I will look that possibility too, thanks.

Meanwhile no warm winter here anymore. About little less than 2 weeks it has been -15 to -22 celcius in here. I don't like - and my wallet likes even less..

Tenox wrote:Sorry about the pics not working anymore. My homepage provider ended its service. Still trying to find new way to put pics online. Maybe dropbox.

You can use the servimg.com forum's account ,or you can open your personal one (www.servimg.com).
see this post for explanations.

CF

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wso2wf0jajx9dju/Us9IpM3PD1

Please tell me if this works. So far I just placed all my K100 photos to this location. If it works I will do multiple folders for different pics.

It Works.  

Thanks! 

I'll do the sorting as soon as I have the time for it.

About 1500km already with K on this season. Throttle cable still sticks sometimes and forks leak oil. I just stopped caring and concentrated on driving.   

Well I am looking for another bike also this year (like last, when I had that 650cc Africa Twin), but for some reason (this is odd sickness it seems) I always end up looking for a new(er) K100 or for the most K1100.   

So if my plans go as planned I will be getting another K to my garage at may or june. I have narrowed down my candidates as:
1.) K100RS 16V
2.) K1100RS
3.) K1100LT
4.) K100LT 8V/16V
5.) K100RS 8V

So far I have driven this spring following bikes:
* Kawasaki GTR1000 (1988)
- It was not all bad, but windshield was not good for my height and I like K100 better.
* Suzuki Intruder C1500T (2013)
- This was just for fun at a local dealer - would not buy.
* Yamaha XVZ 1300 Royal Star Venture (2000)
- This is out of my budget without a loan, but wanted to check it. Bike itself was quite OK, but this individual had poor handling at low speeds (went like a snake) and something not right with the engine so no thanks.
* BMW R 1100S (2000)
- This had Remus exhaust and Rapid Bike commander unit. Still I did not like the engine that much. I once had R1200S and it was much nicer. Otherhand this one had good setup for trips (bags, heated grips etc.) and it was in nice condition and relatively cheap, so I'm still thinking.
* Moto-Guzzi Quota 1100 (1999)
- Rare piece of equipment, but again windshield was not good for me and overall this just did not really interest me.
* BMW K 1100LT (1992)
- This one was also in good condition etc. when looked and even when driving until.. Clutch was almost gone. With 5th gear bike did not accelerate but revs got high and it did smell bad too at that point. Too bad, otherwise I might have considered this.

I have been counting bikes I have ever ridden. That LT was number 77. I have owned 14 different bikes, but now it seems that I'm stuck with K and they tend to multiply...  

Current K would go to garage and I would do some paintings and modifications - and change tyres to mudtyres - something like this: https://www.conti-online.com/www/linkableblob/motorcycle_de_en/6870986/data/tkc80_uv-data.jpg

Tenox wrote:. . . I have been counting bikes I have ever ridden. That LT was number 77. I have owned 14 different bikes, but now it seems that I'm stuck with K and they tend to multiply...  

I stopped counting when I ran out of fingers and toes. Funny thing is . . when I got my first K, in 2012, after much browsing around the shops, everything else looks ugly, slow, a helluva waste of money, or simply does not compare in terms of attributes both mechanically, handling, and reliability etc.

I first rode one back in 2004. It was then I decided that if I ever got another bike . . ( come along 2012! . . and I did!) it would be a K. I am so glad I did.

Mine cost the princely sum of $2500. When the big end died (due to incompetent mechanics . . NOT mine) it was only $2000 for another whole bike to replace the block with. Thats 4.5g's. Cant even get a new 650 for that and why would I bother with anything else anyway

Stack up the stats and in no time at all you will see that well under 5 seconds from 0 - 100 and a top end of 215 isn't that shabby by comparison. And the performance is AMPLE in todays traffic and policing conditions. More than enough to get you in to a whole lot of trouble.

These K's are wonderful and I cannot sing their praises high enough

My 2 cents says you are making the right decision.

To me the K's are timeless in both functionality, good looks and performance and set the benchmark for longevity and reliability. Affordable options are fast running out, unless you want to be a hardley lookalike or a ducati riding position

I think you have to ride one to truly appreciate what they are and also that UNTIL you have taken one on a good journey you don,t have a real definition of what QUALITY motorcycling is all about

Ya can lead a horse to water but ya can't make it drink

Good on ya man. I hope you find a real nice one

Thanks Be made for that nice post.

Next week after nightshifts I probably go and testdrive this: 
http://www.nettimoto.com/bmw/k/1653817

It is relatively expensive but I wonder if it correlates to its condition. And I think I could get it little less than what is asked for. Airflow, Hagon, Power Commander, bags etc.

Others that I have been thinking:
http://www.nettimoto.com/bmw/k/1678424 Cheaper than that above and 1100cc.
http://www.nettimoto.com/bmw/k/1543752 Original enough to get to museum register at 2015 ( = cheap insurances etc.)
http://www.nettimoto.com/bmw/rs/1646195 Cheap and has engine rebuild done, but looks a bit beaten-up.
http://www.nettimoto.com/bmw/k/1659828 Cheapest running and taxed K100 at market at this time.

Get the K1100RS   

if I had my time again I would have got a 16 valve , not an 8 valve, just for that little extra bit of grunt, and , yeah, an 1100cc not a 1000

Or should I go for Pan European 1100 model?  

Tenox wrote:Or should I go for Pan European 1100 model?  

Honda ? .. . .

Be made wrote:

Tenox wrote:Or should I go for Pan European 1100 model?  

Honda ? .. . .

No, to much Vodka..........

Inge K. wrote:

Be made wrote:

Tenox wrote:Or should I go for Pan European 1100 model?  

Honda ? .. . .

No, to much Vodka..........Saki

  Sometimes I just cant help myself

Honda yes Vodka no. I'm more beer and whisky type of a person.  

Screw the honda dude.  . . Honda Honda heap of tin dig a hole and chuck it in . . . lol . . . all jokes aside.  . . . they aint bad bikes but ya just cant go past a K (IMHO)

We will see...

Oh and K1200RS round 1997 - 2000 are one possibility too.

Tenox wrote:We will see...

Oh and K1200RS round 1997 - 2000 are one possibility too.

Heh . .  have fun. I love window shopping :-)

I assume if you get a non beema we wont see you on here anymore then ?

that would be a real shame

Be made wrote:

Heh . .  have fun. I love window shopping :-)

I assume if you get a non beema we wont see you on here anymore then ?

that would be a real shame

You assume wrong since I will still have my modified K100 and I'm sure it will cause me some trouble I have to wine here about.  

Tomorrow I will check out one 16v K100RS (1991) with low seat (Japan model). I think low seat is not good for me, but if the bike is OK otherwise it would be a possibility. It is not for sale in any media, but I have this "will buy" add and he contacted me on that. It is in same city I live in so that is a good thing.

Are those Japan models somehow restricted? Like not going faster than 180km/h? Or is that just for the newer vehicles?

And one more question. If I buy that K100 I may need a new seat. Are seats same on RS/RT/LT models on K100 and are they same on 8v / 16v etc.

In Australia we get a lot of the bikes from Japan and there is no restriction on them except for a red light that comes on if you exceed 80kph and that is easily fixed with a pair of wire snips.  They are often well maintained and low miles or have been left in a corner of the shed for 10 years and it shows.

Thanks for the info Rick.

This one has a history of some sort ambassador or something use - and for it's age a low mileage. It has been repainted says the owner and it lacks those little sidepanels because of the low seat, but I think it also lacks the tankcover since owner said he has done some own panels to prevent battery showing. Also he had some problem with driveshaft or end gear and he replaced it with a sparepart from used vehicle but he also haves one new shaft (and/or) rear which would be part of the deal.

Japan K100 seen and testdrive done. And it was like coming home..   

Paint was not that good, but otherwise bike looked like it could really be only 65 000km driven. It was in very good condition with new Metzeler tyres and even switches etc. looked almost like new. Low seat was OK (although I have not tested normal RS seat so I don't know if it would be better) and tankcovers were on. It had very good service history from current owner.

Bike handled exceptionally - not at all like a brick - might been because of the tyres. Brakes, clutch everything just fine. Good set of equipment 3 bags (2 original and 1 Kappa large bag) spoiler (not installed or painted) under engine, some spare parts (shaft, oil filters etc. 2 keys for everything) etc. etc.

I really really liked this one. Only problem was brakefluid leak from somewhere near main frontbrake cylinder. Owner thought that it was only due winter storage, but I'm not that confident about that.. He also said he would change o-rings / seals if necessery. What do you think - is there a real problem with seals or something or what?

Price is in normal range (here) with all parts and equipment 3000 euros. Bike is K100RS 4v 1991.

I think I will get this one if the brake problem is solved... It felt mine from the first km. I will get the bike for longer testdrive next week if weather is ok.

If possible, bag a test ride on the K1100RS as well for comparison.

Mike

I drove K1100LT and it was not nearly as good as this K100RS. I think at this age bikes are individuals and a good individual may be hard to find on 20+ years old machines. But if I can I will drive K1100RS too.

Tenox wrote:What do you think - is there a real problem with seals or something or what?

No problem getting any parts for k's. yet. They are all available either oem or aftermarket aside from the radiator screens :_)

If it smalls good eat it. Go with your instincts.

So if I buy this one I probably need this: http://www.beemerboneyard.com/32722332037.html ??? Less than 50$ in US. 

Quess what it costs here. ~80 euros...   

That is roughly 110$ so I could get 2 if I lived in the States. Makes me wonder will they deliver to Finland..

One thing that has made me think Honda is this parts thing. We have local small Honda service here in the city I live in (Pori). Nearest BMW service is I think in Tampere, which is about 120km to east. I could get service and parts to Honda from local dealer (I know that service is in reasonable prices, don't know about parts), but to BMW I have to order everything online and if I order from my current suplier "Mototrip" everything seems to be very expensive.  :|

Tenox wrote: but to BMW I have to order everything online and if I order from my current suplier "Mototrip" everything seems to be very expensive.  :|

For my 2 cents worth here goes . .  I am not the most experienced or knowledgeable man in the world but:

What I find these days (I had several boxers from 89 - 95 . . and now K series) is that, yes, the parts are expensive but they LAST.

AND there are very few needed.

Engine longevity is renowned for the K's (300,000 ks before needing any serious attention is the legendary reports) .

Ive got to say, in all the k's I have done, on all the bikes I have owned, over the last 35 years of motorcycling (I am 50 now and owned and ridden for 25 of the last 35 years), and owning everything from suzukis, kawasakis, yamahas, hondas, and beemas of all the brands Beema has come out on top, for reliability from point A to point B journeys, to parts replacement

Aside from that the sheer handling attributes and practicality of use makes beema the best choice for me. Take for instance the handle which assist main stand operation, the sight glass on the radiator coolant bottle and the sight glass for the engine oil. Simple little design factors which make owning and operating a beema so east. Like the 4 nuts you loosen to take off the rear wheel, after dropping the rear of the back guard

Sheer simplicity and practical operation and performance is what keeps me on a BM

Once a K is sorted I cant see there being a lot of gen parts needed unless you are planning on doing like, 100000ks a year or something stupid like that. Oils, tyres, bulbs and batteries are all common enough aftermarket

I just went and had a look around Motobins site and I can buy OEM pistons and rings with pin and clips as a set for 150 Pounds that is for a 1977 R80 which is 37 years old.
I have a 35 year old Kawasaki Z1300 that I bought new in 1979 and 20 years ago I was finding it very difficult to get parts at any price and I stopped using it 11 years ago because I couldn't get even the most basic engine parts like pistons and rings, oversize or standard.
We can easily buy new switch blocks for our Ks for around 100pounds. A friend of mine from the Kawasaki forum I frequent just found after looking for 6 years, an NOS right switch block for $850 and reckoned he was really lucky to get it and happy to pay that price.
These are 2 reasons I ride an older BMW because at least I can still get parts when I need them.
One other reason is that if I bought a new K1300GT which is as close to a K1100LT as I can get I would be paying $600 each month in repayments and have another $500 in depreciation and my K1100 is just as good for what I want and need, I own it and it will never be worth less than it is now and that is a hell of a lot of touring I can do each month.

My father said to me once that if its got tits or wheels it will give you trouble and cost you a fortune.

Well I have had some bad luck with my K100 what comes to reliability. I have driven with it about 8000km. Previous owner redid whole engine, but did do one mistake while doing it. So what I have to do in just that 8000km?

- Normal oil service (engine, transmission and, endgear)
- Seals and O-rings for transmission, main seal*
- New clutch plate (oil resistant)**
- Rear brakelight switch ***
- Rear brake cylinder (used)
- Fuel hoses etc.
- Fuel filter and rubber for fuel pump and other stuff inside the tank
- Front wheel bearings & forkseals and installation & new oil done by local professional ****


* Actually 3 main seals since the install is not that simple. First one went in too deep and it took about 2-3 weeks to get one seal, so I bought 2 more.. One is still uninstalled.

** Old one might still have worked, but since the size of work to change it I decided to get new one. Did not buy those bolts that should be renewed in clutch since I did not know that when doing the service. Hope that those old ones will last..

*** Which went broken before 0km driven... did not get new or refund since I had to modify wirings - and no that is not the reason it died. Switch itself was bad.

**** And this did not fix leaking.. So I would have to buy new slidepipes (propably not the right english name) if I would wan't non leaking front. That is 400e / piece if available. I think I just add oil..

So what I have had with in these 8000km.
- Oil leak from engine to clutch
- Oil leak from transmission to clutch
- Oil leak from transmission to clutchlever - on exhaust, front of rear wheel
- Death of rearbrake and it's lightswitch
- Fuel pump got loose inside the tank
- Front forks leak oil
- Bad front wheel bearings
- Throttle cable stucks *****

***** And to solve this I have to take whole bike to pieces next winter, since the design of the wire near engine is so poor.    (Seems to be redesigned on 16 valve models, which is nice)

What have all this cost so far. 825,70 euros.

And after all that wining, one must remember that I do like the bike so much, that I'm planning to buy another one too.     

If my plans go well, I will be testdriving one K100RS and K1100RS next tuesday. We shall see.

Mate, when you have had a bike go bad, as yours seems to be it is hard to see how people are saying they are good bikes.

I bought my original bike in 1996. 40,000km
I rode it for 30,000km and am now ashamed to say I did almost no servicing on it.

It then sat unused and un started for 10 years.
Pulled a lot apart. Replaced fewer parts than I should have. Fired it up and rode 30km on a test ride. Next day was a test ride on a freeway at 110kph for 100km, each way, with a bit of touring in between then 1500km in 3 days and the only drama was an air leak due to my own stupidity while fiddling with it.

I hope if you again chose the K path you get a bike that, while in need of general service parts, it will not give you the grief that your bike has.
If you are lucky enough to get a bike that 'just goes and goes and goes' you will appreciate how sturdy they can be.
For your sanity and enjoyment of riding I hope one of the Ks you are looking at gives you the opportunity to enjoy these bikes as the vast majority of us are.
Resiliant, reliable and rideable.

Barman, my bourbon is empty.

rosskko

So it seems that I get to drive all day at tuesday with - I hope - three different K bike. My own to transit to possible new one. I guess I get something like 300-500km to it.   

And these two I will check out.

http://www.nettimoto.com/bmw/k/1653817
and
http://www.nettimoto.com/bmw/k/1678424

So I might see also if there is significant difference between these models.

And don't get me wrong. I do like K bikes a lot. They seem to be at this point very good deal. Low prices and very nice bike. I really do hope that I get a good one. 

That red 1100 has been serviced very thoroully just. All liquids and filters changed, all brake discs changed, new hoses and rubberstuff, lots of checking etc. etc. And previous owner seems to have taken good care of the bike before too. It has K75 bars and lowered saddle.. First one may be good, second bad to me.

Tenox wrote: . . . .  First one may be good, second bad to me.

if me I'd would grab the first one. 16v, very quick RS, White, nice low k's. Looks straight as and has not been played with. even still has the underbelly pan guard on it. awesome example

Buy it, replace all the fluids and filters, brake pads, service the drive splines, maybe replace the rear crank seal (check the clutch and bell housing for signs of oil. After that you'd prossibly never do much to it again except routine maintainence

Oh . . I forgot to add you might like to do the timing chain guides. Mine were pretty fackered @ 110000ks

By my comment on good and bad I meant the changes made to that K1100.

And what comes to the new K.. I am looking for a serviced one. I will not buy one, that needs immediate service. If possible I will never ever change that goddam main seal on K bike again.

Both of those bikes should be serviced and well maintained. So tomorrow I will see.

Tenox wrote:Both of those bikes should be serviced and well maintained. So tomorrow I will see.

dude . . . do NOT trust whatever any previous or current owners say about their bikes. Speaking from experience I can tell you that most people will say ( DO!) almost ANYTHING if it means making some cash

One example I have is an 06 car I purchased, believing it was one owner and fully serviced, it even had the service history from a dealer with it. what did I find . . .  the servicer ( DEALER) had just been ticking the boxes. The Radiator had RUSTY WATER, the engine oil was the viscosity of black water *( and I mean BLACK WATER) and the brake fluid was blak as well. This was only @ 130,000 ks

I repeat: Do NOT trust whatever anyoner has said. If you want trouble free running do a FULL service yourself, on the above mentioned items or pay a bike shop to do it for you, that is probably the only way to minimize any future mechanical problems aside from getting a brand new machine of some description

dam shame they dont still make NEW k100's. I'd buy one in a heart beat

If I had the time (or money) to do a full service in midseason, I would not be buying a new K100. Instead I would rip current bike apart or something. It would take me about 1-2 months to do a full service including all bore greasing and main seal replacements etc. etc. Parts only would take about a 2-3 weeks to come and I'm a professional. 

Professional nurse that is, which does not really make me decent mechanic...   

And there is only so little time to spend on bike in my current situation. Working fulltime (3 shifts) and trying to keep the relationship to my wife in OK condition and we do have a 4 years old son too.   

I appreciate what you are trying to tell me, but at this point I just have to trust the previous owner or.. Maybe I just should give up and take a small loan from my bank and get this one:

http://www.nettimoto.com/bmw/r/1637253

Get the Red K1100 to me it just says YES.  Not the R1200 no no not an R series.

RicK G wrote:Get the Red K1100 to me it just says YES.  Not the R1200 no no not an R series.

Im with you on this. DEF NOT an R

I had R1200S before this K100 and it was a lovely bike. Had to change to cheaper then.

Unfortunately my plans have changed according tomorrow because of the weather forecasted to the area those bikes are in. I will see some bikes in different area.

Tenox wrote:I had R1200S before this K100 and it was a lovely bike. Had to change to cheaper then.

Ok . . I might be a bit bias these days . . having had 5 R series in the past, but . .  all pre the new models . . so . . the old airheads.

I guess If I had the chance now I WOULD get an R but it would have to be pre 80's. I'm just old fashioned about them. I have a soft spot for a 76 - 80 R100. Has to be a series 7 for me, and even then I would modify and customise the same as I have done with the current K, like I used to back in the 90's

Just a quick note: The RS I bought for spares is @ 48500ks

Rusting rear drive spline

I sincerely hope whatever you get you service it or pay to have that done for you

there are threads aplenty of failing drives on this forum, maintenence being KEY to reliability

Be made - you are strongly pointing me towards bikes with chains...      They seem to be easier to maintain than these K bikes.

Checked out 4 bikes and drove 2 today. Did not like any.

1.) K100RS 16v - did not start (lucky me!), very abused looks, leaking fork seals etc. etc.
2.) K100RS 8v - This one was in little bit better shape, but not good enough.
3.) K100RS 16v - Engine was nice, but the bike was a bit too worn looking and had fork seal leak too and I think front brake maincylinder leak beginning + tyres were at final stage.
4.) Honda ST1100 Pan European - Again worn and unattractive. Was weird to drive after K bikes. Very nervous and the airflow on helmet was bad.

That Japan import K100 seems to best so far. It has become for sale on open market.

http://www.nettimoto.com/bmw/k/1687559

I think I will ask if the current owner would do that main front brakecylinder rebuild before the deal and maybe just get this one since it felt so nice. And it does come with new cardan (and the one on bike is replaced after failure - so I think that its on good grease too still).

Tenox wrote:Be made - you are strongly pointing me towards bikes with chains...      They seem to be easier to maintain than these K bikes.

Oh NO . . . . don't let me do that!!!

Chains and sprockets @ 350$$ + !!! every 20 - 25000ks . .  no  . .  no  . . . no

stay with shafts . .  stay with shafts . .  simply maintain them . .  simply maintain the . . .  bike . . and  . . it  . . will  . .  reward  . .  you  . . . with . . , ,  reliability !!!

Chains are cheap to make and expensive to maintain. Even toilet manufacturers stopped using chains 40 years ago.
As Norman Hossack said "Chains belong on traction engines".

RicK G wrote:Chains are cheap to make and expensive to maintain. Even toilet manufacturers stopped using chains 40 years ago.
As Norman Hossack said "Chains belong on traction engines".

I agree totally. Used in prison, best kept there for eternity

That hit the spot!     

I don't really know anymore. People say that chains and sprockets last 30 000km, have to be tightened only about when replacing rear tyre, and they do have these automatic oil systems nowadays. Chains and sprockets are also getting cheaper and cheaper. So is there really a big difference?

Well I'm not giving up yet. I would really like to get that new bike before june so that I could put current K to rest before I have to change it's rear tyre (which I allready should have done..).

today's sealed O ring chains are amazing.
had one on my 07 bonnie black last yr that needed a slight adjustment after 3K miles.
the bikes i had in the 70's would need adjustment at 300 miles or sooner and the back wheel was always a mess.....

The old CB750 Hondas we used to put chain and tyre at 4-5000 Miles and chain, sprockets and tyre at 8-9000 miles.

RicK G wrote:The old CB750 Hondas we used to put chain and tyre at 4-5000 Miles and chain, sprockets and tyre at 8-9000 miles.

another ol timer.
i worked at a honda dealer when the 750 1st came out.
remember the problems with the original master link ?
they couldn't handle the power and would break, honda re designed the MC then eventualy eliminated it.
a few after market co's came up with a double row chain and sprocket combo.
might of even been a triple chain, that was a looong time ago.
had that set up on an early CB750F, it was bulky ,heavy and i think it took some HP to turn it....

Tenox wrote:That Japan import K100 seems to best so far. It has become for sale on open market.

http://www.nettimoto.com/bmw/k/1687559

Best of luck with your search for the right bike

Regards

Keith

It seems that I really need it. Luck I mean.