Hi Guys

i am having a prob with the gear position switch

earlier this year the nutral light stopped working and the position indicator would only show 4,5 and blank so 2nd gear would show 5 neatral,4 and so on ,just rebuilt the motor and installed a new indication switch between swing arm and g/box,making sure it was weather tight

that was fine for a week or so and now its gone back to the 4&5 stage with no neatral light ,thinking it may be in the dash,i hard wired all those stupid spade connectors (thinking there may be a bad contact)but still stink having to pull in the clutch to start her

any ideas,i just am out of ideas

Tony

This link could maybe become useful.

Inge K.

pretty weird hot seat ....it doesnt even seem to follow the truth table for 1 connector being open ...

unless its the brown wire and getting feedback from other switch positions.... verry weird

we have seen crushed cables in here and i wonder if this is something you could chase through the loom but also that type of 4 pin connector that plays up periodically ...deoxit ?

Disconnect the four pole connector, at the harness connector...ground the three different yellow/xxxxx wires
at a good ground point in the different config. as in the scheme.
(I`ll guess you could have a bad connection at the yellow/white wire).

Next step would be to check the multiconnectors behind the instrument and contuinity between this and
the four pole connector.

If still no joy............next chapter would be inside the instrument......tomorrow........it`s to late.

Inge K.

ok i will check the continity of the loom between the 4 pin connector and multi connector behind the instrument panel tomorro

i may well bypass the 4 pin connector completely

i have already hard wired all the spade connectors in the instrument pannel

will get back on my progress

Thanks for the ideas guys

Tony

In another forum, a couple of weeks ago it was a similar issue...but that indicator didn`t show anything
at all in the instrument panel.

It ended up with to loose tension on the female connectors at the four pole plug.

How that fellow carry out, you can read about at the end of this thread.

Inge K.

Ok an update and findings

there is no continuity between brown and yellow/white wire.which takes out 1,N,2,3,that is why i can only get 4&5,which is the outer most conductor ring in the switch , ok so taking the old switch apart which gave me the same greaf,the outer ring spring loaded connector had a fried spring ,hence the non operation of the old unit(could only show 4&5 on that unit also) so i guess the same has happened on the new switch

???? is there enough amperage going down to the switch to fry the little compression spring or is it just coincidence that both switches failed the same way,i don't want the pleasure in installing ANOTHER switch to go pop,they an't cheap or easy to get to !!!!!!!

We should speak about mA`s here....it isn`t just corrosion that have chewed up your spring(s)?
Don`t know this circuit in detail...it could there is installed diodes at the board in the signal output circuit....just in case.

If so disconnect the instrument connector and check your yellow/white wire for short...the eventually
short could also be within the instrument (less chance).....and periodically...difficult to trace.

Inge K.

Measure the volts at the four pin connector, I would expect to see 5-6 volts for that type of circuit but at the least an even voltage on all three yellows.
If one of the yellows had a significantly higher voltage than the other two then that will be where the problem is. Is there any chance you fried a component with the heat of the soldering iron when you hard wired the four pins in the instrument panel

Are you sure the small spring has fried because I certainly wouldn't expect there to even be the possibility of enough current to do that. It works on very low current like probably below 1 milliamp. If it is fried you have futher issues in the instruments or the loom and the switch is a victim of the real problem.
Have you tested the system by joining the various yellows to the brown earth in the right combinations to give the correct readings.

i soldered/hardwire the connectors in the instrument panel after the fault happened,and no i'm not sure of a fryup it may have just colapsed (the darn thing is so small i'm afraid it may just float away !!

i have tried to get some Ma from the 4 pin and no readings ,dead as, that is the instrument fm side (but i am no sparky) still lost

it might be worth while measuring between all the connectors at the 4 pole plug comming from the instrument cluster .

1>look for a short to earth on each of the cables ... use ohms (0-1 meg ohm) ... red cable to earth when measuring the resistance

then do the same with volts (dc 0-20).ignition on of corse

black probe to earth when measuring the volts .

i figure the brown cable should be earth ...if the colour scheme is consistent

look for any discrepancies between each of the return signal cables and earth .

i believe they would feed straight to a display driver for driving the lcd ....there may have been a open circuit occur between the pins internally to the instrument cluster ....its a ribbon type film that connects from the instrument header pins to the ic and lcd module ? quite possibly the ribbon bonding has broken contact to the pins ? or just corrosion around the driver chip ?

i have an idea that the high content silver repair fluid ( for fixing rear heater demistors on cars ) might help resolve this issue if you find an open circuit between the connectors and the electronics ...(just a smear-drop ...verry carefully not to bridge different connections may be required )

just a suggestion

thanks Charlie

not being much of an electrician my plan of attack is now i have the old switch apart and found the bung spring i will repair the old unit ,plug it in and see what happens.if it all comes back then its the switch if not Doh