good onya alby

wish I could weld ...

lessons this year I guess

keep at it mate , we need to see the new fairing on the beast ...and a happy face of nic in the sidecar ....heading down the road ....psssst  you better build a semi  lay down body in that thing ....with reading lamps huh ?!!!
 I can sand stuff .....

charlie99 wrote:good onya alby

 I can sand stuff .....

  

For those adjustable links I would use a piece of hollow bar and tap a thread into each end. If you want to save a bit of weight turn a few mm of the outside at the centre of the bar out to the ends less 1 inch from the bottom of each thread.

Keep at it Alby and you'll soon be able to join the elite.   

16mm will be plenty strong enough for your fixings, mine has been hanging on with 4, 12mm bolts for the past 25 years!

Paul.

Finally got my tie rods   even though they had two goes at it again this time!!!  16mm Rose Joints. 3mm wall RHS same as the subframe with 6mm steel plate should be a bit more than a rubbish mount.

I am just going to keep trying to get something done each week while I can. 

Any body feel like sanding back a sidecar for me???........anyone...hello!! Guys!!!

Know the feeling, all those things you wanna do and as soon as you start you have to stop.

Good work Alby, The journey of a thousand kms starts with the first step! You are way past that step 

  Keep at it mate. Patiently waiting to see your rig. Do it right first time, I'm sure you are!

G

woohoo
looking good alby

you want help with  that bit ,,,, sander packed

be there soon

took some paint off the frame parts of the sidecar

found some rust in a couple of places ..but on the whole looking in good order


alby recons most of the panel paint will come off with a good gurney

another step closer

sun everywhere ....great day for a ride and spent some time with a mate

Thanks for the visit and the help Charlie..  i will be in touch during the week.

The original color is almost as 'different' as this one.

Yep! Funny colour it is Bert.    Whos going to pinch that????

Found this Subframe Mount Page  thought it might save some stuffing around for a few Aussies.  I am going to order a part or two and see what they are like.

Saxon7 wrote:Interesting. I have been of the opinion that something up forward and high is necessary. Do you not get any flex in direction changes or right handers? ( Sidecar being on the left which is right)
Perhaps the front piece you have at the engine mounts counters this at that juncture?
I have a thing on mine where in directional changes in say, roundabouts where you go left, right under throttle and then back to left, still under throttle, the bike feels like there is flex and the bike itself leans further left into the right hand part of the exercise. Any thoughts on this? Maybe I need something in that area as a kind of damper...or to add rigidity?
Schoorn.

On my first K100/HRD sidecar (that did have a very hard life with lots of off road excursions even before I got it).  The outer (right hand) frame downtube snapped above the engine mount. I still believe this was due to the frame above engine flexing because of lateral stress from the sidecar.  I've heard of others also.  my current one has a mount at the steering head and the feel is very different with no flex.

Al

sounds like you're back in the swing of things Alby, thats great.
thanks for the Page, I'm currently reading through the trailer info.
I spent the day sizing up Rendrags towbar,it has opened up some interesting thoughts.
 thanks again and good luck with your mountings.

AL-58 wrote:

Saxon7 wrote:Interesting. I have been of the opinion that something up forward and high is necessary. Do you not get any flex in direction changes or right handers? ( Sidecar being on the left which is right)
Perhaps the front piece you have at the engine mounts counters this at that juncture?
I have a thing on mine where in directional changes in say, roundabouts where you go left, right under throttle and then back to left, still under throttle, the bike feels like there is flex and the bike itself leans further left into the right hand part of the exercise. Any thoughts on this? Maybe I need something in that area as a kind of damper...or to add rigidity?
Schoorn.

On my first K100/HRD sidecar (that did have a very hard life with lots of off road excursions even before I got it).  The outer (right hand) frame downtube snapped above the engine mount. I still believe this was due to the frame above engine flexing because of lateral stress from the sidecar.  I've heard of others also.  my current one has a mount at the steering head and the feel is very different with no flex.

Al

The EML bert has is mounted at the base of the steering head and the Kneeler outfits for racing we used to put a tube directly to the steering head and brace it back to the left or right side of the top tube of the perimiter frame round the engine. I saw quite a few home built kneelers that had a frame built for the basic bike and then the platform tacked onto the side and they would always crack up and usually on the front top tubes.
That mount takes an enormous amount of stress when you go into a right hand corner with the chair on the left and vice versa.

RicK G wrote:

AL-58 wrote:

Saxon7 wrote:Interesting. I have been of the opinion that something up forward and high is necessary. Do you not get any flex in direction changes or right handers? ( Sidecar being on the left which is right)
Perhaps the front piece you have at the engine mounts counters this at that juncture?
I have a thing on mine where in directional changes in say, roundabouts where you go left, right under throttle and then back to left, still under throttle, the bike feels like there is flex and the bike itself leans further left into the right hand part of the exercise. Any thoughts on this? Maybe I need something in that area as a kind of damper...or to add rigidity?
Schoorn.

On my first K100/HRD sidecar (that did have a very hard life with lots of off road excursions even before I got it).  The outer (right hand) frame downtube snapped above the engine mount. I still believe this was due to the frame above engine flexing because of lateral stress from the sidecar.  I've heard of others also.  my current one has a mount at the steering head and the feel is very different with no flex.

Al

The EML bert has is mounted at the base of the steering head and the Kneeler outfits for racing we used to put a tube directly to the steering head and brace it back to the left or right side of the top tube of the perimiter frame round the engine. I saw quite a few home built kneelers that had a frame built for the basic bike and then the platform tacked onto the side and they would always crack up and usually on the front top tubes.
That mount takes an enormous amount of stress when you go into a right hand corner with the chair on the left and vice versa.

Mine is a later version of Berts basically. The guy that built it originally was the EML agent in Aus.  I've had 4 K outfits now, 3 using HRD subframes(which stop at the top engine mounts) and now the Leigh Hollamby/EML.  It has a completely different feel due to the stiffer subframe.

Al

Seeing as I was no longer able to make the Farcairn Rally I decided to make a push on the sub-frame..  and a push it was!!!!

Nic and i fitted the chair up to the spares bike..(whats left of it) along with the rear wheel and I am happy with the outcome.  it is easy to move with one hand..will try to keep moving on flat ground if you push him.. Pushed him around in a circle on full steering lock and ended up about 300mm further out from the marks of where we started. not too bad for a first go. 

The frame is made from 5mm plate steel and 25 x 25 x3mm RHS (cold bent where needed). All brackets for bolt placement are 5mm as well. There is at the moment ten bolt on points for the sub-frame. The four center stand bolts, three foot peg bracket bolts, engine frame mount bolt, three bolts to the sump. The tie rods are 25 x25x3 as well with 16mm rose joints (with 40mm threaded inserts) and left/right hand threads for adjustment. chair is bolted to the subframe with two 19mm bolts and nylocs through 5mm plate brackets. 

We hope to fit the park brake this week. just got to run the cable and measure for hydraulic line for later.




Now we can start the tidy side of the job. She smiles not knowing what sanding lies ahead

looks very good Alby.

My only concern are the lower mountings. It seems to be a bit under engineered. If the tab breaks, Nic will go left and you right  .
May I suggest an easy reinforcement?
If you weld a thick piece of flat bar on the front of the square tub, you will double the thickness of the tab.
With a thicker tab, you could weld a second one on the motorcycle frame and sandwich the sidecar mounting (like the top mountings). If one tab breaks, you'll still have the second one as a security.
Here is the idea:





Now, will you wait to have the sidecar repainted before attaching it on your bike for a quick spin?

Cheers,

CF

Bert..Constructive advise is always welcome in the shed..even listened too. I will have a look at it.. Thanks.

I am using ALL my left over will power not!! to take it for a test run....  We will finish the frame work and paint it before we even  think of fitting it to the actual tug.

just visited alby today

looks like some great progress

the tabs on the bottom sidecar frames look really strong ...thanks to some suggestions


don't know if the two part frame is  standard on anything ....but looks the goods for strength and versatility in design



 






good to see some amazing work ...nearing completion ...

lets hope it comes together before the 23 of November for the "Guyra ride "  eh ?

As Charlie said..Been Busy here in TheHesMadLabs lately.   Thanks to some USEFUL sugesttions from Crazy i have made a small mod to the pivot point as Charlie mentioned. If 10mm of plate fails..well..its going to be good story!!!!

You can always tell Charlie has been around..his feet show up everywhere!!!

Here is the rail that attaches the sidecar to the subframe two lower points.

Dont you just love it when all the holes line up first go!!  No icon for self back pat!!

The first sanding done to gel coat. I looked like one big Blue Smurf!!

Primer and filler coat on and the guide coat..now for some more sanding!!!yay @#$%^

Top Coat is on and now for Compounding...More bloody hard work....

So we have gone from this.,

To this...

To this..Jet Black Gloss and trying to decide on what trim to break it up a bit.

Lights are wired in and need to fit the carpet and clean the upholstery up.  More to come.

Great job Alby!

Paint it the same colour as the bike?
Paint it white?
Chrome that wheel?
Discrete BMW roundels?
Stick family figures?

I've got more...

The stick family figures would all have to have helmets on, wouldn't be right to have em without any helmets

I recon something special will adorn all that blackness ...

great job alby ....yet again !

Great job Alby. The lower pivot point look stronger. 
When will we be able too see something like this?

This was taken yesterday when riding in the Musquoidoboit valley in Nova Scotia.
Leaves are turning yellow/red, the air become cooler and the good riding season will soon ends.
Yours will start .
I am thinking about snow tires on the rig.....

Not too long now Bert and We will video post as well.  Today I got the park brake lever mounted and working. I have a trailing arm from a mini with drum brake and sunraysa mag 13 inch.
There is also room to fit a brake line tied into back brake of bike.

oh?!!  great work alby

Great work Alby....where are you going to put the bull bar?

ainsjac wrote:Great work Alby....where are you going to put the bull bar?

No Need.. I will just tell Nicole someone lost her page in her book and they are in front of us and hand her a baseball bat!!

Looking awesome there Alby, welding skills are progressing nicely. Now just learn to weld alloy and you can have a job with me.
Sorry I haven't been able to get up your way and give you a hand with the welding, If I could just get away from work for 5 mins it would be great.
Looks like you are getting close now.

It is finally on the bike.  After a huge push over the last few days I am now ready to to start adjusting this and that for tracking.  Going to let it sit a couple of days so i dont mess things up.

woohoooo ....onya alby !

good to see it sitting on the bike mate ,,

Albyalbatross1 wrote:It is finally on the bike.  After a huge push over the last few days I am now ready to to start adjusting this and that for tracking.  Going to let it sit a couple of days so i dont mess things up.

I don't see the red ties anymore  


Looks good Alby.

CF

Looking good Alby!

Alby, what have you got set up to adjust your tow-in?
Schoorn.

Saxon7 wrote:Alby, what have you got set up to adjust your tow-in?
Schoorn.

Gee you sure ask some funny questions.  A piece of red string, thats why its called using a string line to do the alignment.

Seanii I spent a lot of time thinking about this. I built about an inch toe in after a lot of thought. it seems to have worked well. I wS real careful to keep bike and car wheel vertcal during set up. used a square against the tyre on cement slab. I can also tighten front and rear tie rods for a whisker more.

Who cares about the tow or the pinch...  
Here is the easy solution. Nic will like it. It will saves on tires too.

I think Nic might have something to say about that Bert.......She doesnt say a lot but when she SAYS something to me...I LISTEN!!

I have been following Keith and Tau on face book and they have set up a new web page HERE He is now making and selling adventure style sidecar.  

Waiting on new progressive fork springs and some outdoor carpet.

Might have to have another look at one of those GS thingies...

Rick wrote : Some constructive advice I would have bent the RHS and not cut and weld. Now I hear them saying how do you bend that stuff, well its quite easy I will explain on the weekend Alby.


Rick as this will be my next project I would be interested in finding out how to bend 25x25x3 instead of cut and weld
if it can be explained in a post

Mike

Mike PM me your email address I have lots of drawings I can send.