Dear All,

I've come into possession of a Staintune muffler for the Yellow Peril. (Thx, Keith!). I took the FD off to lube that dreaded spline and to fit a longer 12mm stud for my brand new RAM shock. Decided to try and remove the existing muffler whilst at that end of the Peril. Removed the LHS footrest plate and loosened the 4 clamps, sliding them forward as not to lose their position. The only thing holding the muffler on is grunge (I guess)

Tried a reasonable meaningful bash with a block of wood and a big hammer, fearful of disturbing the flanges at the cylinder head. I also have recollection of Charlie bashing the be-jesus out of Schoornies muffler at Bingara.

Question is: is there a technique in safely removing the muffler without having to resort to BF&I (Brute Force and Ignorance) Get a bigger hammer?

Rickmeister.

I have never had one come off easily even when it was only put on 2 days previous but you should never use any force just get a bigger hammer and bigger block of wood make many threats about what will be done to the stubborne little tyke and belt the crap out of it.
I had one some years ago where I had to just sit at the back and work the mufler round and round untill it finally saw the errors of its ways and came off.

some penetration oil into the flanges helps them come loose ....but it does take time and repeated application ...before they do come loose fully and for the oil to get right the length through .
it was an over night solution to seans old muffler removal

and a flange bolt that would not budge at all ,,,,(the angle was too obtuse to get an allen key in there properly ) as incorrectly installed and tightened by someone previously (and an age without movement and galling of the thread ).

once some movement had been created ...the flange clamp was able to be rotated just enough to get a key in and loosen it off  fully

I don't think we had anywhere near as much trouble doing blakeys  pipes and muffler some time later.
 
good luck ulrick    you have time on your side .

Is there a Mica gasket in the muffler pipeof a K100 like is used in the K75?  I would have thought that the gasket would be the weak link that allows the muffler to come off easily.  The K75 muffler never seems to stick.

Robert, the K100 doesn't have one.

And with the K75 there is only one connection to undo (easily twist apart)
K100 having 4 the only way to use a twisting motion is to remove headers et al

Hi Rickmeister
I found it easier to remove it all in one piece, headers and all, then get a a better swing at it with a rubber
heavy hammer. Remember to number the headers though, it's like a chinese puzzle to get back together properly.
(which explains why that particular one is still in pieces on a shelf in the shed).

RT wrote:it's like a chinese puzzle to get back together properly.

The solution is in the parts catalog.

true that ....but it doesn't tell you which way each of the clamps fits up to the exhaust flanges ...tricky stuff ,,,but easy if you look carefully and understand the thinking .

Does that mean I should read the manual??. What a novel idea.

RT wrote:Does that mean I should read the manual??. What a novel idea.

Only if all else fails, RT! 

I had to loosen the header pipes at the engine too when I replaced the muffler for a motad
it was as if the headers were actually spreading outwards when tightened 
hope this helps  cheers Tony

Thanks for the replies, lads!. I finished up abandoning the job, mainly because I was keen to get back out and try my brand new RAM shock absorber.

I tried heat, a block of wood vertically under the join of the headers and the muffler, a bigger hammer, bashing the end of the muffler downwards in an attempt to loosen the top two pipes but no joy. I was afraid!!. I will take on board RT's advice, remove the whole kit and kaboodle, and have a clear go at it on the bench.

Rickmeister.

Rickmeister the reason you have to get the staintune welded is it came off using a f'n big hammer so you are on the right track just use the FBH