I'm trying to remove the air filter box so I can change all the fuel lines. How do I get it out? There is a wire that goes into the top of the air box and the other end goes straight into the wiring loom so it can't be disconnected from the outside. Any advise appreciated!

Flip off the holding clamps. #3 in top pic.
Lift the top half to give access to the filter cartridge.
Take out the air filter.
The lower part of the box screws to the engine.
Undo the screws and remove the lower part.
Look at the lid. You can see the connection to the shiney AFM.
Undo connection and voila.
May be an easier way, but this works for me.

I'd forgotten how large the air filters were in the K. The one in my R-series is only a quarter the size.

You get some amazing things on the filter sometimes. One time I took the filter out for cleaning I found a dessicated dragonfly as large as my hand. After that I put a piece of fly-screen over the end of the snorkel.

Check the video at about 5 minutes.
K75 but air box is just as difficult.

rossco wrote:Flip off the holding clamps. #3 in top pic.
Lift the top half to give access to the filter cartridge.
Take out the air filter.
The lower part of the box screws to the engine.
Undo the screws and remove the lower part.
Look at the lid. You can see the connection to the shiney AFM.
Undo connection and voila.
May be an easier way, but this works for me.

That's what I finally worked out but it took me forever, because I was thinking that the top comes off first! Felt like an idiot fiddling with it for over two hours before being able to remove it.

Right some progress today, finally managed to get the airbox out and do abit of house keeping in that area. I suspect the leak came from the return line from the FPR, it was hard as and the outer casing had delaminated from the inner hose and all the fiber reinforcement was loose. Will put in the new fuel lines tomorrow.

Cleaned the tank and notice there were more little scratches then I thought, but that will be left on the back burner for now. Cleaned up all the goo from the soaked sound damping mat and got rid of most of the glue from the tank pad as it was just about coming off.

Pulled the tank cap off and took it apart and cleaned it all and lubed the spring.

Cleaned the tank opening as well, then siphoned all the remaining gas out of the tank, exactly 2 liters of stale gas. I was pleasantly surprised that the inside of the tank was very clean, no residue and the filter hoses also were supple and looked good, so I will leave it for now. I put Vaseline on the rubber and put the cover back on.

Sadly, the battery which I thought was fully charged is dead, dead, dead! it was registering .036 volts!!!!!!! So that gets added to the shopping list too.

Question - do I try to start her before changing the oil or should I just change the oil and oil filter now?

What is the flavor of the month for engine oil?

Oil filter?

Oh and a question about the sump plate. Does the gasket or o ring for the sump cover need to be replaced?

What about coolant?

Talking about coolant, when I transported the bike all the cooling system hoses were undone and a little bit of water, rust colored came out of the block when I backed the trailer up the slope of my drive. I intend to flush the block and while I'm at it I will back flush the radiator as well.

Don't think I will get to ride it before the weekend

First, thank you for the information shared in this thread. It was very helpful in my efforts to remove the airbox on my K100. However, I have run into a stripped out hex screw in the back of the bottom portion of the airbox. So far I have not been able to get it to budge. There is some slight rust to the head of the screw and washer and it is stuck good. 

Any suggestions as to how I might remove this screw? It's in such a tight space making very difficult to access.

I started reading this thread a few minutes ago and thought...the most difficult part is the hex screws at the bottom....not the MAF. Seems you met the same problem I did. And also wisely replaced the fuel lines and I would advise anyone buying a K to do that job, also replace the crankcase ventilation hose. Both easy enough with the air box off.

I did not get mine off because I decided not to risk rounding the screw. But I do have it on my list for early in the year.

So, would a good dose of WD40 be a help?

KOneNTx wrote:First, thank you for the information shared in this thread. It was very helpful in my efforts to remove the airbox on my K100. However, I have run into a stripped out hex screw in the back of the bottom portion of the airbox. So far I have not been able to get it to budge. There is some slight rust to the head of the screw and washer and it is stuck good. 

Any suggestions as to how I might remove this screw? It's in such a tight space making very difficult to access.

Hi

If me I would be soaking it overnight in Penetration oil at best, crc or wd40 at worst.

Next day: Is an Impact Screw driver usable, maybe with an extension on it. If not are you able to get a long stemmed screw driver (a GOOD quality one) and a (say 3lb) mallet and use your wrist power to turn it with, like an impact driver would

Failing all of that the only thing I can suggest is drilling the top off then using maybe a small pipe wrench or vise grip on the bolt stem once you remove the box

Alheng wrote:Question - do I try to start her before changing the oil or should I just change the oil and oil filter now?

What is the flavor of the month for engine oil?

Oil filter?

Oh and a question about the sump plate.  Does the gasket or o ring for the sump cover need to be replaced?

What about coolant?

If me, I would change the oil and filter FIRST, prior to starting, and the coolant, and do not attempt to start the bike on anything less than a fully charged battery

Oil is 20/50 for me but depends on your outside operating temp. There are numerous threads here on oil but the best advise I have found is in the chart from the Haynes workshop manual. If you google "k100 owners manual pdf" it is usually on google within the first few listings

Coolant is just the same as a car - 30/70 antifreeze. I just use standard the standard stuff but there are many opinions on it. Make up your own mind as you read the varuious threads

The search function at the top of this forum is AMAZINGLY USEFUL

and if you know how to use that then you won't have to post very often here but just do a little reading instead.

The o'ring is reusable until showing signs of flattening. I use a little silicone on the rim of the plate as a precaution

there has always been the merit of a good hard tap or two (maybe 6 or 7 )  on the head of the bolt

the heat generated by the effort will often ..loosen the galling of the steel to aluminium thread binding ...perhaps a good fitting 3/8 socket adaptor (6mm fitting ) in the affected bolt and a damn decent hammer might persuade the thing to turn ....keep in mind that I have found that tightening the bolt ....after a failed undoing process ...can often help to break the binding ....

good luck !!

Try driving a torx bit into the stripped out hole. The 6mm hex will have a corresponding torx that when driven in will almost certainly get the bolt out, not real sure but I think it's a torx 35 bit that fits.

RicK G wrote:Try driving a torx bit into the stripped out hole. The 6mm hex will have a corresponding torx that when driven in will almost certainly get the bolt out, not real sure but I think it's a torx 35 bit that fits.

torx = star drive security screw?

When I saw the title of this thread I got excited.

Ok guys, so I spent some time this morning attempting to remove the stripped hex screw inside the air box and have had no luck. I managed to carve out a slot in the head of the bolt with a dremel tool with a small metal cutting disc on it without cutting into the air box itself at all. I was able to fit the largest flat head impact driver I have into the slot perfectly and slipped a lead pipe through the frame and wire harness from the top view to strike the impact driver with a hammer. It seemed to be functional. After giving it a few good licks we discovered it had twisted my impact driver bit some in the process, but the bolt didn't budge at all. Stuck. 

Do you guys think this is an indication that I just have a cheap piece of crap impact driver, or is this thing really that stuck? I am thinking my last remaining option is the extraction route, but I need an extension for my drill to be able to reach it and I don't have anything like that at the moment. 

I have had it soaking in penetrating oil all day and am hoping that helps loosen it up enough to give it a turn later on. 

Any other suggestions? What exactly are torx bits? The same as an impact driver or something different?

KOneNTx wrote:Do you guys think this is an indication that I just have a cheap piece of crap impact driver

Any other suggestions? What exactly are torx bits? The same as an impact driver or something different?

Yes you have a really low quality impact driver bit. There is no way in hell a high quality one would give way to screw metal

Torx bits look similar to star drive bits but they are not:

Google is your best friend here but this link will I dee one for you

http://www.unifix.co.uk/sites/default/files/images/products/Torx_Bit_T30_cmyk.jpg

Failing the use of an ezout tool or drilling the head off it as previously suggested you seem to have what I would call a "barstid of a problem".

If me I would probably get so pissed off with it all that I would end up taking the engine out to access the stupid screw and then end up doing a full rebuild while I was there

Some times there is just no other way than the most difficult of all but I seriously hope it does not come to that for you

Thank God you are not me

Alheng

Here's a simple thing to do while you've got the innards strewn about. Replace the crankcase ventilation hose. Nearly guaranty you that age, grime and heat have done it in. If you want smooth firing you'll need it and there's no easier access to it with the airbox removed. One of those cheap little details which prove crucial.  

Here's a pic, courtesy Duck (scroll to 'New Rubber Bits'): http://classickbikes.com/ckb/1.my.k.bikes/10_K75F/k75f.2.features.htm

If you can get a replacement I would be inclined to bust the present box to get at the head of the bolt with some vice grips.

Dear KOneNTx,

Looking at the photo of the impact driver blade... it looks to me as if it was tightening the offending screw, by the shape of the bent blade. My impact driver can be set to loosen OR tighten. Am I imagining things?

Rickmeister.

Rickmeister,

My impact driver can be a bit shady and sometimes changes directions without me knowing. I have considered that to be a possbility, but have the bit in my hand right now and can tell it's twisted left. I think its time to upgrade my impact driver.

Trouble is that working space is extremely tight. I thought of cutting the box off too, since I have a spare. Will see how you guys get on with that screw because I felt is was nearly impossible.

what about one of those stud twister things, the ones with the toothing that tightens up when you turn it to undo a bolt or stud, now if only I could remember what they are called.

K75cster wrote:, now if only I could remember what they are called.

Stud extractor?

I've used this with good results...

Inge K. wrote:

K75cster wrote:, now if only I could remember what they are called.

Stud extractor?

My wife used one of those to destroy my bachelor status.

Tis good you blokes have a memory that's the gadget. hope there is room to use it