She's about a roller.



I'm putting her together loosely...see how it all fits, then stripping it back for paint, powdercoat and fine detail. The K1200RS 5X17 rear wheel clears the Paralever swingarm using the stock 2mm spacer with about 3 or 4mm to spare - plenty. The 170mm Metzeler ME880 on the rim is just there to move the bike about. A set of Pirelli Diablo Rosso II are waiting in the wings. They are sizes 120/60ZR17 and 170/60ZR17. The bike sits low and the riding position feels neutral, with just a slight lean forward. The rear shockie I'm having made will be length-adjustable. The front mudguard will be trimmed and slimmed and painted not red. Sorry, Blakey!

Here, in the red oval, the frame will be cut and lifted, then tapered to suit the (BMW F800S) seat's shape. At the front the seat will be shaped to fit up against the back of the tank and wrap around it as well, just so.

This is looking really good, keep the reports coming.

Thanks for your interest. With a very early Spring round these parts the garage door is thrown open wide to let the sunshine and some new-found inspiration in.

This sweet little job will be in my hands in a coupla days' time. It's a nicely adjustable HyperPro 360 that Klaus from EPM Performance in New Jersey is making for me, with a stock or +10mm length so I can raise the back end if needed. A black spring will be fitted rather than their usual purple.

sounds like some good bits going into the build dazza

enjoy

Yeah, Chaz, it's been a long slog with work getting in the way, but we are slowly bringing it together.

I hope you SE Queenslanders have survived alright through Marcia's onslaught. Rocky, Yeppoon and the region, took a big hit I see, with some strong wind and heavy rain round Brissy. Shane's usually dry dam is overflowing!

We even got a lot in Stanthorpe, when the rain is coming from the East the range usually stops it getting to us but not this time.

Which clutch pieces to use?

When using a five speed 'box at the back of your new K12 motor, of course the 'bellhousing' from a five speed is required. But what clutch components to use?

The entire flywheel/clutch assembly sans the diaphragm spring from a K12 is utilised. A K11's diaphragm spring, clutch disc and pushrod are the only other parts needed to do the job.

Lest anyone tell you the K12 clutch is beefier and somehow more able to handle the increased torque as compared to the K100/K1100...they're both 180mm in diametre, the outer pressure plate is even the same part number between K12, K1100 & K100 models. The significant difference is that the K12 spring is flatter than the earlier variety, the disc the same diametre but with different splines, and the hydraulically operated pushrod longer.

Another small but significant part is the alternator/sprag clutch drive. You'll need to attach the forward half of the K12's unit to the rearward half of the K11 unit due to the K12 motor having a longer internal shaft which acts as the oil bypass relief port. The K11 unit doesn't 'reach' back far enough to allow the alternator coupling to grip the flange.

By good fortune or not, since my K12 unit was fragged (some of the feet and tiny springs were missing), I had to purchase a secondhand K11 unit. In installing it I discovered the shaft length difference. So I carefully disassembled both units to form one of the correct design.

There are very many minute differences that can lead to frustration, but as BMW often engineers pieces and parts to work throughout many years and different models, with patience one can correctly place the pieces of the puzzle together, even if it's not as originally intended.

It's all rather sturdy and overbuilt. One could say over-engineered. This is what many of us like.

Great to see the progress TWB. The k1200 wheels really take my fancy.

88KE wrote:Great to see the progress TWB. The k1200 wheels really take my fancy.

Ta. It's going heaps slower than I'd like but patience is a good thing. I have time to think about it just before I do something stooopid.

You're too methodical and thoughtful to do something stooopid, TWB.

The inspiration.

These stainless intake tubes arrived today for my Big Block and all they'll need is some cuttin' and polishin'!

Imagine your Motronic K11 or K12 TBs hanging on the end of some long intakes like these. Mr Romestant says they move the torque band waay down low, Barry White-like. Oh, baybay.

That may be a good thing to look at for the Chookie, the K75 needs more low down and I was considering advancing the intake cam about 5° and advance the ignition timing a bit.

Larry more or less told me that it was the single best improvement for a wide torque band, coupled with the snaking exhaust he fabbed, the bike pulls effortlessly from sub-2000 RPM levels in top gear! That's with the six speed 'box.

RicK G wrote:That may be a good thing to look at for the Chookie, the K75 needs more low down and I was considering advancing the intake cam about 5° and advance the ignition timing a bit.

Are you doing the Motronic to the Chook?

Two Wheels Better wrote:

RicK G wrote:That may be a good thing to look at for the Chookie, the K75 needs more low down and I was considering advancing the intake cam about 5° and advance the ignition timing a bit.

Are you doing the Motronic to the Chook?

I haven't worked out how to make the moronic to work with 3 cyl ignition because the ignition stuff is in the moronic computer so probably not.
I will be using the longer K100 headers on it to get the torque down, it did it on the K1100 when I put the K100 staintune on it.

may have to do similar  with the porting I have done

small bores flow well up high but big bores need a little more  length to stretch the induction stroke lower down in the rev range ...we already have the length and reduced size in the exhaust headers on the 2 valve models ...but have to do something with the intake I recon .

should be a good thing dazza  ..good luck

Two Wheels Better wrote:....... the bike pulls effortlessly from sub-2000 RPM levels in top gear! 

 Hmm, just like an 8 valve then.

Paul.

charlie99 wrote:may have to do similar  with the porting I have done

small bores flow well up high but big bores need a little more  length to stretch the induction stroke lower down in the rev range ...we already have the length and reduced size in the exhaust headers on the 2 valve models ...but have to do something with the intake I recon .

should be a good thing dazza  ..good luck

I s'pose you could whack some longer length runners up inside the airbox, Chazza, as we've talked about here in the past, to replace those plastic trumpets. It'd be worth the experimentation if the bloody airbox wasn't so fiddly to get in and out.



As for mine, since I can't physically make the K12 airbox fit a K100 frame, and the K11 airbox wants desperately to be left out, the stainless tubes which lay the TBs down, make a neat package of that area above the motor.

sidecar paul wrote:

Two Wheels Better wrote:....... the bike pulls effortlessly from sub-2000 RPM levels in top gear! 

 Hmm, just like an 8 valve then.

Paul.

Pulls being the operative word here. Like a proverbial freight train. Not a Sir Alec Mini climbing a grade on the motorway.

Its coming together, like everyones, boys own dream, hot wheels hot engine and cool rs style

The post '93 K1100RS wiring loom was laid out across the '89 K100 frame and all of the requisite electrical connections sussed out against the K12 TBs and other electrical bits. It seems there more than just a few subtle differences between K12 and later K11 wiring harnesses. Some of the sensors have different connectors and the K12 coils are not plug-compatible at all with the K11 system. I found a set of K11 coils with dual accessory ports attached for $28 plus postage and I await their arrival.

The five pin hall sensor connector on the K12 is flat and the K11's is roundish-oblong. Also, the cylinder head water hose connector from a K100 doesn't clear the three row radiator fan's left mount point and so a later version from a 16V was ordered, which does clear. The sensor that threads into it is already at the back end of the K12's cylinder head but the K11 loom doesn't easily reach so a 12x1.5mm plug and washer were procurred to stop up the rear hole.

As you can see there are heaps of 'little things' that need doing before it all comes together. But we persevere, adapt, improvise and overcome. Tomorrow, the headlight ears go on as well as the 5-1/2" round black H4 headlamp with a halo of LEDS round the edge as a 'running light'.

Thinking ahead to a number plate... the word for Twelve in German is Zwolf. The word for Brick is Ziegel. The word for Naked is Nackt. They're all available and it's only another $75 greenbacks for a custom plate.

This is fun and entertaining as well as trying, but we get nowhere without a test of our skills and patience. I'm looking forward to the end result. Even if it's crap, it'll be my crap.

Two Wheels Better wrote:The five pin hall sensor connector on the K12 is flat and the K11's is roundish-oblong.

Just a heads up: Be careful to double and triple check the wiring of the HES on the K12 and K100. The wires are are not equivalent. I helped Larry R. to discover this anomaly while he was debugging the Bell Kaffe. Found out the wires LOOK similar but FUNCTION totally differently.

Yes, ta for that. I have already sourced a clean K11 hall sensor assembly.
The access to spares, diagrammes and the good advice of others, plus relatively common usage of certain items between different BMW models make projects like these heaps of fun. It's also nice to not have to tread a new path because others have gone there before.

Some of today's fun...



The 38mm K12 TBs will be supported at the ends of the four 44mm ID (1-3/4") stainless steel intake runners by two rigid straps from the upper frame rails.



The four K&N air filters have a presence and will make a fair amount of intake honk and moan to go along with the Two Bros headers and muff.

The Dutch-made HyperPro rear shock (by Klaus Huenecke of EPM in New Jersey) was sprung and valved for me for a much lighter than stock K bike and is collar preload, damping and +10mm length-adjustable.

A custom three-piece Spiegler braided brake hose kit does the front end stopping with a 20mm K11 master cylinder and Brembo four-piston callipers from a K1100LT using EBC pads. I am going to try organic all round this time. The brake discs are secondhand but stock BMW F800GS 305mm floaters. The alu hose splitter at the fork brace is retained for tidiness.

At the back the two-piece metal to rubber hoses get replaced by a Spiegler single braided hose with a new Magura 113mm master cylinder, and all of the hoses are coated in black vinyl with black end fittings and aluminium banjo bolts.

There's a DOT tag on them in case I ship this one back home to OZ where it's a requirement for federal importation and then Queensland state L01 roadworthy. I have made sure that the front and rear lamps and indicators all meet DOT spec for this reason, too.

On RickG's comment I attempted to straighten a slight bulge (very slight) in the K1200LT front wheel (tyre mounted) I'd nabbed from eBay for cheap. Bloody hell if he isn't right on the money that all it took was a coupla three well-placed blows with a soft piece of two-by-four held at an angle and the force of a one pound hammer! You can hardly pick out the area where I rapped it. When installing the new ultra sticky Pirelli Diablo Rosso Corsa II tyre I'll carefully scan the wheel for signs of drain bramage.

Did anyone else here read that China National Chemical bought Pirelli/Metzeler for US$7.7 BILLION dollars?! Yet another sign it's gunna be their century.

Hey TWB,

Do you have the Spiegler part number for the rear hose? I need to replace my rear brake hose (again). With 113mm rear master, you'l stop that rear end like you threw out a boat anchor!!

Is that a two finger or a fat finger?

robmack wrote:Hey TWB,

Do you have the Spiegler part number for the rear hose? I need to replace my rear brake hose (again). With 113mm rear master, you'l stop that rear end like you threw out a boat anchor!!

Spiegler custom hose, rear, EL-0381-410-000. But this was made for me and may simply be a reference number. On a Paralever, non-ABS with '88 K100RS footpegs, I requested 15" and it's correct but there's a Monolever K75RT in the workshop and 13-1/2" is better for that.

Ah, custom.  Thought so.  I've sent off quotes to a couple places -- Speigler and a local shop.  The local came back with $85 + tax.  Ouch. Haven't heard back from Speigler yet.

I plan on routing downwards towards the Paralever and then taking a 90° curve to head straight for the master cylinder.  Gives more flex in the line.  With that, I measure 19" (500mm).  My first line was 390mm (15") and it ends up being dangerously stretched IMHO.  You must be taking a different route than I could come up with.

Hmmm, I just stopped at my storage shed during my lunch break and had a squiz at the deleted-ABS K1100RS rear hose, the bike previously owned by Duck. It's about 14-1/2" with plenty of flex allowed, so I reckon I did OK with my choice of a 15" hose. A 19" hose would really need someplace to hide on both of my bikes.

robmack wrote:I plan on routing downwards towards the Paralever and then taking a 90° curve to head straight for the master cylinder.  Gives more flex in the line.  With that, I measure 19" (500mm).  My first line was 390mm (15") and it ends up being dangerously stretched IMHO.  You must be taking a different route than I could come up with.

Yes, now I've twigged to it! Mine goes to the outside of the Paralever where it can be seen, and yours is well hidden behind it and comes up from the inside. I never imagined there was any other way but to the outside.

I had a custom front hose done at http://apexbrakes.com/custom.asp,  Prices were great and fast turnaround.  I believe they are based in Toronto.

Cheers.

Dave,

I have used Raymond's services a few times now. His prices are excellent, turnaround is quick, and quality is excellent. I only had a problem with the last line he made and it wasn't really his problem. The Apex straight 10mm x 1.0 supplied does not swivel, so I can't get the banjo bolt to line up with the rear caliper with the straight seated in the rear MC unless I put a twist in the hose. Highly not recommended! I am searching for a brake line fabricator that uses Gafler, Goodridge or Spiegler fittings. All of these manufacturers offer swivelling straight fittings that fit the rear MC on our K's. I've contacted Spiegler and Blue Streak Racing but so far no joy.

Call Spiegler USA on 937 291 1735 and ask for Mathias (Ma-tee-us). He's your man.

I've spent most of my Saturday evening after work plumbing the brake hoses and master cylinders and getting the controls to fit. Damn, if those ProTapers are not only 7/8" OD (22.25mm), compared to the stock dimension of 22mm, but the buggers who made 'em went and added a very rough, knurly finish to the left hand side of the 'bar, presumably to hold the grip on whilst performing airborne nack nacks. They are ATV/dirtbike 'bars afterall. But didn't I have a brilliant idea to take a 21.4mm to 25mm brake cylinder hone and whirl it round with a variable drill inside of the left and the right hand controls 'til the very soft metal gave way sufficiently to be able to slide them right on to the 'bar ends with a firm push and a wiggle!? They tightened right up.

The secondhand RH switchgear has a headlight on/off switch, a rarity in these here United States since about 1978 when the federal gubmint changed the headlights on on motorbikes law. I've got two LH switchgears, one of which has the LT's green windscreen uppy/downy knob. I might just use it to fit a discreet missile launcher or somesuch useful gadget.

Next I was onto the twist grip but didn't I, three months ago, order a K1200RS non-heated twisty 'cause I reckoned I was gunna use the K12 switch gear and wiring loom back then. Nuh. Now I have to wait until I can see if we have a K1100 variety twisty in stock at work. And a cable. And the ancillaries. Then I fit the clutch cable but who ordered the RS variety? I need an RT/LT cable due to the 'bar width. Oh, but I didn't forget the cable barrel end and the hidden felty bit. Next up was the throttle cable routing. With the way I've got the TBs laid down across the engine I'll need one half the length. No worries. I'll just wrap it round the intake tubes once or twice.

At this rate I'll be pushing the starter button 'bout the Fourth of July. It never ends. But I've got my Sunday and Monday off to work on it some more, too. 

Another day in the mines produced a few nuggets. It was one of those doors thrown wide open to a sunny sky sort of days. I managed to sort the stainless intakes out and attach the throttle bodies, lay in a bit of the wiring after carefully slicing out the ABS loom, re-plumb the Spiegler braided front hydraulic hoses, fiddle with the exhaust headers after a good cleaning, and install En Zed Malcolm's wicked cool slip-on connector.









'Twas a lovely day to play in the garage.

In the interest of lightweight, simplicity and, I think, clean lines, I decided on this 5-1/2" wide (140mm) H4 headlight. The 'parking light' is a ring of white LEDs. A bloke at work informed me that 'the kids' refer to them as angel eyes, and I'm hoping they increase visibility of me during daylight hours. Anything to keep me from seeing those gentle wing-ed creatures sooner than como Dios manda is alright by me.



The view from the cockpit. The basic instruments will be a small blip in the view above the headlight and possibly behind a very small black-anodised aluminium flyscreen from Rizoma.



I'm battling whether to take the intiative and just strip and buff then polish the aluminium tank as it's in pretty good nick and they just look so kewl done that way, or otherwise paint it. The red front mudguard would then have to be painted a neutral colour lest it stick out too much. I wouldn't leave it red like lipstick on a pig. I think the wheels in their natural silver state is best after thinking on it. I was gunna squirt or powdercoat them in black like the complete driveline and they will match well with the silver magnesium K12 cam cover. The completed frame will eventually be BMW Motorsport blue. So, polished alu tank, silver wheels and cam cover, blue frame, all black driveline. Oh, and those gold 'bars... might have to give that one a re-think.

Looking very good, keep up the reports.

Two Wheels Better wrote:In the interest of lightweight, simplicity and, I think, clean lines, I decided on this 5-1/2" wide (140mm) H4 headlight. The 'parking light' is a ring of white LEDs. A bloke at work informed me that 'the kids' refer to them as angel eyes.

I've seen ebay ads for "angel eyes" to mimic the BMW car headlights of recent times. I don't know whether it's specific to BMWs, but I've only seen them on BMW cars in Oz and Europe. 

I'm loving the look of the machine. 

Bill

I fitted a ring of LED's from China to my Vincent, inside the Miller headlight, along with two 3W LED's, in homemade housings, each side of the headlight. 

Very effective they are,too.

Paul.

Ringfad wrote:Looking very good, keep up the reports.

Ta for that. I'm enjoying this build. It's the first time I've gathered up a pile of not quite disparate spares from various sources and bolted them together from scratch. Other builds have either been Airheads I've owned for yonks and was restoring or putting a coupla Oilheads together out of three pranged bikes. I had an example to follow each time. This one has been a fair bit of head and arse scratching as I piece the puzzle together. At least I'm not reinventing the wheel; others have been there before.

Two Wheels Better wrote: I think the wheels in their natural silver state is best after thinking on it. I was gunna squirt or powdercoat them in black like the complete driveline and they will match well with the silver magnesium K12 cam cover.

Check out Plasti Dip
You can spray it on and peel it off.
If you like it, just leave it on.

Hmmm, a fake tan for your wheels, with no orangey residue. Fascinating. It's a bit like Duck's favourite panel coating, spray-on pickup truck bed liner.

It's what the kids are using these days.
Vinyl wrap for your wheels.

As we inch closer to the day of the pressing...starter button, that is, parts n pieces continue to arrive. Yesterday it was the new HES from Germany. Today it's a spankin' new Delkevic shorty muffler.



There's a removable DB 'killer' inside but at 9" body length and about another 5" in spigot and spout length, she'll be barking, so I reckon I will leave it in.

US$119.95 on eBay directly from the Colorado warehouse in three days' time.

eBay Delkevic

And on the bike...

With the fuel pump in, the wiring loom layed, the new HES from Germany connected, and all other connections tight, I turned the key and hit the starter button. The engine cranked over smartly but there's no fuel pressure and no spark. Of course, all of the components are used, eBay sourced and/or of unknown provenance to me. Let the diagnosis begin.

That's unfortunate, hopefully it is something simple!

and so the real testing starts

good luck !

does the K1200 not have a huge air flow meter to consider like the K100?

Only K75 & K100-8V use an in-airbox AFM. K100-16V use Motronic 2.1, K1100 use 2.1 & 2.2, and K1200 use 2.2. Mine is later the K11 loom with O2 sensor, Motronic 2.2 and 38mm K12 TBs. Suffice to say it's all K1100 electronics in K100 clothing but with the mechanicals of a K1200RS. Not new ground, but the garden needs weeding.