Post consolidation going on.

Hickup

Cheers, I'll leave the box alone. I do have a new breather hose coming. This one is also cracking. I think there's enough needing attention without looking for more bits to fix

Sorry guys!

Back on track?

Here's the state on the nation
No rides any time soon ....

See the sparkling swingarm in the backgroung

RicK G wrote:Its a 4T 320/28X. Don't buy from Pyramid parts on fleabay as they are junk. Don't ask.

Cheers Rick, you are a legend. I get bearings from simplybearings in the uk. You need dimensions but they have 28x52x16 bearings from KOYO, FAG and SKF. My swing arm bearings have been sent else it would be best to have added this as post aint cheap for individual small bits. I'll try local first.

I also found a welder. I'll let ya know how it goes.

How nice is that stand!

blaKey wrote:How nice is that stand!

I saw it at my local Repco for $149 and grabbed it.
Took 2 people to get it into the back of the Golf, it's heavy.
It needs a couple of bits of wood under the bike to balance it up.
I couldn't imagine doing this without it, I can still push it around.

My tappet pack arrived from the UK this morning, 12 new rubbers for the cover bolts, new gaskets, a pair of half moons and the shim tool. All the old rubber was hard, I had to cut the old bolt rubbers off, they where very hard and cracking, the head of the new ones look a little different but they'll be fine. Also my eBay micrometer was dropped off with that delivery. I'd already checked clearances and knew 3 where tight so after a bit of trial and error, got the shims out for a measure. I need to drop .05 from each one.

I drove down to southside suzuki and the shop told me they would have to order them in but the workshop might have some. At the workshop my old neighbor from 20 odd years ago is at the counter. He pulled a box full of shims from out back, he called them the dinosaur collection and gave me the three I needed. This is too easy I thought. When I got home, only one was 29mm, the other two where 29.5mm. Bugger it, put the good one in and ordered the other two from munich so I can button the lid sooner rather than later.

Yesterday I cleaned the top of the motor as the filter box was out. I almost had to shovel the crud out of there. I pulled the alternator for a look at the rubbers and they look new. I could see a little contact adhesive around one so they've been replaced. There was a lot of fresh/wet oil in this area. I pulled the starter and the o'ring on the front of it feels very hard and doesn't seem to be any bigger than it's groove. I cleaned the whole area and added a new o ring to the munich order.

Royal mail tracking for the swingarm bearings I ordered says they are in the country and AustPost has them. I got onto my mechanic and he has a hammer type race puller and will drop it in to me on his way home tonight.

Well my mechanic came and went. The tool he has is too big. He's taken the arm with him and says they will spot it to get it out. They put several weld spots around the race and it will drop out. Looks like another problem out of the way and again it's not what you know but who

I wasn't able to understand the description of the swingarm bearing removal problem? And I have very little experience with them but..........I just heated the aluminum swing arm all around the bearing with a propane torch and it expanded as expected.....the bearing just about fell out. After they cooled a bit, I removed the seal from one side of each, cleaned em out, repacked them with grease, reinstalled the seals, heated the arm a bit & dropped them back in.
Same procedure as used when removing front wheel bearings.
Must have been something different going on with your set. I would like to learn more.

I don't have a heat source other than a hair dryer Tony will get them out for me.

One is completely stuffed but I'm replacing both with normal bearings. 2 x SKF 30203J2 Metric Single Row Taper Roller Bearing 17x40x13.25mm Order Total: £24.45 delivered.

They should arrive by friday but the clutch pack won't be here till next week at least.

Found a 2nd hand gear change LCD tonight so that's in the mail as well.

If your after an external fuel/temp gauge, motorworks has a pair in used parts.

oh ? good price on the bearings ....hmm

ill look at another local supplier was quoted nearly 40 each near me

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.html

I'll let you know here if they fit

You might consider 1 of these:
http://www.righttoolusa.com/p/Bernzomatic-Ts7000-019070-Trigger-Start-Adjustable-High-Output-Cast-1104765.html?gclid=CMrL1sL9uLcCFWQ6QgodkTkABA
It's one of the handiest tools I have. Coupled with a can of MAPP gas, it REALY hauls the mail & never have to go looking for a striker to start it.

To be honest, I'd prefer a welder, it's way more useful. They had a cheapy at the local Bunnings (Hardware) for under $90 with a mask and hammer + $5 for some thin rods. Maybe after tax is done with.

The little stick welder is a very good choice. I'm not much good with one of those as I can't see well enough....lol.
I use the little torch for all kinds of stuff.....like fixing a leaky plumbing copper connection around the house, etc.
I had a little mig welder, but found it too light duty for many of my needs. I've never had a stick welder. I would like to have a 220 buzz box someday, but really don't have the work to justify one.
Post pictures of the arm work.
Regards, ibj....

I asked him to give me one of the races back in case I need it to drive in the new ones.

RobinW wrote:I don't have a heat source other than a hair dryer

Because the coefficient of expansion of ally is nearly twice that of steel, you don't need much heat for bearings to be released. Even a warm oven can be sufficient. And whilst you're in the kitchen, the dish washer is a great parts cleaner

When she was mopping up pots to go in the washer I suggested she might try that on the exhaust system. She reminded me it was bin night and don't push your luck

Another wet day in the Sunshine state but the bits from Munich arrived in an overnight bag today, pretty quick. I pulled the starter apart, cleaned out the gunk and put in the new o rings. It's going to need new brushes by the looks so that can go on the list for Ron (later on).

The last two valve shims went in but the exhaust is still very tight, I might go down another size next round. I got all the new rubbers on the cover and buttoned it up.

Now I've done that I'm thinking it might have been wise to at least inspect the chains. To get the front cover off, does the crank cover need to be removed as well? I see a radiator hose going into that one, do you lose the liquid if you remove that cover?

the.postman wrote: And whilst you're in the kitchen, the dish washer is a great parts cleaner

I forsee a death in the family ..........

yes Rossco is a very brave guy when the missus is out...

RobinW wrote:
Now I've done that I'm thinking it might have been wise to at least inspect the chains. To get the front cover off, does the crank cover need to be removed as well? I see a radiator hose going into that one, do you lose the liquid if you remove that cover?

The timing chain cover can be removed with the crank cover in place but it will be awkward replacing it because the crank cover gasket needs to be sealed with three-bond against the edge of the timing cover.

It may be an opportunity to replace the coolant and flush the rad.

To remove the timing chain cover you must disturb the Hall Effect Sensor. Rather than punching a mark to ensure correct realignment, I just use an indelible marker pen. Watch out for the retaining screw washers, they are shaped to fit.

When re-fitting the timing chain cover, use plenty of sealant. In my experience it's the most difficult of the metal-to-metal joints to seal properly and avoid leaks.

Thanks Mike I thought so. I might leave that for the next round I think, I have already flushed the radiator and have it all reasonably clean down there now. And yes, the chain cover appears to have been weeping up top for some time so someone has probably been in there already.

Also Mr Smith from KBikes is back and working. I got an LED set coming.

And my rear shocky is back from rebuild. He told me it has been done before.
$190 with new bushings to one end and a crap paint job.

It's all stop here until parts start to arrive. I've cleaned 27 years of crap off everything I can see and have been working on the exhaust. I initially thought the metal had changed colour to gold but after seeing what the.postman did to his I had another look. The Gold colour was years of road grime and oils cooked onto the metal. I didn't take a before shot but here's a bit under a bracket that I can't get at. It was like that down the whole length of the exhaust.




I tried a few things to get it off but wet sandpaper worked best. I use a little 400 around the seams, then moved to 600 and am currently on 1200 grade. If I can get some 2000 grade I might try that as well. Unpolished they have come like this.



Not sure what the wrinkles in the metal are all about but something has happened to them. A couple of the shield nut carriers have been rewelded and one is completely missing and the hole has been plugged up?

Brings back memories of the resurection of my K100 after the PO neglected it to within a gnats wisker of the wreckers yard.

I got hold of a few sheets of 2000 grade late this arvo. It looks to take all the scratches out from the lower grades and it's coming up nicely.

Just after dark I tried to polish a bit with my car polisher to see what it looked like. I've never used that polisher on a car or for any extended period really, I impulse bought it when I saw it on special for like $25. Tonight it started making banging noises and threw nuts and bolts out all over the garage. No more polisher for me

lol ..

the cloth buff wheel polishing kit from super cheap (sca plu 27931 ) with the 3 types of polish works pretty good robin ...

just use a decent drill huh ?

Yeah, the thing spun at bout 4.5K RPM which is ridiculously fast for a polisher.
No wonder it self destructed, one should keep the receipts for all this crap chinese crap you buy so you can get your money back when it self destructs

Swingarm bearings arrived today but my mechanic had not pulled the races so I got the arm back, bit the bullet and bought a blowtorch and got them out myself. No problem at all, poped right out when hot.

Now these new bearings will fit but are about 3mm shorter, they are 13.25mm tall instead of 17mm. I suppose I have to seat the bottom race, I can't just press it down the the right spot?

What do you suggest for a 3mm spacer and should it go under the bottom bearing race (40mm OD) or between the bearing and the pins (28mm OD). I'm guessing under the bottom race is best and I think there's a piece of 3mm alum sheet here somewhere to cut them from.

Make sure you are right on correct for the difference as the alignment of the drive shaft relies on that being correct, as well as the wheel alignment. Bad alignment = shagged spline

Yep, it looks like I want a steel 4mm spacer, 28mm OD 17mm ID and it goes between the bearing and the plug. The old dust seals should hold it in place. I'll see what I can find. It may be made out of unobtainium though. Cheers.

I'm quizzing a few mates to see if their lathes can cut 4mm off the end of the old roller centers. I have a feeling the metal will be too hard for them.

[edit]
I was right they all have these hobby lathes off ebay, only good for wood and alum. So I've ordered another long wait on visa from the bins.

I would think that you only need 1 spacer under the bearing on the right side bearing as that is the side with the fixed position spacer plug that is bolted in solid.
The left side pin is threaded, adjustable. It simply presses the swing arm against the right side pivot point. As long as the right side of the swing arm is positioned exactly as designed.......all the left one does is hold the arm firmly against the right side. To change the alignment of the swing arm it would all be determined by the depth of the right side bearing. It has to be absolutely correct as was the original, both against the pin on the outside and against the arm on the inside.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I think there would be enough length in the threaded pin to only use one spacer. It does need to go between the bearing and the pin though. The center of the BMW bearings roller part is 7mm tall so it sticks out a lot more than a normal bearing. This is where the top dust cap/grease seal goes, it's 3mm thick so it ends up flush with the edge of the swingarm and the head of the BMW roller sticks out a fly poop above that. The spacer replicates the weird height of the BM bearing.

I won't have to replace them again so I may as well get the real deal.

Here's a pic with the 30203 bearing on the left and a reconstructed BMW on the right and the dust cap.



This is the center roller part of the BM bearing. I was thinking you could cut a 3.75mm spacer off the left of it, it is the exact correct diameter But noone I know has a real lathe and a machine shop would charge too much.

I saw some red flags go up with the incorrect bearing shimmed idea. I do believe, however that the left side threaded bolt has lot's of available additional length to take up the needed space from a narrower bearing on that side, providing the right side one sits at the correct depth.
Maybe I can't quite visualize it correctly.....was just trying to save you making 2 if you could get away with just one

I ordered real ones, no point messing about at this stage of the game

I added pics to the previous post.

If they have the right tool tips they could cut a cone down but I doubt the home handy man lathe would have that.
I dont see any reason that you couldnt use mild steel for a spacer as the original rests up against Aluminium.
Dont make the spacer any bigger in diameter than the part of the original part that fits into the gearbox case as it would be difficult to fit a big diameter washer into the space when the swinging arm is in place.

Seeing it will be another 2 weeks for these bearings to show up I pulled all the covers off for a look at the rivets and cam chain. I could not get the radiator hose out through the crank cover. The end near the radiator has swollen up and won't fit through. I guess I'll need a new one before it bursts.

Rivets look ok to me but I see wear on the tensioner plunger and on this guide. And if that is supposed to be a rubber bushing on the bottom of this guide,mine has turned to concrete. No chain marks on the front cover at all. The top guide seems to be made of hard plastic and I can't tell if there are wear marks on it or not.

The timing cover gasket looks like it was repaired with contact adhesive and a similar glue type substance came out with some of the bolts. I'm wondering if they've been stripped and he's glued them in

I had a lot of trouble getting the wire for the oil pressure through a grommet on top of the bike and the cable covering snapped a couple of times trying to feed it down to clear the chain cover. All good in the end though, I think

I'm tossing up on weather to blow the budget and replace the chain gear now while it's all exposed ?

Here's the rivets, it all looks fine in there.




Here's some wear on the chain guide.




And she's looking less of a bike than ever.

At least my bike still is sitting on the centre stand.

Another 2 weeks at least before the wheels go back on this one

I ordered a new tensioner, the plastic bit off the bottom guide and a timing cover gasket from Munich. Should have them tomorrow maybe.

The rubber bush on the bottom guide looks ok when you stick a screw driver through the hole and wiggle it. I didn't order a front seal, this one looks in very good condition so I'll leave it in place. I think the guides and chain have been changed not too long ago. The other 2 guides are completely unmarked. It appears someone has done the chain and guides but ignored the tensioner.

Time to clean up the matting surfaces.

As long as the transmission is still off......you might elect to think very seriously about removing the lower crankcase 1/2 to get that intermediate shaft out. There is a service bulletin about how to correct the spring tension for the gear lash damper on the driven gear on the shaft.
I REALLY wish I had gone ahead on in there & done that upgrade when I had mine apart.
I would give your machine a 95% chance of needing it.
I don't remember all of your specifics.....but if you've ever started the bike in cold weather....you might have had concerns about knocking noises in the engine that could have sounded like timing chain difficulties and or Growling/rattling noises when de-accelerating especially when cold........both of which seem to get better once the engine starts to warm up.
As I said....by now you are probably plum tired of taking more & more stuff apart.......and more than that, unlikely to want to accept yet ANOTHER delay for more parts.
Every day when I start out, I find myself wishing I had fixed this when I had my bike apart.
Today after a year of working I finally have the bike in what seems like "right" condition with everything preforming well. The only 2 things that it still needs are the shaft gear update as I just spoke of and the new timing chains.
Think about this seriously, before you put it all back together.
Regards, ibj...

You are right ibj, I'm not pulling any more bits off
Plus I'd have to pull the frame and flip the motor.
It's currently got the bottom end balancing on a jack and has no wheels

But, do you have have a link to this fix, I don't see a hit in Google.


[edit]
I found it explained in this thread:
http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=38568
If it's still an issue next fluid change then maybe.
It's a lot of work to change a shim which may not be needed.

Also, munich don't stock tensioners, 3 week wait they said, bugger off and cancel it I said
Off to the bins again

I believe it's in the "downloads" section.....you'll need to get the password from CF if you are eligible. It's called
11 037 88 (2289) Revision Gear Lash Noise.
According to the instructions, It can be done with the engine right side up & in the frame.

RobinW wrote:Seeing it will be another 2 weeks for these bearings to show up I pulled all the covers off for a look at the rivets and cam chain. I could not get the radiator hose out through the crank cover. The end near the radiator has swollen up and won't fit through. I guess I'll need a new one before it bursts.

Robin, the hose isn't swollen, it's pre-shaped to be a larger diameter at the top. Vaseline is a good lube to pull the hose out of the sump cover, assuming it hasn't gone hard with age.
Paul.

I'll check it out ibj.

Cheers Paul, I sort of thought that when I went looking at the photos of it on moto-bins. I'll just leave it alone

ibj, I got that service notice. I would not be comfortable doing this unless the motor was flipped over and on a bench.
I don't have a bike lift here either as they would have in a BM workshop.

Besides, the bike is now brooding. She's taken to wearing a dress, pissing in buckets and hiding in corners

I think you would fit in well with the Aussie mob Robin.

hehehe, whada ya do Rick.
No deliveries today at all and it's a long week-end.
I was at least hoping for the steering bearing.

Get on the piss and smoke cigars instead

Well I don't smoke anymore but have been known to have the occasional glass of alcholic beverage. purely for the purpose of pain management of course.

Yaaahh, the clutch parts arrived as did the 2nd hand LCD for the instruments.

I got the old rear seal out and the new one in this arvo without issue. Work is going to get in the way tomorrow but when I do reassemble the clutch, I should only lightly grease the ring behind the spring plate and the 3 locating dowels, is that right? I have some OPTIMOL T WHITE PASTE for that.

No need to grease/oil the thrust washer or anything else in the clutch?