Ok great! (but I think the risk is slight to go ahead & use the oil you've just installed).

I've heard hundreds of horror stories over the years about seals leaking because of some change in fluid brands....never really found that it really occurred or it wasn't due to some other cause such as a defective seal?????

You'll be fine either way you choose to go.

Suggest you go inside, put your feet up in front of the telly, pop the top off a few of those wonderful giant cans of "Fosters", maybe get frisky with the old hen or whatever.....for a while......you've been at this too long and it's starting to show!
lol

Talking about getting hot, I'd prefer to get it running before changing oils

With a bit of luck, that will be next week-end ... wooohoo

...next oil change replace the site glass, its REAL easy.
On another note, I have never used google sooo much as when I read from this site. Words like Pom and spanner as well as many others require me to do a search to find out what the heck you guys on the other side are talking about. I sometimes giggle over the meanings.
Ok, back to K100 topics...

We pick up on a lot of the American terminology because of the TV shows that come from there but I see Americans looking totally bewildered as to what Aussies are talking about sometimes.

Makes me think of what Oscar Wilde once said about Us and Britain that they were Two great Nations seperated by a common language.

Hey where have all the smileys gone anyone else missing them?

The last of the major bits arrived. I got a new set of brushes into the starter, just in time by the looks, the positive was almost gone. Got the new shim under No 4 exhaust and it's in spec now. Installed a new tensioner and the plastic part of the bottom guide. I got a pair of 6mm x 100mm bolts and cut the heads off and screwed them into the holes with locating dowels to use as guides for the timing chain cover. But of course on the first go I forgot to feed the wire through at the bottom. 2nd go's the charm, straight on and the seal seated perfectly, time will tell if it's going to leak. Crank cover went on without issue, magic.

Unfortunately it appears I have cleaned off the alignment marks for the hall effects on the timing chain cover. I've seated the plate where the connecting cable wants it to be but I'm going to have to check the timing.

I can knock up an LED box easy enough and I believe the plug for the sensors is on top near the front control box. Is 6 degrees BTDC correct? I've left the cam cover off at this stage so I can see the valves/marks etc in there. I'm sure I have an ancient timing light around here someplace too. Will a timing light be better? The blue goop on the covers will need to go off before I can run it I guess.

Here's an out of focus pic of the old and new brushes.

The arrow points to the V shape and half moon, if they are aligned so the edges are even you will be within 2 deg of correct and good enough to run it for a test purpose.

Cheers Rick. I've got vague tinkling that I made the mark at the black arrow to line up with the casing at the red arrow cos I suspected I'd wash the marks off. Does that look possible?

I put the head cover on and have work tomorrow so the sealant will have over a day to go off.

If those marks were lined up it would be firing well after TDC something like 12 deg.
Where it is now would be about 1-2 advanced which is fairly good because you get good bottom end torque.
With static timing you can push it about 4 to 5 deg futher advanced than standard. The factory set it where it is so that it meets the polution requirements.

the way you have it right now looks good to me robin

OkyDoky, thanks guys. Ya know you take all these photos you'd think I'd snap one before I pulled it off .. what a dunce.

I got everything back on apart from the fairing. I notice the low fuel light comes on now but it's doing that weather the tank is plugged in or not. Should it light up when you turn on the ignition?

I'll get tomorrow's job out of the way lickety splick and get back too it. Very close now

There is nothing fancy about the low fuel light on an 86 as they have a float that turns on a switch when it gets to the 4 lt mark (4lts is the story and they are sticking to it but it does vary a lot) which switches the light through a delay circuit so it doesn't flicker. Check that the float is on the arm and is not full of fuel and sinking.

Rick,
It would seem that he eliminated the tank & float, switch assy as he says the light stays on with the light disconnected?
Would seem that he has the wiring between the tank & the speedo box shorted to ground or hooked up incorrectly?
Failing that, something wrong inside the ip cluster?

I found it, the gearbox and fuel plug/socket are exactly the same. I had them reversed. The fuel light now works as expected and it only works when the engine is running. I added some fuel and it went out. I had already tested the fuel float went the tank was on the bench with a view to fitting an cheap fuel gauge and I found the low fuel switch triggers at just under 4 liters.

However, that little socket mistake may have blown the gear change board, I've lost the neutral light and 1st reads 5th and neutral reads 4th and all others are blank. I know the switch on the gearbox works, I buzzed it out previously and the neutral light was working so I've probably damaged the circuit board. Bugger ....

Lots of broken instrument clusters out there that should be able to supply a good used board for you to install for quite reasonable. Hopefully your little LCD indicator is still ok because that is the part that often needs replacing for discoloration of segments that fail to stay silvered up. So the LCD may be the more difficult to obtain. Hope you can transfer yours to the new board. watch out the little rubber contacts tend to fall out & get lost when you lift it off the board.
I recently put a board in a "works perfect one" that I had purchased of a gent on the BMWMOA website only to find that the green light failed to operate.

I believe it may have been Charlie99 who helped me through it, not sure. he actually showed me which transistor on the board controls the green light, but in your case you may have a damaged diode or resistor. Handy guys can fix those boards, but the rest of us probably have to scrounge around the various friends & neighbors to find a used part.

I actually bought a couple of NOS fuel light control boards off ebay at one time. ....You might find a used tach assy that has the board in it also. Hopefully you're guessing correctly on this one.

I do have to go back & re-read your last post to see what you said the original problem was? you hooked a wire up wrong at the fuel tank or from the sender to the dash?.....I'll go read & see now.

Glad you fould the fuel light problem. Hopefully, your model has the 90 second delay feture built in so the light is more steady....again, I don't know much about those models that have a fancy "float".
Regards & congrats.....Ibj...

might not be too damaged robin

but the input to the gear change indicator does expect a ground going input .... not b+ on one leg

the chips on board are cheep and plentifull

but there maybe something else that has happened ... but I would guess the first chip will be the primary issue .
good luck

Your not going to believe this. I complained about a 2nd hand gear change LCD being sent without one of the rubber contacts. You guys showed me how to move them from the old LCD and in the meantime, the supplier dispatched a replacement LCD. That parcel just arrived and guess what was inside. Not just the LCD, the complete board.

Someones looking after me

SCORE!

I put in the board, same problem

I have a diagram of the 3 trigger wires and it appears the yellow/white is open circuit somewhere. The indicator shows 5th,4th,blank,blank,4th,5th. I'll buzz the switch out again tomorrow to see if it's broken in that direction. If it is I can just take the yellow/white to earth till I'm back in there. That way I'll get 1st,Neut,2nd,3rd working, 4th,5th will show Neut,1st.

On the plus side, I have a complete working gear change board

[text]

******|Yellow/  | Yellow/| Yellow/
******|   Blue   |  Black  |  White
 1st    |            |    X     |    X
------------------------------------
Neu    |     X     |    X     |    X
------------------------------------
2nd    |      X    |           |    X
----------------------------------
3rd    |            |           |    X
------------------------------------
4th    |     X     |    X     |
------------------------------------
5th    |            |    X     |
------------------------------------

[/text]

This doesn't really apply to you Robin but it made me think of this.
Everybody has their million to one chance come in at some time in their life but sometimes it's getting eaten by a shark not winning the lotto

Ha .. I get the analogy.

Remember that switch did fall apart and I just sealed it with blue silicon.
I got to go back to yellow cabs tomorrow so work gets in the way again

I should add that the new tensioner removed the chain noises when cold but now I can hear clunking noises from the output shaft area when cold at very low revs. When it's warm and/or the revs pick up, they go away but I'm sure this would be fixed by the shim adjustment bulletin ibjman sent me.

And one question. Turn the timing plate clockwise to advance it?

Clockwise is correct.

Cheers Rick, I'll get some blinkers ( indicators ) on it, ride it and start fiddling with the timing.

I checked the wiring and the yellow/white indeed appears broken between the plug and the gear selector switch. I got a single strand of wire from a multistrand cable and looped it inside the plug around the earth and the yellow/white posts, hey presto, 1st through 3rd now work fine and I have the Neutral light working again. 4th shows as Neutral also and 5th as 1st but that'll do in the short term.

I got the upper fairing and indicators back on and found I have no low beam, hi beam works ok so I probably want a new bulb. There was water inside the headlight at one stage  All other lights work fine.

I warmed it up, advanced the timing a little to get it running smoother and headed off to the servo for a tank of fuel. The bike rides a lot better now, it sits square over bumps, no twitching. Front end seems a little hard to me so I may go down in fork oil grades. Currently running 10 grade, might drop back to 7.5.

Got about 4Kms from home, almost at the servo, stopped at traffic lights and the bike stopped, just cut out and wouldn't start. Waited a minute or two and it fired again and I got to the servo, filled up and headed home. 200 meters from the servo it cut out again and would not start. I turned it off and had a smoke. It fired straight away and I'm off again. This time I turned it off at traffic lights as it was looking like a heat issue. Coming down the final street to my place it was cutting out then firing, cutting out then firing till I got home.

This morning I warmed it up to get it idling and hit the hall effects with a hair dryer. Within a couple of minutes it started spluttering and then stopped and wouldn't fire. I let it cool off and it started fine so hit it with the hair dryer again, same deal, stopped and won't start

It looks like the sensors didn't like me moving them and have decided to go on strike. I found a 2nd hand sensor set in the UK for 40 pound so I've ordered them plus an Xenon bulb and a few minor fittings I need.  Looks like another long wait till we are finally riding it

If you are electricaly inclined which I reckon you are then check these out http://www.bbautomacao.com/home_hall_effect_sensor_cyhme56.html

Are they a direct replacement Rick?  Good to know. These things are expensive. The Perth guy wants $600 !!!

Yep a bit of soldering and all done. If you buy 10 thet are real cheap.

at one time I heard that jaycar had suitable replacements robin .....its worth investigating

else try the online catalogue of rs parts

good luck !    and let us know how you go ...

(just thinking I should have a look there again myself )

charlie99 wrote:at one time I heard that jaycar had suitable replacements robin .....its worth investigating
(just thinking I should have a look there again myself )

I have a memory of those parts no longer being made. It was a few years ago they went out of stock.

I would not like to try what you're smoking, he he he

I have a long memory but a short ...

What was it again?

They're at Jaycar

blaKey wrote:They're at Jaycar

Excellent, Thanks.

I'll try and get one of the old ones out and slip down today to see if these fit.
What is that holding the old ones in? Some sort of rivet?

Erg, I got one of those nose/throat lurgies, I think the boy brought it home, so I haven't done much here

However, I did free up the wires to the sensors and one of the trigger wires has a cut in it.
I'm going to get some heat shrink and splice this back together before doing anything else.

Doesn't look like a very fresh cut. You're lucky it was running on 4 cyl at any time.

Patched it and it's seems fixed. The hairdryer doesn't appear to have any effect now.
It sizzled when I soldered it, old oil/grime burning off so your right, it's not new.

However, I left it idling and after 5 minutes, it cut out and won't start

flat battery ?

they wont charge til over 1500

No, I just wasn't hitting it with the hairdryer long enough. It's definitely in the hall effects.

I went to jaycar and got a pair for $40. I just broke the old ones off with a screwdriver. They are held on with some sort of blind rivet. I tried cutting off the sensor side that sticks up and drilling it out from there. That worked but made the existing hole bigger. See pic, it's obvious which one. I then tried a center punch on the rivet head and they just popped through.

I'll have to invent a mounting system for the jaycar ones but they seem to fit so far.

look like about 2.5mm holes in the sensor
but I bet the holes on the plate have worked out to 3 or so mm ..

I guess you could redrill the sensor brass support bushes very lightly to 3mm ?
good luck !

Yep the sensor holes are 2.5mm, the posts are 3.5mm and fit the plate exactly but stick through a bit. I have some 3mm screws/washers/nuts/locktite but my 3mm drill is missing. I'm tossing up on weather I should go get a new drill bit and drill the 2.5 hole to 3mm or wait till next week and visit small parts and bearings for an exact fit. They would even have 2.5mm locknuts ... hmmmmm.

get a 6 m drill and take the posts down level ....you should be able to find a suitable washer and spring washer to lock it up in position with 2.5mm screws ......and perhaps some Loctite ...or nail polish to stop the vibrations affecting it ?
looking good so far

I have some washers the right size to take up the extra length in the posts on the outside. The less time I spend on a drill the better off the sensors will be I think  That side is the outside so extra height there really isn't an issue. I'm not a fan of those pressed in bushes, they tend to come adrift unless you cover everything with a washer. Those washers I just mentioned would cover the bush and plastic on the inside and I guess that extra height shouldn't be a problem on the inside.

I think I'll just go get a 3mm bit and have a bash at it tomorrow

Best laid plans .... There is no room inside for any screw heads at all. I epoxied them to the plate and soldered them up and it's away. Just had it idling for 20minutes, long enough for the fan to switch in and out, so it's fixed. The $40 hall effect fix

Not too sure how long it will be before the heat breaks down the epoxy, but I do have a 2nd hand set coming in the mail, just in case

In retrospect, it would probably be best to tap a thread in the posts and screw them down from the front.

Counter sink the brass and use a 2mm counter sunk socket head with a nyloc nut on the other side.

Do you think the nylon in the lock nut will handle the heat?

I see aerotight, hi temp lock nuts but the smallest looks to be 2.5mm.
http://www.smallparts.com.au/store/partslist/nutsaerotight/nutsaerotight/all/1/

ERRK .. $6 each, forget that one

should have stuck to the 2.5mm screws from the front ?

3mm. There was enough meat to tap a 3mm thread before I drilled them. Too late now

Small parts have countersunk socket heads in stock so that's the way ahead for me now.
But it definitely works. It's back on the road

RobinW wrote:Do you think the nylon in the lock nut will handle the heat?

I see aerotight, hi temp lock nuts but the smallest looks to be 2.5mm.
http://www.smallparts.com.au/store/partslist/nutsaerotight/nutsaerotight/all/1/

ERRK .. $6 each, forget that one

I reckon it would but put some blue loctite on it to be sure

I got these tiny screws countersunk into the sensors. They looked up the operating range for 2mm nyloc nuts and they only go to 110C which seemed a bit low for this application, so I just got double nuts on them and used thread locker 609 which is good to 220C but takes 24 hours to cure. I'm way more confident now that these things won't come adrift in the middle of nowhere

A bag of center stand parts arrived today so it's not over yet. Back on the jack she goes .....
It was 50/50 auto transmission oil and acetone for a penetrator wasn't it?









The boy put me onto this place .. Reasonable Prices on a lot of stuff.
http://amawarehouse.com.au/

Managed to removed the jammed bolt in the stand with an easyout and a 200mm adjustable spanner.
There was a loud crack and I thought the easyout had snapped but twas the bolt finally giving in
It was really stuck in there but with new bushes and bolts installed all round, it's just like a bought one

I couldn't find any of those spring clips. I am sure I have at least one but it's hiding somewhere.

No worries Rick. I've got a free morning tomorrow and it looks like the rain has stopped, so I might take the bike for a run over to the bm shop and see if he's got one.