Yep 100year old houses have 100year old stumps. Looks like they lasted well though.
Did you find that guy in the blue and yellow shirt under there as well but he doesn't look 100 year old.

Halo wrote:Working on the house today as well look what I found with the foundations in the corner when I went to lay insulation under the floor boards back to the drawing board @@&*#@!!!!

Got a similar problem 2 years ago.
I found part of the seal plate (wood resting on the concrete foundation) rotten. It ended that the whole house had to be lifted to completely replace the plate.
The problem was the land had been filled to high, and the seal plate was in ground.

Your paint job looks terrific.

CF

Yes his feeling it today Rick G oh well old houses and old bikes gotta love it, bring it on

Thanks CF yes I do like the KBS paints and my new best friend the spray gun I bought recently, it does require alot of cleaning though. I'm thinking the gloss will settle abit when the bike eventually gets some use. Boy oh boy CF I bet that was no fun at all for you, houses hey.

looking verry nice indeed

Halo, you dill!

It can't go back in like that! It's upside down.

I'm getting tired keeping an eye on you lot.

You didn't see Charlies oil leak did ya did ya did ya

Thanks Blakey I might have ended up with 1 forward gear and five reverses

That only happens if you put the rear drive on the front

really?

Of coarse the rear drive goes on the front otherwise it would get in the way of the chain and sprocket on the back

Rick G wrote:That only happens if you put the rear drive on the front

Also possible if you mount the gearchange pedal upside down.

Nice KBS paints
Was this



Now this

sweeeeet !

Wow I performed what I consider the corect setup for the painting looked good even 6hrs after but look what happened after 2 days.





I heated the room to 25 dec C I only used the amount of thinners as instructed, awaited until the paint was at least touch dry before recoats.

What now ? can I just spray it with stripper and start again:( If you look at the picture last post it looks great

Before you sprayed it, did you use a surface cleaner prior to applying the paint? another possibility is that the paint went on to thick which caused it, to little air flow or wanting a bit more thinners...

Thats all i can think of...

a similar thing happened to me ...but after using the clearcoat over the painted section halo

i was peeved

twincarb wrote:Before you sprayed it, did you use a surface cleaner prior to applying the paint? another possibility is that the paint went on to thick which caused it, to little air flow or wanting a bit more thinners...

Thats all i can think of...

I agree...it looks like you used the wrong primer or most likely the surface was not clean...ask me how I know

Looks very similar to the problems I had with the KBS. :-( My best explanation is that it's very particular about surface preparation and primer.

OG

Thanks guys you all seem to be in agreement so I will try a different primer approach OG you did hint at this didn't you. Don't understand why the clear coat was so successful though, mybe it has a different make up?. Anyway so much for the water/oil pump rebuild this weekend I will get to the bottom of the KBS instead.

Anyone know of a good surface prep product? I was thinking of just etch primer this time, all I did was spray over the KBS clear coat last time.

Thanks Guys

KBS do an engine paint called Motor Coater enamel. I think it is what i am going to try using for the black parts of my bike. I would avoid having the lacquer as an under coat as that could potentially cause a problem mind.

There are wipes on the market for preping the surface of the paint once it has been keyed. I guess one deccision you need to make is wether to strip the paint all the way back.... Soda Blaster?! I am not sure if it could reoccur if you were to just rub it down and then go for the primer and then paint on top...

Yes thanks Twinbarb the clear first was a mistake though made sence at the time as I had to have this part on to spray the rest of the engine or so I thought. Soda blaster wont do this I will have to try a paint stripper and start from scratch, Twincarb do you know if it is safe to ues paint stripper on aluminium parts?

Halo

Yep, mate same conclusion I came to. Must be very different base formulations. I ended up using the Eastwwod PRE and a virgin microfiber to make certain everything was sanitary, than ceramic primer and finally the KBS. Very high PITA factor, but if you get it right it does seem to be quite tough...

OG

Yes thanks OG see you can't bet the wisdom of an OldGoat can you !. OG what do you think of paint remover and alumium parts?

Halo

I know that Nitromers which is a well used paint stripper over here isnt particualy good on car paints! and i think thats the general conscencious with most chemical strippers....

Because it is going to be painted black would sand blasting be a better idea? other than that using a "flapper" wheel to strip it off would work but getting into all the groves and crannys will be a PITA!

Any "Aircraft" paint remover or one that states safe for aluminum and you're good to go mate.

Thanks OG and twincarb, will try the sandblasted first what a big job

Bummer Halo. It looked so good on the first pics. It's only a minor setback in the overall scheme of the restoration.
88

Yes thanks 88ke

I wouldn't worry about using paintstripper, Halo, it's not going to be soaking in it for weeks on end and if it eats into the surface, well that's just what etch primer does.
Cheers,
Paul.

Thanks Paul you are correct this is good I shall use the paint stripper then soda blast. Charlie you are correct the Eastwood product that OG uses for his nuts and bolts rust removing that I ordered from the states came up as a dangerous goods purchase and was advised would cost 100s to import so this is a no go purchase, is there a local equivilent guys I am disperate to try ???

To remove rust soak in molassis 10% solution for a few days it works a treat.
Or phosphoric acid but it can be very uneven on the corosion and leave pits.

Wow I would never thought thanks shall try What's the other 90% ?

"What's the other 90% ?"

Even if it was 100 year old single malt scotch, I still wouldn't drink it...

Halo wrote:Wow I would never thought thanks shall try What's the other 90% ?

Water

I cleaned out the breather hole today photos tell the tail, found the multi grips with the drill abit gave me the best trade off for feel vs effectiveness.

good job halo ....

it does get pretty sticky and corroded in that little hole eh ?

Stripped and resprayed the sump after the KBS paint didn't like my last primer also placed a new oil level window and are ready for reassembly





Was able to purchase a similar product to OG since I was not able to easily import the one OG used



Seemed to clean up the hardware well

Nice work mate! What primer did you end up using?

OG

Hi OG good to see you back on the forum again, I ended up using the KBS high temperature primer which is what I should have done in the first place, but it's $40 a can!!!.
The stripping was a nightmare, anyway lesson learned. I made two mistakes first was spraying over the KBS clear coat and the second was too thick coats this I believe caused the reaction and bubbling etc
Halo

thick spray layers ....yep i think your right

Yes Charlie well live and learn sures there is plenty more learning to come as well
Halo

No time for bike restore for the next two weeks as in Phuket its not a K100 but still fun

have fun ...!!!

Jeez Halo, you've got room for at least two more people or 1 goat or 10 chickens or 1 pig or...

blakey wrote:Jeez Halo, you've got room for at least two more people or 1 goat or 10 chickens or 1 pig or...

Well now winter is here and its rainning abit I have the perfect excuse to work on the bike in my warm and dry little work shop, the outside of the house can wait till spring. Hope to help hold the candle for OG as well. Refinished the pump again after the first spray issues & the mounting bolts so I can start putting the engine back together, found sandblaster then KBS clear worked the best. Heres to more post from me.

I was ready to put the seal kit from motobins in after reading the chapter on the gearbox rebuild but am wondering if I really need to disturb this part,I inspected the old seals which look ok (however how do I really no until the bike runs which I havent seen going yet), but am really interested to know your thoughts.

dang ...looking good halo

Thanks Charlie got any idea about the gearbow question ?. I am also am getting ready to replace the final drive seals. I was interested in looking at the final drive pinion (the final drive assembly that connects to the drive shaft) but the Haynes manaul says not a part to touch for the home machanic. Is this true ?



I have cleaned up the swing arm & drive shaft as well and will srpay with the KBS clear as well as the gearbox & final drive this weekend.

The engine has now been all torqued up as per the manual with the the various locktite compounds along the way so I am ready for the TBS and hoses etc to go on.