Already stripped the headlight, washed it, put in an LED strip and got it on the bike. I got the stuff from jaycar so I could do it now. They cut it off a roll for $2.95 per 50mm, so I got 150mm. I plugged the bulb hole with a grommet and tied a knot in the cable to stop it pulling on the strip. It works.

looks great

looks good ..

for those planning on doing a similar mod
just get a strip of aluminium about 10-12 mm wide
and long enough to go from each side of the that wriggly reflector strip mounting points ( 6 guage screws )

remove the reflector bit and fix the leds to the aluminium strip

drill the strip appropriately to fit up the mounts ( a little bit of flexing -bending is required but it is so easy ....
drill a small hole adjacent to the old pilot lamp hole on the under side and thread the cable through there ...

you will find that the 12mm wide strip will allow the cabling to enter into that area easily and semi hidden to the leds

just a suggestion

https://i.servimg.com/u/f70/16/13/61/46/2013-046.jpg

only problem is the head light seems dull in comparison... even with a 130/90

Klompy the grey brick wrote:only problem is the head light seems dull in comparison... even with a 130/90

Could just be the camera exposure, it was the middle of the day. That's the xeon bulb that arrived in the post yesterday and it's definitely better than the old one. Relays from china aren't here yet and I think they are still at least a couple of weeks away. It's just a quick fix so I can get all the fairing bits back on the bike for the weekend. I'd still like to change those spade terminals to a plug/socket arrangement and I see Jaycar has these pretty cheap.

RobinW wrote:

Klompy the grey brick wrote:only problem is the head light seems dull in comparison... even with a 130/90

Could just be the camera exposure, it was the middle of the day. That's the xeon bulb that arrived in the post yesterday and it's definitely better than the old one. Relays from china aren't here yet and I think they are still at least a couple of weeks away. It's just a quick fix so I can get all the fairing bits back on the bike for the weekend. I'd still like to change those spade terminals to a plug/socket arrangement and I see Jaycar has these pretty cheap.

I meant mine...the headlight is distinctly yellow whereas the LED is almost blue...as I can select parker only it seems a good option as its really visible in the day...DTR??...yep

Won't that be because of the white balance on the camera?

LED's do emit more blue that incandescent bulbs. I plug cameras into telescopes now and then. To flat field the images of space I take a pic of light from an LED light box. Here is how photoshop shows that flat field image. See the hystogram to the right, blue is a lot stronger. Also some cameras see blue/green stronger than red.





Still working on this but here is the latest image off the telescope.

http://www.photometrictesting.co.uk/Image/Colour%20Temperature%20Main.jpg

I have a HID kit in the cupboard do I fit that or is that just going to annoy the other road users as much as HID's annoy me.

Still working on this but here is the latest image off the telescope.

[/quote]



Feck Me what a picture!!!!!!!!!

You surely don't get pictures like that from a Brisbane backyard do you? With all the light around.

Yes. But it's not a normal snapshot type RGB image. It's a narrowband image. That's the light generated by Sulphur (S2), Hydrogen (Ha) and Oxygen (O3) gasses which are excited by particles from nearby stars and you map them to RGB. So Red/Green is not visible to the human eye and if you capture the Blue with no moon about it works best  I use a mono camera and put filters in front of it. Doing normal LRGB from here isn't easy

Its always interested me but I'm usually too busy playing with things that go Vroom Vroom Boom

It takes hours and hours over multiple nights to get an image and is about as exciting as watching paint dry to be honest. I normally get it running and then retreat inside. I got into it cos you can't see a thing through an eyepiece from here

Klompy the grey brick wrote:http://www.photometrictesting.co.uk/Image/Colour%20Temperature%20Main.jpg

I have a HID kit in the cupboard do I fit that or is that just going to annoy the other road users as much as HID's annoy me.

just shade the up lighting a bit john so at least it has a bit of a level line rather than swamping everything in sight ...up down left and right ... so that might mean shading the under side of the reflector ?

Holy crap! What a brilliant photo!

Well worth the time spent Robin. Amazing.

Cheers Guys.
Going a bit off topic, but I have a gallery on line if you want to see more.  
http://starshed.net/

On the other hand I got the fairing back on the RS, took a quick run this arvo and it ran like a top. Once it warmed up it felt like it wanted to go to Sydney

RS's love it in Sydney.....ran mine for the first time in weeks, with a fresh paint job oil change etc...life is good.

I hammered it over Mt Cotton and down to the Gold Coast today. No oil leaks from the engine at all and it did 310Kms before the fuel light came on. Still seems a bit rough coming off low revs but the vacuum gauges are coming this week, fingers crossed. Goes like the clappers over 4K rpm though

I still feel a light touch of fork oil on the forks. Not leaking, but I feel fork oil. The boys new F800R forks are dry as a bone. I guess the K is showing it's age.

I noticed the back end skips a bit at times and have found that tyre is dated 2009. Damn thing still had new tyre bristles on it when I bought it. Bugger ....

The Carbtune gauges arrived, yahhh.

I put in a T piece on TB 4 as shown, I guess you need to do this? I warmed it up a bit, connected the tubes and TB4 was very very low compared to the rest. This is the one that needed the exhaust shim dropped by .1mm. It was followed by TB1 with 2 and 3 being close to each other and the highest readings of them all. I screwed in the bypass screws and some where screwed out  by 5 full turns. I set them all to 1 full turn out, upped the idle screw to give me about 2500RPM and went to adjust the TB set screws.

It appears they all have blue locktite on them. As I loosened the lock nuts, the screws turned. I had to remove all 3 set screws to get the locktite off. It seems TB 3 is the master and the screws adjust the others to match it however there does appear to be some interaction between them.

I got all of them reading very close to each other at 2500RPM, dropped the idle screw back to idle and adjusted the bypass screws to even them up there. The fan started coming on so I'm letting it cool down before having another look at it but as it is, it seems a lot smoother and revs better from idle.

I found a tiny open ended spanner that fit the lock nuts so screwed them down, trying not to alter the adjustments I'd made and put a dab of fingernail polish across the nut and thread to try and hold it there. I'm not sure if fingernail polish melts but time will tell.

I took it for a run to the motor store to pick up some injector cleaner and all the burbling and hesitation I was getting applying power from idle is gone. Power delivery seems smooth across the entire rev range now. I'm hoping to do a run to the Sunshine coast on the week-end so we shall see if fuel economy has changed as well.

Looking good





This one is with the bike at a fast idle, about 1200RPM.
A bit hard to see in the pic but they are all very close.

hope it works out robin

we usually try and steer clear of adjusting the inline adjusters ...they are usually set on a flow bench and very hard for the amateur without all the right tools to adjust correctly .
the symptoms you are trying to adjust out sound remarkably like a leaking rubbers on the tb to head side

we have seen similar values repaired by just resealing the rubber to head with some sealant ,,,done correctly it means pulling the whole lot off cleaning up the surrounding area first ....etc ...

good luck mate

have a great ride

I did spend a fair bit of time looking for air leaks before these gauges arrived and couldn't find any. I even used almost half a can of start ya bastard and soaked everything with a zero result. All the rubber around the TB's look to have been replaced already, even those clamps look to have been re squeezed/clamped. I'll leave it be at this stage and see how it goes.

It's sure running a lot better now, even all the knocking noises I was getting when starting from cold have gone away

I wanted to thank you all for the help and advise you gave me during this resurrection. I've clocked up around a thousand Kms over the last couple of weeks and the bike is thundering along nicely. I can't find anything else to fix, everything just works, it's running like a bought one.
 


I'm hoping you'll understand we all want new challenges and to that end I'm lining up an '94 R1100RS, which is in pretty poor shape, as the next project bike. It looks like it's been in a shed for 3 years. I'm just a sucker for a bargain 

Got some Photo's between rain showers today       

nice ....looks the goods as well robin ...
cheers mate !

Very nice indeed. I like it, a lot.  

I've never really noticed before now, how the chrome heat shield helps make the silencer less "obvious".

true indeed mike ....I recon about 4 inches off the end would put it back to "nice"

Jeez Robin, that's 10 out of 10!

Want a new challenge? I'll bring mine over!

Very well done.

blaKey wrote:Jeez Robin, that's 10 out of 10!

Want a new challenge? I'll bring mine over!

Very well done.

  

Too late mate, I have secured that Boxer at the price I wanted to pay. 
I'm picking it up tomorrow night then the NSW plates come off.
This photo hides all the faults quite nicely  

By the look of that photo, you'll be done in a couple of weekends!

Yeah they can be good with a camera when they wanna be.

So much oil is leaking from the right pot it smokes like it's on fire and talk about backfiring, it's a Kboom Bike not a KBike

I won't get into the paint or the 5 year old tyres, again

There won't be any 50c pieces in the forks though, it's a front and rear mono shock.

But the motor's strong, loads of torque, I think my arms are 2 inches longer from hanging on

I have a mate who has a R1200RT and the extra grunt it has comming out of corners is amazing. If we both come out of a slow corner in 2nd he just eats the K1100 for the first 30meters or so then I am all over him but they sure have got some extra torque down low.

Good to see ya back on board Rick. Hope it heals soon.

I got the boxer home tonight with a loud bang and a huge cloud of smoke. I stopped at the first servo from his place and pumped the tyres. There was 10 psi in the back, 15 in the front and he had been riding it. Maybe he's got a death wish. It drove more or less ok after that. Turning the throttle at home, engine off, I can hear the left TB opening a long time before the right one moves and the oil looks to be over full which is probably why my right boot was covered in the stuff. Looks like I might just get away with a clean and a service to get it going but it'll need new paint, it's pretty rank. Fairing is plastic not fibreglass and I think the tank is plastic as well.

It is truely amazing what owners do to their machines while trying to do a service. I used to see it quite often when I worked for honda Australia.
They would come in like you describe the R is and swear blind that they havent touched anything and it costs them heaps to get it fixed because often the bad work needs to be rectified before the right things can be done.
I remember watching a guy tune a 650cc twin yamaha and it eventually stopped running alltogether and was put on a trailer to get it home. He apparently took it to a mechanic because 2-3 days later it was running as good as they ever did with some highly unlikely story as to what the "problem" was.

I know one person who has sold quite a few bikes because they fell apart due to his tender mercies.  Mind the buyers got a good bike that needed a small amount of work to get it back to that state.

RobinW wrote:Turning the throttle at home, engine off, I can hear the left TB opening a long time before the right one moves and the oil looks to be over full which is probably why my right boot was covered in the stuff. Looks like I might just get away with a clean and a service to get it going but it'll need new paint, it's pretty rank. Fairing is plastic not fibreglass and I think the tank is plastic as well.

 Robin,

The tank is plastic, under the painted cover. Be wary when undoing the screws that hold the centre tank cover panel in place, if the clip under the screw is solid it can break off the retaining tab.

TB balance on these is pretty simple but if the cables need replacing (which they often do) getting at the splitter under the battery tray is a bit of a pain. 



The main cable has been modified too. If it hasn't been done already, any new cable won't fit without the modified bit at the throttle.

The R-RS is much under-rated, actually it's probably the best of the R11XX models.

Cheers Mike. I haven't removed the tank yet, just pulled it back to see the plate then replaced it. The plate tells me it's an early 93 model, hence the fixed bars/windscreen and one piece seat. I read there are 2 types of throttle cables, but I haven't got that far yet. Just pulled some fairing bits and the tail to get at it and washed the oil off. I thought I'd measure how much oil is in it to see if it's over full before going any further. If not overfull, I'll put the oil back in, get out the talc powder and try to see where it's coming from. It was looking like the base of the head, but maybe not. No gaskets in there, just goo I think. But it's a lot cleaner than the KBike was, maybe a few more rusty bolts though. 

And yes, velcro was holding the left lower fairing to the tank  




And the local Auto shop can mix BMW paint colours and have the correct colours for the primer as well. 
I'm thinking all boxers should be black.  Code 475 : BMW Black Sapphire Metallic.  That's an M6 colour.

[edit]
The oil was overfull. I pulled the sump plug and about a litre came out before the level passed through the sight glass. I'm hoping that hasn't popped any seals. I also found out that the velcro was installed in the factory on some models and it has a single throttle cable, separate choke cable going to the left TB and no junction box.

Do you guys want to see what I'm doing on this boxer? Is it ok to post this here? A lot of the drive stuff may be relevent.

So this thread is now a:

R1100RS Resurrection.

Got a bit done today, first up was a bit of a scrub up. There seemed to be mud in lots of places, not any more.



The front brake block seems to be a bit of an issue. This one was just a big ball of mud but I've seen a few photos on line of it being a big ball of rust. I have a roll of damp course for brickwork here someplace, I'm thinking to fold some of that around it. The lower fender will hold it under the block and the upper fender will hold the top of it. At least that puts a barrier in the way.

Also the forks need some attention. There's a lot of pitting/corrosion/dirt embedded in the front of them. A little hard to see it in this pic. Are these supposed to have a lacquered finish like the rear arm?
 


After the bath the paint on most of it was looking a lot better but the fairing is badly stone chipped so a respray is definitely on the cards.

 

I packed all the loose bits away and got the bike on the jack. Someone has been servicing this bike at least. The air cleaner is brand new, not a speck on it, also I see fresh white grease on the seat locks etc, that's a good sign.

The exhaust studs on the head will be an issue. One bolt at least is rounded off and others don't want to move. I side stepped that by pulling the muffler instead so I could get into the back end. I popped off the rear boot and oil came out :(Not a lot but some. Pulled the rear drive, there was blue loctite on the bolts so I got em hot and out they came.



There was some sort of white grease on the splines, and I mean was on the splines. It was completely thrown off and splattered around the swing arm. No oil was seen coming down the the arm from the gearbox so it must be coming from the final drive. Both bearing are stuffed and need to be replaced. Even the pins are showing a fair bit of wear on one side of each of them so I might do them too. I've put the final drive upside down in a vice so I can see how much fluid is leaking. If it's not a lot I'll leave it alone.

 

Other things I discovered, the front brake switch is always on and the master cylinder is leaking. I found a new piston for it in one of the panniers still sealed in a plastic bag :DThere is no battery strap and the battery tray appears to be held down with one bobin and nut so it will have to come out for a look. I'm guessing I'll have to take the lines off the ABS to do that? I have a BMW manual but the haynes manual is still in the mail.

The leak at the FD is probably the problem with the loctite used on assembly on the "sealing ring" (item 3 here):



The ring is steel and the expansion rate of the aluminium housing means that in high ambient temperatures oil can get past the threads. Here's how I know:



The above leak followed a very hot day following some trails crossing from France into Germany. It was a tiny amount, it looked worse than it actually was.

It was fixed under warranty and the BMW fix is to remove and refit using a silicon sealer instead of loctite. If it hadn't been under warranty I'd have just cleaned it and left well alone because it only loses a tiny amount of oil and it only happens in fairly extreme conditions.

The fork sliders always suffer pitting. I painted my mate's 1100GS sliders with Hammerite smooth silver, it's a good match and is fairly tough (the shaft housing and FD are powder-coated).



Header studs are likely to sheer. many 1100 models (with three studs, 1150s had two only) are running about happily with only one on each side.

I managed to sheer one on my 1150GSA: 



Luckily I was able to drill it out in place.

The wishbone arm of the tele-lever is powder-coated. If you run a finger along the underside you may find that it feels like glass paper. It's probably the worst finished thing on any BMW I've ever encountered. I whipped mine off after a few years as the coating had split on the underside, the steel was rusting and starting to lift the coating up the sides. I stripped the coating and painted it with an enamel.



Some people struggle to remove the wishbone. If you ever decide to whip it off, have a close look at the way the stud through the block works, it could save a lot of sweating, cursing and damage.

Cheers mike, some good news there. I rang the bm shop to line them up to replace the bearings for me. He also said to ignore such a small oil loss. It's been upside down in the vice for several hours now and there are zero drips so it's only weeping and only when it's running. Not an issue.

The whole front of this machine has been unloved. It's very ugly. I think I need to strip it, clean it and paint it as per your example. Thanks.

I'll ignore the exhaust studs, they might fix themselves

um ...shouldn't seal #4 and #2 stop this occurrence ?....or do seals also die a slow death (shrivel up ) like all rubber bits after 20 odd years
we see this pretty often on many k mono levers

No leaks at all from the final drive overnight so I'll ignore that oil that came out. 

But I just had to sort out the forks. I got lazy and left them on the bike but it worked ok. After a quick sanding to get the Kak off, I got a rattle can of Chrome colour and one of clear. $7 all up 





Between coats I had a bash at the exhaust. The top image is after a scrubbing with a stiff brush and degreaser and then soapy water.  The bottom is after about half a sheet of wet/dry sandpaper using soapy water. Gotta love that stainless steel, it'll last forever.






Also started the paintwork. Thank god for spray on putty. I'd never get all those stone chips out of the fairing without it. It's going to be cyan with a metal flake. When I priced a litre of the BMW black, they wanted $160 for it so rattle cans it is. This pic is only half uploaded, my website is as slow as death this evening, but it will all eventually get up there. Tip, never use Crazy Domains as a web host.

I forgot, I'm going to clear coat this colour. Should I sand the colour before the clear coat? 
I got 800 and 2000 grade on hand. The shop is out of stock of everything in between.


[edit]
Sorry found the answer. Don't sand metallic finished paint. 
But sand the clear coat with 2000 grade and buff/polish.

This paint business is taking forever. I sanded off the fairing ready for a cut/polish and rinsed off the sanding in the driveway and dropped the fairing :suspect: 

I had to sand back the damage and basically start again on that one. But as of today the last couple of bits have paint and need to dry before sanding/cut/polish.

I got the ABS/Motronic/Battery holder out and as I suspected all the bobbins holding it to the bike are toast. Looks like the brake lines were holding it in   Also someone thought it was a good idea to paint the holder with a paint brush while it was in the bike so there is a line of black paint running down from there all the way to the center stand.

I also pulled the starter motor and it has bent teeth all around the cog. Of course you can't buy a cog so I'll ignore that one for now, it was working. Maybe I can turn it over so they bend back the other way   When you pull the starter you can see the flywheel and clutch on this bike. Teeth on the flywheel look ok but the clutch group is rusty and the friction plate looks like it's sort of splitting in half each side of center, although it measures 6.5mm thick so is well within spec. I'm going to get 2 wheels on the ground and ride it before taking any action there, money is tight but it looks like the bike has been submerged at some stage.

And the BM shop has had the rear drive for over a week now and still has not replaced those bearings. I'm going to get it back and do it myself.

No pics sorry, the boy child is off to europe for 7 weeks and took my camera    I'll never see that one again I'm sure so I'll line up another camera.

The starters on these can be problematic. This may help you if you need to tear it apart:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207984

The same starter is used by some small French cars but check polarity, many rotate the wrong way but even so they can be a source of parts.

Cheers Mike.
I got a TB kit coming from romania.  I guess another 2 weeks for that one. But if I can get the rear end back on I can make it go.

I got a 30mm deep socket off ebay, I cut out a window in it with a angle grinder. I can now put a 12mm allen key in there.

This is for tensioning the paralever pivots without destroying the bearings.

I'm thinking  the K100 swingarm bearings need this as well.

I made one years ago:


 
Eight quid for the impact socket.

Oddly the paralever Ks don't seem to be as critical when it comes to the pivot pins. I believe it's to do with where the rear spring-strut mounts.

Upon recommendation from a bloke who knows, I didn't bother with any loctite on the pivots but used to whip them out once a year to grease the races. I never had an issue with them as a result.

That's the one, mine is no where near as neat. 

I think the paralevers use a different bearing which don't like to be too tight. 

I have no loctite here

I found a new cog for the starter, it's in the mail

http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/VALEO-Starter-Drive-BMW-R-Oilhead-p/d6ra-oildrive.htm

These guys have lots of odd bits for BMW's.

The Throttle Body kit arrived from Dan in Romainia today so straight into it.



First off strip the TB completely.



The BBS was coated in sticky kak. That can't be doing it much good at all.



So I cleaned everything as best I could. I used a tooth brush to apply Chemtech Blitz to the outside of the TB itself. 
It contains hydrofluoric acid so the rubber gloves are on for that bit, but it works well.



I used an easyout to grab the old bush, then a little heat to free it up and knocked it out using the old shaft.



Tap the new bush in to get it started then drive it home using a nut/bolt and the old bush.



Reassemble in reverse order and we are done. Almost as good as new.




The original had a nut holding the cable pulley to the shaft, he supplied a screw/washer to replace this for some reason. 
Also the o'ring he supplied for the BBS was too big and the one for the TB itself seems thinner than the original so I left the originals in place, they look fine. 

He also supplied 2 nuts which fit the screws inside the TB holding the butterfly to the shaft. They would point towards the engine and I don't want to fit them. I'll ask him why in an email. But job done and relatively painless.

I still hope you guys don't mind me posting this R1100 rebuild here. I found another camera obviously

Finished with paint, thank god, on with the mechanics. I ordered and paid for a haynes manual off ebay and thought I'd have it by now but ebay cancelled the sale and removed the seller   So no manual for me, I get to lodge a paypal claim instead. Welsh Scooter Sales, you scum. 



Did a bit of clutch research and rust on a clutch is pretty common on these so I'm going to split the bike and check it out after all.

It looks just so wrong doing this  But not that difficult.




I used my home made KBike locating pins for the gearbox. The bottom right dowel was rusty and it took some persuasion to get it free. Definitely didn't want to bend the clutch rod, but out it came eventually.




The rust on the clutch doesn't look as bad from this angle as it did through the starter motor hole. I can get the calipers in properly here as well and it measures 5.4mm so it's near new. Bloody dirty for a near new clutch. I see no wear on it's spline at all or any lubricant just lots of old clutch powder, they didn't clean it when they changed the clutch. I do see fresh marks on the flywheel teeth. I'm guessing the PO overfilling the oil by a lot has made the bike really hard to crank, bending the starter motor teeth which are now marking the flywheel teeth. I think I'll wait for the new starter cog to arrive before reinstalling the starter. I'll leave the clutch in the bike, I'll just clean it out, no oil anywhere  




The gearbox spline however shows the RBike wear pattern. Apparently the designers of the bike stuffed up and the clutch is about 12mm too far north of the gearbox so the splines don't fully engage. This applies to all RBikes. You'd think they would alter the clutch pack to fix the not seating issue. Almost half the spline doesn't engage the clutch, not good at all, I don't know how long this one will last. A very expensive fix that one.



So I'll just clean it all out, lub the splines and button it up. At least I know what condition it's all in.

Also the rear shock is toast. There's rust on the shaft very close to a split dust seal. Rad shock rebuilders have quoted $240 for a rebuild, rechrome and regas. I'll drop it over to them tomorrow. The front shock is looking ok so I'll leave that one till I ride on it. It may already have been rebuilt.