bomber737 wrote:
Now I am trying to replace the fork seals and I can't find/figure out how/where the retainer clip is.

 It isn't any retainer clip(s) above the seal(s) on a -85.

You got me on that one, I had someone do my forks, too complicated for me and my BP wouldn't take that one. 

I used the same paint, only in grey and semi-gloss black for the motor and side covers.

bomber737 wrote:I stand corrected, not being seen applies to pedestrians and other bikes as well.  
This is a Shorts.  It's the box the airplane came in.
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Don't you just love the Shorts. They are built very near to Comberjohn! We had them as commuter plans for a long time, you could land them in a field. A good flying bus as we called it.

My memory of them is the vibration, when the engines were started, increasing until the point you felt it was going to fall apart when it would start to move. After that is was fine. I had a funny flight one night sitting beside a grumpy Englishman who complained about it as being crap Irish airlines. He soon quitened down when told it was a UK aircraft and far better (impeccable) safety record than the UK Comet he was clearly familiar with. My brother in law used to fly them too but moved on to the BAC-111 and the B737.

I did like flying the Shorts.  I would take that through weather I would not other planes.  Most of the time is because it could not get high enough to get above any weather.  I more often than not got below the weather and picked my way between rain shafts. In the winter when we iced up the props would fling it off and hit the fuselage.  Sounded like someone was shooting at us, unless you spun the prop's faster.  Thats usually what I did and they threw the ice off much better.   I did not fly the BAC-111 my company only flew it for 2 years before replacing it with the BAE-146.  I flew that for as year before I got put on the Canadair.

I loved the 146, quiet, slow, climbed like crazy and the personal transport of the Queen.  Good enough for her good enough for me.  I used to fly it into Aspen Colorado on a daily basis.  We could even land going the wrong direction.  If your don't know about Aspen you usually land one way and takeoff the other.  The 146  was one of the only planes that could turn inside the valley.  It was another find English product.  I am also currently flying the Boeing 737 and will probably die/retire flying the 737.  

Getting back to the project, I have pulled the last clutch part and I am getting ready to install the new main shaft seal.  They look completely different and I am not sure if I want to install it.  

New seal

Old Seal

I have cleaned and inspected the mating surfaces around the output shaft and they look great.  

I did wind up having to use a gear puller to get the last part of the clutch out.  It was not moving no matter what I put behind it to pry it forward.  One thing that concerns me is that the piece in the center of the shaft.  While I was pulling the clutch off the shaft with the puller I heard a pop and found that the center part has slid back into the shaft about 2mm as you can see in the pictures.  Is this going to be a problem?  Do I need to pull it back flush with the end of the shaft?

With the clutch carrier you need to get the old O-ring out first, I use a small blade screwdriver sharpened to a chisel point and cut it into 4-5 bits and then stab each piece with a scribe and out it comes, then the carrier just slides out.
Pushing the spigot bush in 2mm wont hurt as the clutch release pushrod goes in about 25mm.

You are lucky to get it off even with a puller they can be very stubborne if you dont get the O-ring out first.

I found that with a new pliable O-ring you can get them out by using a piece of 0.9mm mig wire and stab it and then turn it round till it catches the thread and it will screw off, but it isn't easy

That seal will be fine the one you removed is an aftermarket seal with a dust lip.

Thanks for the idea, I get the old o-ring out.  And I plan on putting the new seal in tomorrow I just have to get a piece of wood to set it flush.  Every thing is all ready for reassemble, I am just waiting for the rest of the parts I ordered and I just found out that I ordered throttle cable and clutch cable for a RS and I am using the RT bars so gonna have to call MAX tomorrow and get the correct ones ordered.  It really makes a difference.  I need to pay more attention to what model I am ordering for.   :pale:

I had a few days so a lot more work has been done.  I got most of the parts I have been waiting for so I got the new rear main seal installed and the clutch mounted again.  Feels good to have that done and I marked everything so I really hope its still balanced as it was before.  I installed most of my new radiator hoses but the one that goes through the crank cover has been a pain and it's not in quite yet.  Is there a trick to getting this one in?

I also installed all new fuel lines and clamps.  I got rid of all those crimp clamps BMW used so things should be more secure and leak proof.  I started cleaning up the engine as it was pretty gunky and I really want it to look like the rear end.  I will be painting things in the future as I remove them to replace seals and check the valves.  


I have been asked to let people know what cams I have in this bike but I have sound out that there are no markings on the cams them selves.  It was pointed out that the euro cams came on 85's that did not have the vent at the front of the engine but mine does.  It is blanked off so I am not sure if I have the (hot) euro cams or not.  Any one know if this is true? Or should I just figure I have the same cams as the 86's?


I did start the cleaning up of the top of the engine and I found that one of the connectors on the sensor was not attached and the other one was loose so they got cleaned and tightened.  Along with removing the gunk built up in the castings on the engine.  

My girlfriend helped me get the trany mounted again.  Kinda a pain that was but I did find out that the head bolts from my snowmobile are an exact fit and I used them as guides for the trany when I mounted it.  Worked like a charm and it went on with only a little tweaking of the clutch position.  Now I know for sure the splines are lubricated as they should be.  I think the engine is coming along nicely and I think the next stage will be hit it with a softer wire brush and them protect it. 


I got the frame mounted back on today and started putting the covers back on.  


I also got the new clutch cable installed and run.  I had time so I put the handle bars back on the triples and at least the left side control is back together and ready to go.  I am still waiting for my new throttle cable so I will be installing that prob next week and I can finally get the airbox back together.  I was looking through my parts boxes and I found the other rear diff I have off of my RS.  It has a drilled rotor, is this the way the RS is supposed to be?  The  one on my RT is not.

I also started looking at the 2 gauge clusters I have and they are different.  The one that came off this RT has the 7L and 4L fuel lights but the other one does not.  I am guessing this is from a later year bike?


I have all the service records for the parts bike from the time it had 25,000 miles on it and it did get a new set of gauges in its past as well as a new trany.  I figure no spline lube = new trany.  Can I use the tach from the one set in the other?  The one that is on the bike I am fixing has a bad gear indicator and I would like it to be as nice as possible.  I am planning on drilling a hold in both of them so I don't have problems with condensation in the future.  I will also be following the tutorial adn making sure all the connections are good and clean.  I also noticed that the mounts are different.  The ones from the RT look like factory mounts but the gauges from the RS look to have been modified
Here is the gauges from the RT

Here is the gauges from the parts RS

Sorry, I though I had a better picture of the RS mounts.  Another question I had is I was looking at the radiators and more importantly the fan motors.  One of them spins freely and the other spins but there seems to be some drag in it.  Can you clean (rebuild) these motors?  Should it spin freely or be a little stiff? Can you just test them with a 12V power supply?

The mounts look correct for each.  RT is different than RS.

Now I would try to tell u about the gauges, but I have three of them to make one, that I hope will work.  I do know that almost all the parts interchange, but the 85 cluster is different than later ones, but a little dreimal drilling fixes it up.   The speedo and tach have extra bolt hole on later models.  

The 7l and 4l lights only are needed on the 85 tank, the one with the fuel level up front.  You probably have the 85 style.  I think.

Nice work by the way.  Since you have it that apart, you might look at heat management issues.  Like wrapping the FBR and the fuel lines behind the throttle bodies.  Great time to do that.

I used a little WD and pulled the front water hose from the bottom up.  You are doing great work, it looks fantastic

Getting the hose through the crankcase cover; I use a smear of rubber lube (vaseline petroleum jelly will do) and fold the neck of the pipe to encourage the wider neck to pass through the cover.

If you are going to use a softer wire brush on the cases, try squirting something like WD40 on the cases as you work the brush. It will help to reduce the possibility of scarring and it will lift the particles. Then squirt more WD40 on the cases and wipe clean.

Thanks for the compliment, that means a lot to me coming from some one on this forum.  It will not be a show bike but it will be safe and reliable and as nice as I can make it.  So I should wrap the fuel line coming from the pressure regulator?  Is this correct?  I did not understand what that abbreviation was referring to.  Is there any particular type of insulation you guys use?  It is pretty tight on the back side but if the insulation is thin enough I might be able to get it in there.  I will have to look into the differences between the tach's.  I used the RT triples on the project frame so I will be using the RT gauges.  Both of the tanks I have are 85's so I plan on removing the 7L bulb since there are 1.8 gallons left when it goes off.  I will definitely try spraying WD40 with the softer brush.  I am using a harder brush to remove the thicker grime and oxidation at the moment.  It comes off like dust.  I sit there with a drill in one hand and a vacuum in the other.  Trying to control the mess and the trany made a huge mess with all that corrosion.

Try this for Johnny Blanket:

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=460.0

And then I used the tape "reflectic" around the fuel line coming from the Fuel Regulator (FPR) to the tank and then the one going to Injector line.  I read somewhere that helps keep fuel cool.  I also wrapped the Pressure Regulator with the tape.  Make sure when you re-install the air box to get the foam insulators lined up so they block the hot air from getting to FPR. 

A little scouting around here and on MotoBrick for heat related articles is what I did, since it was all apart anyway.

Got it,  I will certainly look for something to wrap around the fuel line and regulator.  Any one have any ideas about what I should do with the rdiator fans? (see my previous post)  I see he put the blanket round the airbox and engine.  Has anyone tried to just put that blnket under the airbox?  I would think cooler air in the induction system is better than heated air.
 
I was also planning on running the antifreeze they run in high performance dirt bikes.  It is supposed to transmit heat better and keep you cooling system cooler, it says 30 degrees cooler.  .  Has anyone used this stuff?

I would be very sceptical of any product that made a claim like that.
The thermostat should keep the engine at the same predetermined temperature regardless of what coolant you use.
If you find the temperature does drop 30° then you have problems that need addressing not just a different coolant.
If you want to get better cooling then find a 3 row radiator from an early K100 and it will make the world of difference, the needle rarely moves from the normal position on the hottest days and if it starts to get hot round town the fan cuts in and in no time at all its cooled to normal again.  My K1100 always struggled to stay cool in the heat before I put that radiator in and now its a different bike.
I also put a small auto transmission cooler (some use them to cool the power steering fluid) in the return fuel line and the tank never gets past the just warm stage.
The cooler is about 6in x 4in and 3/4in thick and fastenes to the grill with 3 small stainless bolts.  The first ride I did after I put it on was a cold day and I really missed my nice warm tank to keep my knees warm.

Yeah I agree, regular anti freeze 60/40 mix is fine.  If you really want to upgrade try the fan change. I think there is a link here, with a bigger fan.  I never had any trouble with my 89 except when the brushes melted.  Turn the fan blades occasionally.

Ok I was a little concerned about the heat this engine gives off with all the threads about heat control.  I will start looking at the diffeent fan options and at the very least make sure the fans I have work.  I have a 85 Honda VF500 interceptor and it can get hot in the summer but the fan cools that off nicely.  But it does not have such a tight cowling and fairing around everything and I never feel any of the heat comming off it.  I am taking the use the thermal blanket is an attempt to keep the heat away from the rider.  I will still insulate the fuel system as much as I can and see if it gives off to much heat at me this summer.  When its really hot I usually take the windshield off my GS or I ride my Radian.

 I was planning in the future to get the 50amp alternator on this bike. Yes I have been reading up on what I will need for this refit.  I have been kicking the idea of seeing if my 35amp one can be re-wound by a shop my Dad uses for his airplane stuff.   I ride my Suzuki with heated jacket liner, gloves, pants and boot insoles and I would like to ride this bike as well.  I plan on keeping it for a long time and I am going to be reducing the fleet to 4 bikes this summer but I need them all to be capable of keeping me warm when it's cold out.  My girlfriend and I are planning a trip around lake superior this april and I bet it's still cold on the north shore.

I have been down that road of rewinding the stator on the 32A alternators and after many were consulted I came to the conclusion that a OEM 50A was the best way to go.
Some auto electricians told me that it was originally designed to be a 20A unit that was upgraded to 32A and that was as far as it could be taken without getting overheating problems.

Thanks for the information. I guess I will just find a 50A one and get that installed.

I havent had much time to work on the bike lately but I did manage to get the forks rebuilt.  I installed progressive springs in them and I went with red line 10W fork oil.  These forks must have been redone not to long ago since they were quite clean and the oil was still good but I had the time and parts so I did them again anyway.  They still had the stock springs in them though.  I also got them painted so now they match the rear end.  I made the springs the same length as the stock one but I am sure I will have to modify them to get the correct sag.  


I finally got my new throttle cable and got it installed.  Works so much nicer than the old one.  The old grease under the handle bar throttle sleeve had become quite stiff so I pulled, cleaned and regreased that.  Now it works great.  I did have time to get the right side controls re-installed.  I am still not happy with how washed out the colors are and that the lettering is all but worn away.  Not sure what I can do about that though.  I might just have to suck it up and leave  them alone for now.  




Next thing to do is get the fuel lines and regulator insulated so I can get the airbox re-installed and continue cleaning the engine up.  I hope to have that done next week and the rear end and forks re-installed.  I really want to take this bike out to Sturgis this summer and I plan on attending the international BMW MOA rally in St. Paul this summer.

Ya, I don't know how to tell if a bike has the big cam, probably best to compare an early bike with the California model.

Mine has early production numbers (Feb '85) and the 49-states sticker. It came with unpainted front forks, flat foot plates, and clean tail section.

I don't have the time to go to N.Dakota, but if you'd like to meet-up at Laconia and compare notes over a libation I'd be up to that.  

I would be up to meeting for one of those.  Are you planning on going to the rally in St. Paul Minnesota?  I dont know where Laconia is.  I am just east of St. Paul in Wisconsin.   I will be working on the valves in th next 2 months and I plan on measuring the lobes to see what I have.

The only difference is that the inlet valves open 10° later on the smog cams. This keeps the combustion temperature down by effectively lowering the compression and the Nitrogen oxides don't occur in such great abundance and this in turn keeps smog down and people can see further and see just how far the traffic jam extends.

I see, so really there is no way to know unless I pull it out and send it in to someone who can spec it out.  I am not going to do that so what it is it is.  Where I live we don't believe in traffic jams or traffic for that matter, all I see most days are miles of open roads with no hint of smog. But the price I pay for this is a 30 minute drive to get anywhere and if I could I would move farther out.

Works continued these last few days.  I got the swing arm and rear diff re-mounted.  I think it looks great with the new paint.  I also got the tire mounted and decided to go with dyna beads to balance them.  Those things are a pain to get through the inflation stem. I finally used 3 feet of 1/4" fuel line over the stem and poured them very slowly and they all went in.  If you go to fast them plug up and you loose a bunch getting the stem cleared.  


I know someone out there is going to give me crap but I decided to go with a set of Kenda challengers.  I have a set of these on my Suzuki GS1000 and these bikes weigh about the same.  I use the GS for touring and have had it loaded and had no problems with these tires.  So far they have lasted 6500 miles over the last 2 years and are still good for 1 more season.  I will get something different if they seem to wear out faster.  
I am still working on getting the rest of the engine brushed, I think a few more hours and I will be happy.  For the time being I think a coat of autosol will protect the shininess until I can get them painted that is. I installed the side and center stand.   It did need a good bath as it was very dirty but it cleaned up very nicely and the paint was in great shape. 


I have also been busy getting the airbox  back in and the wire loom in the correct place.  I didn't realize I should have installed the foam heat shield before I put the airbox back on so off it will have to come again.  That thing is very cumbersome to deal with so I hope it will go in and not brake.  I also installed the inner fender and was working on the rear fairing before I realized I need to get the pegs back on to get that finished.

Looking good Bomber, keep at it , not far to go now

More work done, I got the exhaust re-mounted and rear brake pegs as well.
I did look at the heat shield and it is solid and I don't think it will rattle but you never know.   I did forget how large the caliper was so I had to remove the rear tire again to get it on but it's done now.  I found that the brake pedal was bent to I got a replacement off of fleabay.  I also got the luggage mounts installed and now the rear fairing is finally tightened down.  I did have a pleasant surprise when I was digging through my parts boxes.  I found that I have a progressive rear shock so I got that installed.  Yeah that saved me $300 or so. 
Moving on to the front end I installed the forks, front wheel and brakes.  I thought I was going to leave the reflectors off but I found one of those in the boxes.  Now all I have to do is bleed the front and rear brakes and that's done.  Thanks to a member of the forum I got a fork brace but that is not snugged up yet until I see how the forks move.  

I think the new paint on the fork lowers really makes it look great.  Since I was on the front end I mounted the fairing mount and trial fitted it.  It needed a little tweaking and the horns were kinda a pain to get installed but they work.  I wound up using the harness from the RS to make the horns work and front signals.  The RT harness didn't have the correct ends for the lights.  I am also going to use a wire and spring on the inside of the fairing to help secure the mirror housings to the fairing.  it works great on my snowmobile so it should work on this to.  


I know the paint is not the best but that will be a project for next winter.  Spring is right around the corner and I want to have this on the road as soon as the snow is gone.  On with the search for mounts for the fairing lowers and I found all but 1. I also got the radiator fairing installed.  The screen was not the best so i took the one off the RT fairing which was in much better shape and in it went.  

I have been having my daughters most of the week so I have not had time to work on the bike but I have started tearing apart both of my gauge clusters.  What a mess I have going on on the kitchen table.  Ah the joys of not having a wife.  My kitchen table used to be my carb rebuild bench until my kids complained.  I guess they will have to get over the gauges being on there for now. 
I have 2 sets of gauges so I can pick the best parts for the RS I am building.  I was not happy with the broken gear indicator in the gauges so I decided to swap the good one I have to go in the set I will be using on this bike.  

I then moved on to the spedo and found that both had bad gears so apart they came and I managed to get 1 good set for the spedo I will be calibrating this week.  

Good set of gears installed and ready for calibration. 
I also ordered a new set of gears.  I cant believe how easy it is to roll back the miles on a K.  I found that the 4L plastic piece was shorter than it should have been and glued in to the spot.  I will have to get a new one of those.  I am also planning on putting LED bulbs in the whole cluster.  I ordered 20 off of ebay for $15.  The bulbs for the turn signal are different and I already have LED's for those.  I am not worried about hyper flashing because I still have incandescent bulbs in the signals.  
I have one 9 screw cluster rear housing and one 6 screw.  I will be using the 9 screw housing on the build bike.  It also has 2 vents already in it so I wont have to drill any holes.  

bomber737 wrote:More work done, I got the exhaust re-mounted and rear brake pegs as well.
I did look at the heat shield and it is solid and I don't think it will rattle but you never know.

No, no, no. The old "flat" foot plates are a rattle trap. You'll need blue lock tight to keep those bolts on the heat shield--or loose them (like I did). The old style double-bolt muffler transmits vibes thoughout the rear of the bike (the nuts on my rear brake light even came loose and caused the lens to crack. Now I mount it with rubber washers so it floats--no troubles man).

There's a fix, a triangle-shaped hard rubber mount ('85-on) that screws into the two small bolt holes normally used for the pannier brackets. You'd save a lot of time/frustration by obtaining one of those and do away with the two big bolts that connect the muffler to the foot plate.

AJ.Valente wrote:No, no, no. The old "flat" foot plates are a rattle trap. You'll need blue lock tight to keep those bolts on the heat shield--or loose them (like I did). The old style double-bolt muffler transmits vibes thoughout the rear of the bike (the nuts on my rear brake light even came loose and caused the lens to crack. Now I mount it with rubber washers so it floats--no troubles man).

There's a fix, a triangle-shaped hard rubber mount ('85-on) that screws into the two small bolt holes normally used for the pannier brackets. You'd save a lot of time/frustration by obtaining one of those and do away with the two big bolts that connect the muffler to the foot plate.

Wait a minute. There's a possible remedy for this???

Seriously, please spell this out more clearly for me, as I'd really like to do your suggested mod. Part #?(s), diagram? Anything.

Vibrations are eliminated simply by hanging the muffler from the foot plate.   

I upgraded my foot plates last winter and took a few pics. Note the hard rubber hanger (right) attaches to the two small bolts normally used by the pannier frame (stand-offs here where the frame normally would be). The bottom of the hanger then bolts to the ridge on the muffler. 

Have never tried the hanger with the flat foot plates as you are using, but assume since there are stand-offs between the foot plate and the hanger itself, it should work.

For the time being it wil have to go with what I have and modify as the funds become avaliable.  If you change out the foot peg mounts and modify the muffler mount can you still use the mount for the saddle bags?  I plan on using this bike for touring and I would rather not have to use my soft sided bags.  The pictures are a little small for me to see the rubber spacer.  

So if I get what you are saying is that I sould remove the bolts holding the heat shield down and lock tight them?

If you gonna do this mod, be aware that the bracket on the silencer is different.
As you gonna have panniers on.....it's a different rubber mount than w/o, (Width).

Inge K. wrote:If you gonna do this mod, be aware that the bracket on the silencer is different.
As you gonna have panniers on.....it's a different rubber mount than w/o, (Width).

Inge, I was planning on using this mount for panniers too. My thought is that the stand-offs just come  right off and the bracket goes right in. Are you saying I'll have to get another rubber mount??

Bomber: Ya, you'll need to lock-tight them shield bolts. If the shield still rattles consider packing in some steel wool between the shield and muffler (as seen elsewhere on this board).

AJ.Valente wrote:

Inge K. wrote:As you gonna have panniers on.....it's a different rubber mount than w/o, (Width).

Inge, I was planning on using this mount for panniers too. My thought is that the stand-offs just come  right off and the bracket goes right in. Are you saying I'll have to get another rubber mount??

Or remove the same amount of material from the two spigots, as the thickness of the z-frame.

IngeK wrote, "Or remove the same amount of material from the two spigots, as the thickness of the z-frame."

Thanks, that's what I planned on.  

I will lock tight the heat shield bolts but the one on my bike does not rattle at all.  I actually like the look of the muffler with out it.  But with my luck one of my daughters will slip and get a burn on their leg and that will be it for riding the K

bomber737 wrote:I will lock tight the heat shield bolts but the one on my bike does not rattle at all.  

I use a small dab of blue loctite but a couple of alternatives are wave washers or star washers, both help prevent the screws vibrating loose.

MikeP wrote:

 a couple of alternatives are wave washers

Which also is mounted from factory.

Inge K. wrote:

MikeP wrote:

 a couple of alternatives are wave washers

Which also is mounted from factory.

Yes but they often get left off (or crumble away with corrosion) when an owner decides to remove the heat shield for some reason.

I should also have said that star washers tend to cut through the finish and encourage the corrosion that eats away at the mounting points of the (poorly) finished heat shield.

Motobins do stainless crush washers.

Bomber, Also, check out my latest thread on RT Ergonomics and Handlebar Adjustment here: https://www.k100-forum.com/t7703-k100rt-ergonomics-and-handlebar-adjustments

Riding the RT is smooth and quiet, but many people set the handlebars too high causing much wind noise at speed. The RT windscreen requires the handlebars be set below the level of the mirrors (makes sense too). If you can see your hands in the mirrors, then the bars are too high (rule of thumb).

Enjoy the ride.

-AJ

MikeP wrote:

Inge K. wrote:

MikeP wrote:

Which also is mounted from factory.

Yes but they often get left off (or crumble away with corrosion)

The OEM washers is stainless AISI A6.

Hi

Can you please tell me what type of wire brush did you use to clean the drivetrain.
Thanks

I used a stiff bristled round brush first to remove the corrosion and then went to a soft copper brush to finish the job.  I got them at harbor freight and used my hand held drill.

I finally got back to the K. I wired up the new running brake lights. I did this by soldering the 2 leads from the new lights together with a 3rd wire as a pig tail. I crimped a male connector to each set of 3 wires and pluged them into the wires that used to go to power the light. I crimped female connectors to the pig tail and attached them into the light bulb socket.



I really like the way they look and I think I am more visible with the light cluster like it is now. I think I will start looking for some strip lights to add to the brakeing light. 


I had some time so I got the rear diff oil changed and the engine oil. I still need to do the trany, maby tomorrow but it is supposed to be 70 up here in da nort so I might be riding one of my other bikes. 

I also got the power cord for my battery tender installed and mounted. So now I wont have to pull it next winter.

good work there ..!!

yeah the rear lamps do kinda get lost in the darkness ...looking at alternatives as well ...just  cant find exactly what I want yet .

bomber737 wrote:
I also got the power cord for my battery tender.

I've got a cigarette lighter receptacle atop the coil cover. This year I cut and spliced battery tender leads (same as you have shown) onto the end of the wires using single receptacle blade connectors (reversing the male-female order on the wires to prevent cross-wiring).

The charger cable now routes from the cigarette lighter straight across the bike to the other side, then wraps around the relay box before connecting to the battery. The blade connectors are located just behind the right trim panel, so all I do now is pop the panel off, disengage the connectors, and reconnect the charger.

That sounds like a good idea.  i just wire tied the connector to the frame right behind the coils.  With the side cover on you can barely see it and it is easily accessible.  I try and not take my side covers off as much as I can.  I have broken way to many of those mounting tabs off in the past.  I dont know why none of the bike manufacturers beef up the area behind them.  

I have been away from the project for some time now and I finally got the time to get some final things done.  I filled and checked all the fluids and made sure there was new lube in the diff, trany, and engine.  I also filled up the anti-freeze so I know that at least that has new stuff.  I have been thinking about the problem with the rear view mirror falling off with a good jolt is I have engineered what I hope will be a viable solution.  On my snowmobiles they mount the rear view mirrors with a threaded rod and spring on the back side so if you hit something it lets the mirror lay back against the hood and all you have to do is snap it back upright and it goes back in place.  I figure this should work on the bike as well.  I drilled a hole in the thickest part of the mirror housing and I put a cable through it.  I also drilled a hole through the mount.  On the back side I put a spring, washer and cable clamp.  Here are all the parts I used.  

I got it all at the local hardware store and I think I spent 5 bucks in all.  The end of the cable is secured with a cable crimp and you just hammer it tight then I used a screw driver to make sure it was clamping well.  

You feed the cable through the mirror mount and on the back side your put a spring, washers and a cable clamp so you can loosen it up if you want to remove them in the future.  


I used springs that are not the stiffest so they should have some give in them and not brake the mirror if it gets hit.  I think it should work great.  Now I will be taking the bike out side for the first time and firing it up so keep you fingers crossed it starts.  I will also be syncing the throttle bodies.
I also got the seat mounted, not so sure I like it but time will tell if I go back to the stock one of keep this corbin on the bike.  


I will definitely have to get some vynl dye or paint to make it look better.

It lives, I just got took it outside and after a few moments of cranking it fired right to life.  It sounds great and it didn't require much choke at all and no choke a few minutes after that.  I synced the throttle bodies and the thing idles like a champ.  I did notice that when you rev it up a little the levels are not even.  Has anyone ever messed with the butterflies at higher rpm's?  I usually sync my jap bikes at idle then rev them up to 5000 and resync them there since thats where They run on the highway.  One thing that has changed is the bike is not charging and it did before I tore it down.  Any suggestions where I should start to fix that problem?  I do not have the gauges on the bike yet.  My father just got home and I will be calibrating the spedo on monday.  I will post the link to the youtube video of the 2nd start later tonight.