esa batería. El relé de arranque si se estropea, aquí en España suele costar unos 80 euros, pero se puede conseguir uno alternativo entre 5 y 12 euros.

Hay que mirar y limpiar las conexiones eléctricas, pero insisto si la moto se dejó en buenas condiones, lo importante es lo que he dicho anteriormente y como es natural cambio de aceites y filtros.

Saludos

Look at the link I put in if you help http://hrsbstaff.ednet.ns.ca/bvogel/...ont-start1.htm when the bike has long faulted and was in good operating condition, the first problems come by the dgasolina that was left in the fuel tank.

Gasoline breaks down, damaging the pump damper rubber, fouling the tank and pipes. Ruining the pump and if the injectors even spoil them.  Therefore, the first thing to do is check and repair everything mentioned above and never try to start with the gas.  The fuel pump is worth face but it can be replaced by scrap yards car bombs.  Let the battery point, if it is running low and you try to start the engine, the Starter relay is damaged, so should avoid doing so with that battery. Start relay if it breaks down, here in Spain usually cost around 80 euros, but can be one alternative 5-1...

From MS Word using the translate function. So much for US Software, explains how much of the worlds problems arise....

If we can't talk together, how can we live together?

I'm afraid that much/most of the last two replies are greek   to me.

But, all's well that ends well. Bike is running.

gunsports wrote:If we can't talk together, how can we live together?

I'm afraid that much/most of the last two replies are greek   to me.

But, all's well that ends well. Bike is running.

If the motorcycle is running I am delighted.

Saludos

Fuel pump OK face but can be replaced by scrap yards car.

I naturally refer to any that are in good working condition.

And after eight months; I solved my 'spooky start' issues.

It was only after looking at pictures of the starter button assembly on E-Bay that I realised that the starter button fitted to my bike, was incomplete! The top part of the button, and the spring that holds the bottom part; with the contact surface; away from the little brass contact points, was not there. Thus, the little starter button was resting on the two contact points and the slightest jolt or movement of the switch or handle bars, would close the contact and cause the starter to turn.

Also, whenever the ignition (with kill switch in the on position) was turned on, the fuel pump wold run and then stop. I thought this was normal. After all, the bike ran!

As starter buttons are not available seperately and the cost of a second hand switch assembly is rather expensive; I decided to make my own repair. I turned a new button from some Teflon I had available and, with a suitable spring; repaired my starter button. Spring pressure now kept the button contact point off the contact points in the handle and my spooky start issues were solved.

But, now the fuel pump would not run when the ignition switch was turned on. Remember, I thought this was normal. After checking the circuits (again) it seemed to me that the pump may have died. Off course, had I read the diagnostic chart correctly, I would have seen that power should be in the pump circuit when the starter button is pressed; not when the ignotion is turned on.

So, I emptied the tank and took everything apart to check the fuel pump. My bike is fitted with a VDO pump and the + and - on the pump is not identified. And off course; Mr clever did not remember to id the wires either!  And, as the PO or his mechanic had fixed the wires to the pump with some steel epoxy (this because they did not have/were too lazy to get; insulated connectors, I ended up cutting the loom to free the pump from the tank. Then I had to break the epoxy bond to get the connectors free.

Testing the pump with a jury rigged loom and a seperate battery; showed the pump to be OK; in both directions. Then; with two glass jars and some petrol, the + and - poles were found - carefuly; away from the bike and using a spare battery and loooong leads.

Putting it all together, saw the pump running as it should and the bike running perfectly.

BTW: if your bikes starter button has lost its top part, there is a simpler fix. The two brass contacts in the switch on which the button's contact rests, can be modified to work. All you need to do is to bend the one (switch) contact a little away. The starter button contact will then rest on one of the switch contact only; keeping the circuit open. pressing on the button; flexes the one contact down and the switch makes contact with both contacts, completing the circuit. This I only found out after fixing the button.

So one learns ....

Thanks for sharing that, many a K owner who finds the sun has destroyed his starter button will appreciate it in the future, as we do today